PaulBSpit1500

I have read several bad reports from amateurs who have used products to coat the tank and it’s been a horrible failure. The paint not adhering and flaking away. One report of a company stopping offering the tank refurbishment service due to flaking paint. So I will not be going down this route. DEOX-C to remove what is left of the rust then reinstall the tank and top up with petrol. I just hope the rust removal process does not expose any further issues, pinholes in the tank?

Cleaned out my Spitfire 1500 fuel tank and this was the result, the five pence piece for comparison purposes only. I am hoping this was the cause of my fuel blockage that brought me to a stop on the A40 after driving some ten miles. When I disconnected the fuel line after the fuel pump and turned her over no fuel came spurting out. Took the top of the fuel pump and turned her over and the diaphragm was pumping ok. Disconnected the fuel line before the fuel pump and got a little dribble of fuel then nothing, I can understand that due to the fuel pick up system from the tank. I’m thinking or is that hoping that the pick up pipe in the tank got blocked. Poked all the lines through with strimmer chord and they are clear. I have ordered some DEOX-C, £16.75, to kill any rust in the tank, a new tank £286.01. Why the penny ? Also going to change the old rubber fuel lines for the new barricade fuel lines. So after filling with some high octane fuel, a carb clean and timing check I hope there are no more breakdowns for a while. Any comments ?

I had a poor card and decided to trace the outline onto a sheet of thin ply and cut it out. The sheet needs a bit of flex to it so used hardboard. A rattle can of mat black on both sides and edges, I was pleased with the results. The light fitting is a dismal excuse and I’m thinking of re-engineering to accept a better led solution.

Had some issues driving the spitfire on a very hot day when she just stopped after showing symptoms of an electrical fault, ie under load loss of engine power and then dying, happened after I had driven some fifteen miles. Manage to get her going again after some twenty minutes after looking at fuel, no issues and fiddling with electrical connections reseating them. Electronic ignition all ok. The coil was extremely hot, and I mean hot, too hot to touch. Got to the TSSC meeting after another fifteen miles without incident but the coil was again to hot to touch. Same thing happened on the way home after fifteen miles or so she died with the same symptoms as before, got her going again and onto the drive. So I got a new Accuspark Sport 1.5 ohm ballast coil as a start to try and resolve the problem thinking the coil may be an issue as others at the TSSC meeting had suggested. When I measure across the contacts it shows 2.2 ohms not 1.5 ohms. So does it go on the car and if so what is the effect of this coil being over the 1.5 ohms. It has been suggested by he who shall rename nameless that these extra ohms may increase the spark hence the “sport” reference. All answers gratefully received. Paul B

Hi Pete, yes the spacer went back.

Thanks for the advice guys. Pete penny mod done. New needles installed. Mathew flow meter used as shown. Plugs sooty. Off for one last try using your advice, maybe I’m just being fussy.

Indeed there is, not sure if I can afford his rates. 😊

Hi all, Getting more and more frustrated trying to tune my 1500 1977 Spitfire, HS4 carbs. Does anyone out there know of a mobile tuning mechanic that could set these up. Car currently in Uxbridge. Paul

Thanks Colin Paul

Hi Roger, Thanks for the offer, too late I’m afraid I’ve already ordered a set. Paul

Hi All, Where is the best place to get ABT needles for my SUs on my 1977 1500 spitfire. I found them for around £18 each, anyone know a better place where I can get them? Paul ( tight-fisted ) Brown

This is the location on my spitfire for the hazard warning switch. Pain in the arse tightening up the slotted nut on to the thread of the switch with a pair of long nosed pliers. I made a tool shaped like a H, made the job soooo much easier. Paul

Such a traumatic event erased from my memory, you were probably teasing me and deserved it 😂 to be honest I never recall Dad belting either of us. PB

Dougbgt6 Cheek, puny indeed but a cockpit allowing wind in your hair and open to the sunshine. As for your stuff, never broken any of it , nothing you have I require except for you help and knowledge on occasional topics which is very much appreciated. Now as for borrowing I recall loaning you the engine oil drainer and on its return there was the missing pipe! “I don’t have the pipe I gave it to you back” the pipe that was later found by you several days later on top of your kitchen microwave! 🤭 PB

Thinking of buying a CTEK device to connect to the spitfire over the winter leaving it connected and turned on during the winter period to keep the battery “ ticking over “ . But which one 3.8 or 5.0 ? Anyone have any valid comment or experience using these? Paul

Hi Olpie, Ok, here most of the time, just let me know if and when via a PM.

