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RogerH

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RogerH last won the day on October 24 2020

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  • Location
    West London Near Heathrow
  • Cars Owned
    It started with a Bond MkF and the last one was a Saab 9.3 with various TR;s along the way.

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  1. E10 will do nothing in the short term. However make sure that all your rubber is up to R14 for the long term. Roger
  2. RogerH

    Grease gun

    Hi Iain, the Wanner is the RollsRoyce of grease guns. Even if it did not work it would still be better than the rest. You'll never regret having a Wanner. Roger
  3. Hi Dave, 2.4mm 'head diameter' is very very small - do you mean shank diameter. (apprx 3/32") Roger
  4. Hi Dave , if you were using solid rivets then the material thickness to rivet length ratio is important. Pop rivets this ratio is less important as the rivet is not truly a structural fastener. However if you look at Pete's link then you may see that the rivet length is material T + the rivet shank O/D. EG using a 3.2 diameter rivet with 4mm of material then go for a 7mm long rivet or the next size up. You don't want to use a 20mm long rivet in 4mm of material. Roger
  5. Definitely a Renown in the rear window. - excellent car. Roger
  6. Hi Brian, have you had a look at the Moss webCat Bezels On the Spitfire Have a look also at the TR4/4A bezels. The problem is that even within Triumph there are very many different threads/sizes used. I have made a set for my 4A and now have the taps & dies. If you can supply the sizes you need I may be able to help. Roger
  7. Why why why go aluminium. The ONLY advantage is a slight weight saving. And unless you are racing the nuts off the car you do not need it. Aluminium does not cool as well as a decent original Copper rad. So if you need cooling why buy Aluminium. Cheap is the wrong reason to buy. Also, Why support the Chinese. Roger
  8. ....................just to do bi-coloured lines (red/white, green/blue etc) would be great to have. Roger
  9. Hi Folks, I am coming near to the end of my TR4 rebuild. The last few days I have been driving it to get the carburation sorted but found the rear brakes seizing on. Today I spent 3 or 4 hours investigating the rear near side. What I found was was bl**dy annoying. About 5 years ago during the rebuild I replaced the near side cylinder as it was leaking (I should have just replaced the seals). A ywar later I had to replace the offside also. Today I found that the cylinder was completely seized against the back plate. For the brakes to work correctly the cylinder needs to move freely back and forth. The cause ( I suspect) is that the cylinder has a groove down each side into which the captive plates sit. This groove is too narrow. Tomorrow I shall open the groove by apprx 0.020" - hopefully the cylinder will then float into a mid position and release the brakes. Why can't repro parts work first time. Roger
  10. Hi Paul, these boxes do get a lot of torque twisting and other forces so a raggedy hole like that isn't a good thing to have. You could drill it round and then tap it and insert a short screw. Roger
  11. Hi Folks, as an experiment I fitted these Night Eye LED's H4 LED's about 4 years ago. They are cheap and was expecting early failure - not so. The output power appears to have stayed the same I was not too keen on the bright white/silver illumination compared to the Philips/Osram warm/white glow. However they work well and are a direct fit into H4 holders. I keep the Osram's as spares If your dynamo or iffy alternator needs help then LED's are a good way forward. Roger
  12. TRacking down a bad Earth - it's between Venus and Mars and possibly getting worse. Roger
  13. Hi Dave, once you have rust coming through the Chrome you are looking at the end of the Chrome finish. The chrome particles sit on the surface of the parent metal like little islands and so moisture will easily get in and cause rust (which comes out) So, the platers put down a layer of Copper & Nickel. These are solid layers and should last many many years. However if rust appears then the Copper/Nickel has been punctured and can't be rebuilt without complete removal and re-plating. But, panic ye not!! You can remove the surface rust will stuff like DeOxC (this may be Citric or Oxalic acid based). When the surface is spotless apply a serious wax polish AND keep it polished. Roger
  14. RogerH

    Car cover

    Some interesting comments. Here in Hayes, near Heathrow, parking outside will get the car covered in all sorts of muck and the paint will suffer. The cover shown by JagNut is very kind to the paint work. Make sure it is reasonably anchored down to reduce flapping. Being breathable, you can put it on a wet car. I have done it many times with no issues and the car is always dry when I take it off. Roger
  15. RogerH

    Car cover

    Hi MIke, I have a cover with what looks like the same material. It is perfect for outside use - all year. Should last 3 or 4 years. Be careful it will puncture easily on sharp pointy things like aerials. If it fits the shape of your car all the better. Roger
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