Bigfella70

Thanks gents, back on it tomorrow. First off will try and get the oil pressure lamp working. Need to use the sharp probe on multimeter to work along the cable and try establish any break in the positive feed as it's not reaching the bulb holder. I'd rather repair the issue and get it right than just run another feed to the holder.

Rob that's interesting re overdrive as mine is fitted with a non overdrive gearbox ! Wonder if is was originally an overdrive car that's been retro fitted with a non o/d gearbox at some stage ?

Doug, Just checked and the VIN is KE231690 registered mid October 1973. Regards. Dave

Thanks all. My car was registered in October '73 and is the later non rotoflex version. Will have a look and see what's still there! Good new is that I am getting TSSC membership as a birthday present imminently from my lovely wife so looking forward to joining the club and putting something back hopefully !

Thanks gents, I will refer to the wiring diagram again and I've removed the loom tape between the bulkhead and alternator / distributor so will look out for the ballast wire and also test the coil with my meter to confirm the type fitted. I need to spend some time tracing / cleaning earths and will unplug the flasher unit which I've found under the drivers side dash and test with 12v / earth for operation. The interior lamp does work via the boot and passenger door switches and also the dash switch. All the door switches have been rewired with more blue cable (!). The drivers door switch has a broken (blue) wire sticking out from the a post and I've traced back to the ends nearby of what I believe to be the original twin purple and white cables from the loom. Will test these for 12 volts then reconnect to the door switch which I understand "earths" the circuit to bring the courtesy lamp on. Horn wise there are two very ropey looking units which I've removed from the car. One was not connected but two loom feeds dangling nearby (drivers side). The passenger side horn had spurious leads connected and guess what......a blue cable which I've traced back to the horn push (aftermarket steering wheel). I will study the diagram and try trace original wires and the horn relay. Again I suspect someone has hastily bypassed original wiring and relay to jury rig a horn for a past MOT! I will order replacement horn units and try to rewire per original spec. To test the horn push I suppose I could connect a test lamp / meter to the wire , then touch onto positive battery side and see if operating the horn push completes the circuit. I think the horn relay is on the bulkhead next to the hazard flasher. Reversing lamps wise I have spotted more dreaded blue cable running under the bulkhead and transmission tunnel. I have a replacement plastic tunnel to fit so can hopefully see more once the original is removed and diagnose the issue. I'm referring to the oil pressure warning lamp that's defective. The HRW lamp illuminates when switched in and the ignition switch operates fine in terms of feeds and cranking / ignition. Car starts and runs readily. The aux position 1 feed wire had pulled off and had been hacked into for a now disused soldered on cable possibly from an old radio fitment. I removed the padded surround and back cover from the switch and can see all the cables connected. It seems there is no live feed to the oil lamp bulb holder with the ignition on number 2. I have removed and tested the bulb on 12v which lights up fine. Probe into the bulb holder and to earth produces no voltage reading. So I seem to have an issue between the ignition feed and bulb holder. The ignition warning lamp which I believe originates from the same feed (ignition switch terminal 3) works fine. I'm suspicious of the blue cable described in my post above running from ignition switch terminal 3 to the solenoid terminal shared with white / yellow feed running to positive coil side! I guess that I could piggy back a feed from ignition terminal 3 to the oil lamp bulb holder and if the earth and sender are working this should restore an oil pressure lamp. However I would like to get things back to original. I might have to try unravel some of the loom under the drivers side from the oil lamp bulb holder and see if I can find a break. Given the presence of spurious wires I would quite like to replace the relevant sections with the proper colour wiring. The loom is otherwise in good condition and doesn't warrant going to the lengths of full replacement. Could anyone recommend a supplier where I could order some ad hoc lengths of different colour cable to match the original loom where necessary? As strange as it may sound I'm really enjoying this! Thanks for the tips and advice..... Regards. Dave.

Quite a productive day today, slow methodical progress! Purchased some 35 amp fuses from nearest auto store (Halfords) and swapped the old 15 amp middle fuse (side lamps, number plate lamp and instrument lighting). Fortunately all back on line although I noticed the Halfords fuse caps are slightly slimmer than the previous item hence had to squeeze in the contacts further to snug the fuse in. I then set about testing the oil pressure lamp circuit. Basically no live feed at the bulb holder. There is a nest under the drivers side where someone in the past has hastily wired some circuits all in the same blue wire! E.g. I have a spurious blue wire from the solenoid terminal shared with the white / yellow coil feed wire running direct to the ignition switch terminal 3 shared with the white wires. On the diagram this ignition terminal feeds off to the alternator and ignition warning lamp, oil pressure lamp circuit, and ballast resistor. Not sure what the purpose of this spurious wire is, will have to give it some thought but would welcome any suggestions! Also a blue wire running to the brake lamp switch from as yet unknown origin. Additionally there are blue wires running to the door courtesy switches and I note a blue wire from the back of the rev counter leading off to the rear of the car. Not had chance to follow that one up and see where it leads yet! When checking the rear lamps the now infamous blue cable has been put to use on the rear lamp clusters. I guess at some stage someone has hastily bypassed a wiring fault. Im currently identifying and labelling wires and trying to trace there routes and purpose. Faults still present are as follows: Defective reverse lamps Defective horn Defective oil pressure gauge Indicators not flashing (but do lluminate solid) Hoping to get a few hours in on Saturday, hints and tips welcome. I'm actually enjoying steadily tracing and sorting this out!! Regards. Dave.

