Darren Groves
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Posts posted by Darren Groves
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You can try here: https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/browse/triumph/triumph_vitesse but how accurate it is and the level of detail you want may not be great.
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What came out of the gaiters didn't look like PAS fluid, but the car has been unused for years so maybe just gone a bit weird.
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Any particular oil/grease to lubricate a Stag steering rack?
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I've already got a filter in place but that's on the pipe leading into the first carb. If I fit a second filter as Darren suggest, I'm assuming I just cut the pipe coming out of the tank and then put the new filter in place with union clips?
This is how I've done mine.
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If you move the tank around you will disturb sediment, but as long as you have a decent fuel filter fitted it should be fine. I have a chrome/glass cleanable filter on the rubber pipe in the boot on the fuel pick-up, this stops any debris as soon as it leaves the tank so protects the fuel pump as well as the carbs and is easily accessible for cleaning.
In addition you could take the opportunity whilst the tank is out of draining and cleaning, www.frost.co.uk sell various products to clean, prep and even seal the tank if you feel the need.
The second article that Casper has linked to is mine, I can't tell you how much easier it is to remove & refit the tank without the drain plug. If you get carried away and decide to have the drain removed, be very careful. There are obvious risks in welding fuel tanks so give it to a professional if you're the slightest bit unsure, mine hadn't had fuel in it for a very long time so decided it was safe, but even so I was still a little nervous when doing it.
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Steve,
Take off your door card and take a look at the 3 screws that hold the mechanism in place (the part the handle connects to), the 3 holes in the mechanism are slotted so if the whole thing has slipped forward it won't be operating the lock fully. Loosen the screws, pull the mechanism backwards, tighten screws and try again. This happens to my drivers door fairly regularly.
Worth a try.
Darren
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I always used NGK BP6ES, then changed to NGK BPR6ES after Megajolt was fitted.
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Thanks Pete
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I am in the process of rebuilding a pair of HS4's, unusually they still have their identifying tags on and they are AUD665 spec, which according to the Burlen website are standard jet type (not waxstat). The rebuild kits for these have a standard throttle disc, but the ones in there currently are different (as photo).
Is this butterfly from a Waxstat spec carb and presumably it won't matter if I fit a standard throttle disc?
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James Paddock sell a tool for this job: http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/parts.aspx?searchtext=tool
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Hi John D, thanks for the reply, you got me thinking
(i think this is a puzzled face?) how long is too long for the bolt to the rear of the head? I've noticed there is two copper washers on it and wondering if the idiot who owned it before has put a longer bolt in! In my mind when I removed it I did think it seemed long or the possibility it might be long, mine has 10mm of thread past the copper washer, any idea if this is too long?The bolt should a 5/16" x 1/2", so if you have 10mm past the washer, sounds about right.
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Decompression Plates: http://www.ferriday.co.uk/decompression-plates/
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All I can think to do is fit a second head gasket to lift the head a little and reduce the compression pressure thought it won't drop it to standard. Either that or a new short engine, and I don't suppose one of those is available.
I wouldn't fit two head gaskets, recipe for earlier failure if it works at all. There is a company that sell specially made plates to reduce compression ratio but can't seem to find them on the web at the moment, will keep looking. Higher compression will be down to the head being skimmed heavily over the years, so it would be that what would need changing not the short engine.
Any good engineers should be able to measure the depth of the head to give an indication of how much has been taken off in the past, you'd need to take it off of course.
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The £2574 is for a full engine, a short engine (block section only) isn't an option from the club shop. On page 6 you can buy just a cylinder head.
All the club shop engine/head options are for reconditioning your own unit, not exchange (except 1500).
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on the PDF it says
2.5Pi/2500/TR250/TR5/TR6 £2574
so if i m member there is an extra 20% discount on that ?
The pdf is the price to members, you'd pay more if a non-member.
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That's where the TSSC engines come from I believe.
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sorry i know it s stupid question but, what is club engines ? tx
Engines supplied by the TSSC - http://www.tssc.org.uk/tssc/uploaded_files/2015%20TSSC%20Club%20Shop%20Catalogue.pdf - see page 5
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Easy job, though I've always done it with the gearbox out of the car, but from memory access should be fine after removing gearbox tunnel.
Remove prop, take out split pin, undo castellated nut, remove flange and prize out the seal and replace with new one....
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I used the blue Polybush kit, which used to be sold by the Club Shop, fitted some years ago now but still fine. No idea if Superflex is better or not I'm afraid, but happy with what I had.
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2 days to until the next North Devon club night......
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Have a read of this:http://www.canleyclassics.com/technical-archive/the-d-type-overdrive
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Thanks i don't need to take it off it's for when i do the tappets. Many thanks.
Ah, ok......one of these is a cheap tool for the job: http://r.ebay.com/BtS1LI
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I'll PM you later about them....
(i think this is a puzzled face?) how long is too long for the bolt to the rear of the head? I've noticed there is two copper washers on it and wondering if the idiot who owned it before has put a longer bolt in! In my mind when I removed it I did think it seemed long or the possibility it might be long, mine has 10mm of thread past the copper washer, any idea if this is too long?
sorry--vibration again
in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
Posted
Engine mounts and/or gearbox mounts could be knackered. Try disconnecting the flanges and rotating each end of the propshaft a half turn, try every combination. Not sure why this would work on a newly balanced prop, but it can and did for me.