Hi Olpie, Restored my 1977 spitfire which included replacing the fuse box, well worth the effort. Rewiring the headlights so the switch did not take all the current going through it when the lights were on plus several other mods. Happy for you to come over for a socially distant chat. Currently based in Uxbridge not far away from Ruislip. Paul

The very same, but I’m the younger good looking one!

There seems to be some debate on the WWW as to the legality of fitting LEDs to cars not originally fitted with LEDs. Discuss.

The boredom of self imposed house arrest has finally kick in and the long delayed new replacement spade fuse box finally saw the light of day today. It was not meant to but the fitting of the oil pressure gauge required the removal of the glove box and wooden fascia to drill a recessed hole exposed the wiring challenging me. So battery out, glove box removed, fascia on the bench waiting for the new veneer and decided now was the time to install the new fuse box as well. Old fuse box prised of the car showing the wiring behind. Deep breath and decided I needed a cup of tea and a call to my brother Doug who has done this replacement on his GT6.

Happily bobbing along after fiddling with the carbs, all other issues sorted for the MOT retest and then all hell breaks loose. One horrendous bang. I honestly thought the rear suspension would be spread all over the road. 400 yards away from home and recovering from double heart bypass I was not pushing the bugger home. The recovery waggon came and went, can't get it on his recovery wagon, another two hours later another recovery wagon and she was home. Stripped down the next day, now to get the bits to fix. Thanks to all for the tips on where to go. It will pass the MOT. Paul

Triumph Spitfire 1500 strut installation Feb 2019 The offer from Moss for a bonnet lifting kit under £80 and Christmas money burning a hole in my pocket proved to be a no brainer. The kit arrived a couple of days later and the package was eagerly torn apart. The A4 instruction sheet was easy to understand however I made a modification to the installation by adding a load bearing support bracket more of that later. Before starting make sure the metal bonnet is located correctly and the cones adjusted appropriately. There are two lower supplied fixing brackets that fit into the radiator housing recess, the drivers side bracket has a smaller offset from the housing than the passenger side bracket. The existing bolt in the housing is removed, Moss suggested that this is used to secure the new bracket, I used a new bolt, lock nut and the supplied clipped washer. Install the ball stud in the bracket with the ball pointing to the outside of the car using the supplied washers and nut, which is then pushed into place. As for torque settings, my brothers nick name for me, gorilla hands, say no more, so as tight as you feel appropriate, but tight. With the lower bracket installed the bonnet fixing is next using the supplied ball stud however the fixing to the bonnet used just an oversize washer and nut but this seemed under engineered. So off to my 2mm steel sheet and I fabricated a large support bracket that fitted on the road side of the inner wing, this can be seen as the black triangular shape, this was bolted onto the wing with the Moss supplied fixing and a new bolt with the head ground down, to ensure strut clearance when the bonnet is closed, with a washer and lock nut using the existing hole in the inner wing. New fabricated bracket. Ground down bolt head to allow for strut clearance. The thick end of the strut was now fitted to the bonnet ball stud as per the instructions, prise the spring clip back with a small screwdriver to allow the location of the socket onto the ball. However a problem became evident, the strut when connected to the lower ball stud will foul the breather pipes to the carburettors filter. Moss make no mention of this so the pipes have to be moved. Using the existing fittings and relocating the the pipes seems to work, a new bolt, washer and locking nut was used and the pipes had a cable tie to secure them together. Old pipe location. New pipe location using old bracket and new nut, bolt, washer and spring washer and cable tie. Use of existing spacer. View from above. The lower strut was connected, the bonnet needs to be slightly lifted to get the connection to fit. When connected the bonnet will now stay up by itself. The bonnet stay can be removed and the passenger side strut can then be installed as per the drivers side. The difference is in my opinion well worth doing and certainly makes the lifting and closing of the bonnet so much easier with little effort and the removal of bonnet twist, just remember not to let the bonnet drop when closing but let it down slowly. A little costly for some but a significant improvement and I would recommend the modification, however I'm not sure about this modification for a fibreglass bonnet. Paul