RogerH
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Posts posted by RogerH
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LPG
in Fuel System
11 minutes ago, Badwolf said:This is a serious, for once, question.
If cows produce methane, which is a problem, due to eating grass etc, and their digestion system is suited for eating vegetation. What will be the outcome, if humans all become vegetarians? I know what the outcome is like when eating sprouts or cabbage. Have there been any serious studies on the gaseous outcome of vegetarianism?
The methane that cows (ruminants) produce comes mainly from the mouth. Partly digested food fermenting in their bio-digester.
Once deeper inside towards the smelly end the methane reduces.
Humans are not ruminants and so do not burp up gases in any significant volume.
Roger
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Hi Folks,
the 'Green stuff' stick on anti squeal pads work very well.
The last set of actual brake pads were rubbish and I now use Ferodo FDS167 (TR4A) with no pad/shims/grease.
Roger
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Hi Colin,
TEX have a very good website with a great many mirrors.
https://texautomotive.com/product-category/mirrors/
Roger
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As a simple approach I would seriously look at the 'O' rings over the rear flange. According to the boys down under it works.
Roger
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Hi Colin
the earlier lip seal mod for the TR wet liner engines used the LandRover seal and required the crank to be ground down to suit the seal.
The Ferguson TE20 also had a lip seal 'way back when' and this didn;t require the crank grinding.
Fast forward to present day and the Christian Marx lip seal fits the 4 pot engines with NO grinding of the crank.
But !!! I bet the TR crank is a some what different size to a Spitfire etc.
There is also the Australian 'O' ring method. Fit two snugly fitting 'O' rings over the crank rear flange so they sit up against the scroll seal.
http://www.tr-register.com.au/Files/technical/scrollseal.htm
Any oil leaks keep the rings lubricated.
Roger
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Hi BC,
not sure how the Revo controller works but most of these would do what you want Switches
You need to power the fan through a relay. The relay then takes the BIG amps and the switch takes the small amps.
As you do not know what these switches are - are you happy working on electrics on your car !!!??
Roger
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14 hours ago, Peter Truman said:
Question, whats the engineering reason why Triumph would use such an odd ball thread, is the thread angle of the UNS thread such that it is less likely to come undone? Or only being a thin, 1/2 nut is the UNS thread structurally stronger.
Ref the Aus eBay sale as the offending die it’s local, I’m tempted to buy it to see how it actually runs down the steering shafts thread!The OD inhibit switch had this thread (5/8" 13tpi) . Prior to the WW2 metric threads on the continent were all over the place and not formalised fully.
But, how did they end up with a thread that didn't exist ANYWHERE. Possibly patent protection for the switch manufacturer
As mentioned - UNF have a better clamping effect due to their shallower thread angle. UNS is simply UNF in specialist situations.
Another oddity is the 5/16" stud (6 off) in the rear suspension trailing arms.
Everybody says it should be UNC. But NO!!! UNF with its low torque and clamping effect will work better
Roger
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13 hours ago, chrishawley said:
e. No idea where to get tap/die for that size.
Look at UNS
Roger
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Hi Folks,
my brain hurts. UNS is a normal thread form. It is designed for those special occasions.
9/16 X 28 tpi what is wrong with that.
There are dozens and dozens of thread forms - some used more than others.
The Overdrive switches (on the TR2-6) are 5/8" diameter X 13tpi if you look at every thread table in the universe it does not exist. But it does !!!
Most people use M16 X 2mm it fits. it works but it is wrong
Roger
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1 hour ago, PeteH said:
I saw that. But the website is "potentially compromised". So I declined to look. But the Australian E-Bay item suggests likewise. that UNS (special) sizes are "out there". I suspect they will be 60deg thread form?.
Pete
They are a standard (60 degree) UNF thread form but with a special TPI
Roger
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9/16" UNS can be 28tpi - look at the TRacy Tools webpage https://www.tracytools.com/taps-and-dies/brass-cycle-special?page=2
Roger
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Hi Ian,
I have a TR4A so bigger engine and GB+OD. I have removed the GB separate and also with the engine.
There is more work when you take all out the front but it is easier
In September I used a very low hoist to lift the GB out. I found removing the heater helped to put it all back.
None of this may apply to you. But, if your mechanic only wants £200 to do the job then let him go ahead and do it.
Just make sure that he knows what needs doing. On the TR4A it is usual to replace the taper pin on the clutch fork.
Roger
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Have you got a clear picture of the assembly.?
Roger
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37 minutes ago, bodger said:
Hi all what tyres are the ones I should fit on my mk11 Vitesse thanks
Not all tyres like all cars. Not all cars like all tyres.
I fitted Continentals to my TR4A and they squealed like a pig (just like in an American movie)
The car works well with Vredstein T-Track (cheap but ugly) or the Sport classic (nice looking but expensive)
I'm sure other Vitesse owners will guide you better.
Roger
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TSSC Pony Express - from one member to the next up country
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2 minutes ago, Chris A said:
, the coquilles St Jacques season has just started here in Normandy
Hmmm, yum yum
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3 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Just a small point / thought - can you get full-length bolts for these, where the bracket rests on the collar and not the threaded section? When I was rebuilding the TR7 the kit came with bolts that were to me unsuitable, the threaded section was through the bracket itself and I was concerned about rapid wear, so I sourced longer that were a more correct-looking fit.
Hi Colin,
I have an Aerospace background. The bolts we used had a length based on the shank.
So a 2" long bolt had a 2" long shank PLUS approx 1/2" thread.
In the Automobile world a 2" bolt includes the thread that could be 1" long. Very poor practice.
Roger
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Just a guess but would be so easy to sort on a jig and then install. This would suit the production line method.
Roger
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11 hours ago, sulzerman said:
I got a rotar arm at NEC classic car show couple years ago. Tried to fit, it was so tight on the spindle the plastic split.
Complete waste of money 💰☹️
Hi Paul,
with the dozens of choices to buy ignition parts from it is a minefield out there.
I would only ever buy from Martin Jay 'the Distributor Doctor' http://www.distributordoctor.com/
He does only quality stuff.
Roger
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Hi Pete,
don't know what surgery you have had but do take it steady. With the years ticking on recovery does take its time.
No point in putting back the recovery rate just to get the car sorted quicker than is needed.
Look after your self.
Roger
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Could you not weld a decent nut onto the round nut.
The heat would do it good as well.
Roger
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Hi Jeremy,
Firstly are you capable of doing engine work?
If not get your trusted garage to have a look to see the extent of the damage- there is wear and there is worn out !!!!
When you et the car back on the road it will reward you with daily smles from ear to ear.
I spent £25K on my TR4A rebuild in the 90's - was worth probably £12K when I finished bit over the last 23 years it has paid it back and a great deal more.
Roger
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12v Heater
in Cooling System
Posted
+1
read here for the TR project SPAL Fan
Roger