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RogerH

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RogerH last won the day on October 24 2020

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About RogerH

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  • Location
    West London Near Heathrow
  • Cars Owned
    It started with a Bond MkF and the last one was a Saab 9.3 with various TR;s along the way.

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  1. A small woodruff key will assist a well torqued taper to stay in place. A decent tensile load will support the thread run out by removing other unwanted loads. Good bye. Roger
  2. Hi Non-Member if the nut is simply holding the tapers together then why is the torque recommended to be so high. A mere 10lbft will do that - BUT the hub will soon fall off. According to other posts there is also a key in place. I shall take my many years of engineering experience and go read a comic Roger
  3. Hi Folks, A high torque MUST be placed on the nut in order to keep the shaft under a tensile load. If the torque is underdone it may allow flexing on the micro scale and cause failure. I would suggest the tensile strength of the thread run-our area is far in excess of the load required to strip the threads in the nut. I haven't a clue who manufactures your drive shafts but the 'repro' stub axles in a TR4A IRS as supplied by Moss are top quality. (I know yours are different). Your first port of call should be the garage as they will know what has been fitted. Roger
  4. Fawley Hill is a treasure - long may it remain so. Roger
  5. Hi Rich, what size holes do you punch/drill. The standard punch pliers does 3/16". I have found this is way too small and often produces a lump of weld that is not attached to the subsurface. I use 1/4" or even 5/16" on thick areas. Roger
  6. This works well - https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cfc100-1-tonne-folding-workshop-crane/ Roger
  7. If you have the bezel with 6 indents then you only need 3 nails. A nice piece of Manogamy or Oak would make it look the bees knees. Roger
  8. A typical small current 'thin walled' wire runs at about 11amps. Cables To be safe only put half the current through it So an 11amp (16/.020) would be happy with 5amps Your ignition White wires would be happy with this. Roger
  9. I make my own bezel tools. Requires a bit of turning/drilling/Knurling & milling but end up with a nice tool You could always use a round piece of wood. Use small nails trimmed to size. Easy. Roger
  10. My Reply was in error. I thought you were dismantling the rear hubs. Roger
  11. I think they are similar to the TR hubs. There is a simple 'Churchill' tool that separates the hub. Using any form of press may distort or even break the hub flanges. 'Enginuity' in Acton can do all this. Why are you taking te stubs out? Roger
  12. Have you considered using a servo to take the pressure off your leg. Roger
  13. A few years back I had to cut into a sill on a TR4A and found that the Waxoyl that I applied during restoration and re-coated every two years had come off the metal in sheets and the underlying metal was rusty. I now use Dinitol 3125 (also available in clear as #1000). This stays put. Roger
  14. Hi Rich, regarding small 'iffy' areas like in the heater box it is often better to cut out a bigger area as the welding is more controlled. Roger
  15. Hi Sandy, this may be a silly idea but here goes- Remove the sump. Assemble the top of the engine Pressurise the cooling system and look for water leaks underneath. Roger
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