Thanks Doug, I'll look into an upgrade for the mid term future. Will initially try and get everything back working with the factory set up (I've actually made things worse by removing fuses and cleaning contacts) ! Did notoce that the cap of the 15amp fuse was turning when handled which can't be good! First job will be to replace the three fuses then check all electrical items so I can list what is and isn't working then do some methodical checks to try tie down what's wrong. When you mention the diagram has wrong naming of fuses please could you clarify if they are just mixed up positions or more complex. I'm assuming the diagrams are reliable . I have a Haynes and copy factory manual but the colour diagram is so simple to follow...

Thanks gents, I have got a copy of that wiring diagram printed out in the garage to try help! Interesting re the fuses mis named which I will take into account! The oil lamp bulb I have tested on a 12v feed and its fine. Tried earthing the sender wire but no joy. So I guess the fault is with the wire from the sender to bulb or with the positive side feed to the bulb holder. I think I'll try and get hold of some new fuses for good measure and replace the old ones. I guess it's a bit of trial and error with the contacts to try and get them all into play.....

Evening folks, Ive commenced work recommissioning my GT6 today which included carefully removing a spurious electric fan (wired live to battery minus any relay or inline fuse)! My hazard lights were inoperative along with the oil pressure lamp (bulb tested out ok and I earthed the sensor lead with no sign of lamp illumination). Hence a couple of questions if you don't mind! I removed the three fuses, cleaned the contacts, closed them up a little and refitted the fuses. I seem to have 2x 35 amp and 1x 15 amp which I think is wrong and all three should be 35amp fuses. Unfortunately after the above work in the fuse box my side lamps, numbr plate lamp and instrument illumination are not working. Im assuming an issue with the fuse connection but despite "wiggling" the fuse no joy so far in restoring my lights. Will have another look tomorrow but would welcome suggestions. I had a similar issue with the fuel gauge packing up along with heated rear window and wipers. Removing and refitting the top fuse restored wipers and fuel gauge but not the heated rear window. The car does still start! Also any pointers to troubleshoot the defective oil pressure lamp? I have a meter and lots of patience! Lastly could anyone please help me identify the two units in the photo below, situated to the left of the battery. They look like a relay or flasher type unit to me. An enjoyable day with a few minor snags to work through!!

Wayne, Thanks for that, York would be much better in fact so North Yorks group seems the way to go. Will see if I can get in the FB page. Cheers! Dave.

Haha this is just the best forum, where else can you go from a GT6 to dairylee, strawberries and tarts (!). Im looking at joining up TSSC and have put a note in the regions section to enquire who and what's out there in North and West Yorks areas as I'm on the border. Hoping to get some time in on the car later this week, drivers door handle to fix and some spurious wiring I'd like to tidy up ahead of sorting lazy hazard and indicators (suspect flasher units, dodgy connections or earths). Enjoy the cheese !!!

Hi folks, just looking into joining TSSC having acquired a 1973 GT6 for recommissioning. I'm right on the North / West Yorks border and wondering if either or both areas have active sections and details of local meetings etc. Following the links on the club website it seems West Yorks may have a meeting in the Driglington area but can't see any details re North Yorks which may be more local to me. Just sussing out who and what's out there as I'd like to get involved! Cheers. Dave.

Thanks gents, much appreciated! The garage location in the initial photos isn't mine unfortunately, it's the location where I viewed the car so I could have a good poke around with it on the ramp. Just been tidying my own garage which is car and a half size with plenty of room to work on the GT6. Recently completed a building project so have lots of tools and kit to sort and tidy away. Will definitely look into insurance valuation. Interior wise I'm not usually keen on non standard retrims however this was completed some 20 years ago when the car was restored and I think the colour really works with the green bodywork and walnut veneer dash. She's a non overdrive car which doesn't phase me as I understand top gear ratios to be similar with the different spec final drive. I'm keen on retaining the steel wheels as I think they really suit the Mk3. Hoping to get stuck into some initial / investigative jobs next week. Updates to follow!!

Morning all, Just a quick introductory thread as I'm new to the forum. My Triumph history comprises a 1974 early Spitfire 1500 in 1986/7 then an ex US TR6 running a 2500 S engine on twin SU's in 2011/12. Wish I had kept both! Ive owned and enjoyed a few classics over the last 30 odd years however found myself drawn towards a Mk3 GT6. Cars available seemed to span between basket case partially stripped / abandoned restorations or top end of the price scale cars advertised. Some of the top end vehicles are extremely nice however I was seeking the elusive in between that was basically a solid and together car that I could improve and enjoy. Last week a scan of cars for sale on the web bore fruit and I am now the proud owner of an emerald green late (non rotoflex) Mk3. Subject of restoration in the late 90's and very solid, my objective is to go through essential / safety items and present for professional inspection at a classic car au fait garage or voluntary MOT test despite being exempt. The MOT process is not bad value for an independent inspection in any case. Emphasis will be on safety and usability. Just in the process of re arranging my garage / tools and creating a new workbench. Hence to date a quick wash and vac and look over is all that's happened. Have taken delivery of a replacement gearbox tunnel cover and some service items all ready to get started. Photos show on day of purchase then after a quick clean up! Regards. Dave.

Looks stunning ! Very worthwhile project, looking forward to following this thread !

Fantastic thread! Really enjoying reading this from the beginning. Just joined the forum having acquired a 1973 Mk3 GT6 in need of some TLC and a little recommissioning. Previously owned a Spitfire 1500 back in '86 and a TR6 on twin carbs in 2012 which I wish I'd kept! Have tried creating a thread in the introduction section however haven't been successful (may be to do with the format on my iPad) but will keep trying! Looking forward to following progress on this one, great work all round !!!