Darren Groves
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Posts posted by Darren Groves
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They overlap as in the second photo.
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Your closest Triumph Specialist is only in Corby, see here: http://www.jigsawracingservices.co.uk/contactus.htm
Or use these drawing to check positioning of the outriggers: Chassis Drawings
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Double check your wiring where the control box used to be:
1. The thin black earth cable is not needed and can be disregarded.
2. The thin Brown/Green & thin Brown/Yellow cable should be joined, this is the connection between the small field terminal on the Alternator and the dash warning light.
3. This should leave you with 5 thicker cables, 2 x Brown/Blue (Lights), 1 x Brown/Yellow (Alternator) & 2 x Brown (Solenoid & Horn), these need joining together.
Every Lucas ACR Alternator I've ever worked with has only has 3 terminals on the back, the 2 larger ones (3/8") which feed back to the battery, and one smaller (1/4") which goes back to the warning light on the dash. You should be able to use a standard Lucas connector like this one:
The additional wire is to do with the output of the alternator. The standard wire on a Herald loom will only be good for 25amp, so if the alternator has a greater output then use the second large terminal to run another cable back to the battery.
To test the Alternator you could start the car without the alternator connected and connect a multi-meter to each of the terminals, if you get a reading of 12v or more then you know it's charging.
Hope that helps.
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Depends what thermostat you have fitted. Needs to be set a few degrees above the opening temp of the stat, but you might want to tweak a bit once you have it in use.
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There's a simple calculation when decided what rated cable and fuse to use on any electrical installation, Watt divided by Voltage, therefore if your fan was say 120w, divided by 12v gives 10amp (in reality you'd probably want a 15amp), if it were on a 24v installation then it would be 5amp, you get the idea.
There are definitely 2 camps on whether electric fans are a good modification or not. I went to electric, but have now gone back to mechanical. There's an interesting article on the Canley's website:
http://www.canleyclassics.com/technical-archive/overheating
Personal choice at the end of the day.
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I have the same tyre on 4.5j steel wheels, though I believe 165's are better suited to 5j, 6j sounds a bit too wide really. There is a selection of useful utilities on this website: http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/ however it's not actually working at the moment, but keep trying. Fitting the same size tyre on a different width wheel does affect the rolling radius, so even though we have the same size tyre the rolling radius will differ, which of course affects your speedo reading.
Tracking should be set with all for seats loaded with around 70/75kgs. If you search this forum it has been explained by our resident guru Pete Lewis....
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Gorilla glue
I have some of that!
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Can anyone recommend a good glue to attach the P-Seal on the screen frame (the seal between the screen frame and quarter light). Can't remember what I used last time but it didn't work very well....
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You need to get in contact with John Bonnett, you can see the thread here: http://forum.tssc.org.uk/index.php?/topic/9-aluminium-bodied-gt4/page-6&do=findComment&comment=2853
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There are many similarities, but not everything. I normally use Canleys website to check part numbers, which you could then cross reference across the various models.
Personally I have always found Moss very expensive (as are Rimmers) and never even consider them unless I cannot source elsewhere. If the cost of p&p is your deciding factor on where to buy parts then you may find purchasing from Canleys or James Paddock or similar may save money even if you are paying their p&p costs. James Paddock do free shipping on orders over £10.00 and are always competitively priced.
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I use 165/70/13 and they fit fine, very close rolling radius to original crossply tyres.
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When you re-torque you should slacken each nut off slightly, don't start from its originally torqued position.
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I am actually looking at either Nodiz or mega jolt (any prefeences? )
Can't say as I'd never heard of Nodiz. MJ is well documented on the web, everything you need is available from Trigger Wheels or you can source the Ford items via eBay or breakers.
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Would suggest a mapped ignition in the future, or now if possible.
Fit Megajolt, you won't regret it.....
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Monthly meetings for North Devon start on 7th May, if your close enough to get there, we'd love to see you!
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I was surprised to see Ed making this short of claim in the series.
I wouldn't be, the guy is an irritating numpty......
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I doubt very much if they changed the steering column support through production. Apart from the obvious differences between saloon & convertible, the only other difference I know of are the spacings for the wiper wheelboxes.
I presume it's the Y shaped support bracket that is causing the problem? I can't remember if this is reversible or not, but have you tried flipping it over.
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Get the drain removed from the replacement tank, nobody dare open them anyway as you'll end up snapping it off, without it it's really easy to fit/remove. Most radiator places will do petrol tank repairs and should be happy to blank off the hole. I done it myself, but not really recommended.....
I put a large grommet in the hole in the boot floor, though you could choose to do something a little more permanent.
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Order direct from www.autosparks.co.uk and save yourself some money
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It's still on the road....sorry, doesn't help much. You could try contacting Phil Willson (13/60 Register Secretary), he may know of it.
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Thanks.
So is the oil burning on start up likely to be caused by leakage into the cylinders through the valve guides?
And if so what is the solution? Replacing the valve guides?
Yes & Yes.....
Whilst the head is off worth checking it has been converted to unleaded, if not get hardened valve seats fitted (exhaust only).
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Thanks Clive. I was leaning towards making my own, think that's the way to go.
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I'm in the middle of a some remedial work on the Herald, mainly replacing the rusty wheelarches. I also decided to remove all the sills and valances as driving on the muddy Devon roads has taken its toll, and I was really quite surprised at how much mud had been thrown up underneath the car, particularly into the rear valances.
I don't think I've ever seen mud flaps on a Herald or Vitesse (not that I've ever particularly looked), so wondered if there's anyone that has fitted them and if they look OK and actually work. The ones available from the usual traders (below) don't really look like they'll fit too well.
Any thoughts?
Chassis Strengthening
in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
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During a chassis rebuild, is there any reason to try and strengthen in any way? I know Chic Doig does heavy duty siderails, but is there anything else worth doing? Just an idle thought....