Iain T

Good thinking but no it's so thin it's stamped Durex.....

I've been tempted for some time but my rad (only 5 years old) seems to cope well when paired with the high flow 12" Spal fan.

Inspected the rad neck and with the overflow outlet it's not possible to lower. The best solution is to cut the horizontal face off the rad mounting brackets and reweld to gain a few millimeters. Cheaper as well as I can do that myself! This I hope will stop the tinny rattle at high revs🤞 As to body gaps, lines and fit I need to slow down and have a long think before I dive in. Iain

That may be possible for the engine but you'll fry!

You need to "chill out"......... Some of the custom properly fabricated rads are nearly £500. It does seem a lot but when you think of the work involved and how long they last? Iain

What about a better core to existing rad? Iain

Would that then make your car a male or non gender specific😂 I'll phone Aaron Radiator tomorrow to ask if they can help. Iain

What idiot thought putting a straight 6 in a Herald was a good idea! It sounds silly but if I can't drop the rad I could get a shorter neck fitted. Iain

Or weeks in my case! I'll take it slow n steady. I have to move car spaces tomorrow so lots of Triumph stuff to move and hide from the concierge police..... Iain

I'll take a look as I also want to raise the valance by around 6mm Iain

How about a cod piece power bulge in the bonnet? I think it may effect the resale😂 It must be the Bastuck rad having a different dimension from the cap to mount bracket Iain

Thanks Joseph and Johny, I'll make some wedges and if necessary ask a neighbour to help. There doesn't seem to be much play in the hinge pin it's just not set correctly by the PO. I'm definitely going for the modifying rad bracket route as I can't move the rad back or angle any further and it still touches. Iain

If the door was a clock face I want to rotate clockwise a couple of minutes and vertically up 2-3mm. The door doesn't need to move outward. Never having set a Triumph door before I was hoping to only adjust the hinge/A pillar joint not the hinge/door. Iain

Another head scratching day yesterday. The door rear to quarter gaps are fine but both doors would benefit from moving vertically up 2-3mm and possibly the nearside bottom hinge being shimmed to rotate the angle so the rear top of the drop glass is more parallel with the roof. So is there enough play in the three hinge/A pillar bolt holes to raise and angle the door or do I need to shim the hinge/door? This won't solve the rad cap issue which I'm still thinking about. Perfect solution is to remove the rad (I need drain to change the antifreeze anyway) and cut and weld the rad bracket say 5mm lower. Iain

At cross purpose the what you call links aren't welded the bonnet pivot bracket is welded to the chassis. I also want to check if the pivot spacer tube is fitted.

A good result so far well done! You have a Aldon electronic ignition which is really Pertronix and a very good bit of kit and made my tick over etc much smoother. The final tweaks may just be carb setting and using at least super grade fuel. I use Tesco Momentum which is 99 octane. Like Ian my ignition is set to 10-12 BTDC (I just loose the 13 degree white line mark under the pointer). Iain

The suspense!! Do tell..... Dizzy drive slot orientation can't be the problem it only makes the body in an odd or unable to rotate position. My distributor is with 10 degrees advance about 90 degrees anti clockwise to yours but then I have a Lucas. Iain

I'm still to be convinced, yes I can be stubborn but in the nicest possible way 😂. Our engines like a bit of black round the plugs and deep tan electrodes. If they look a bit paisty the mixture is too lean. I can't wait for the next installment! Iain

Pete, to help is there a factory amount of turns from flush for a basic setting? My money is on fuel/carbs and not cam timing.....but a useful learning curve! Advancing the ignition and slightly higher tick over has compensated for very weak mixture. Anyone want a 10p bet? Iain

I may have exaggerated slightly...

Have faith🙏

It is natural to suspect cam timing and I'm sure now you've corrected the minor error it will be better. I can only relate my experience which given the head etc required a lot more fuel and timing wasn't the problem. If you lack power after getting it back together try turning the carb adjuster half a turn and ignition at 13 degrees. I think you have a Mk2 which if your engine is standard has 6AC needles.

OK a curve ball which may be a load of rubbish. In the search of 500bhp and 1000ft/lbs of torque out of my tuned Vitesse engine I tried timing it using the manifold vacuum technique. I was surprised that at tick over it did indeed run fine at around 20 degrees advance but did pink a slightly under load. Then I read or someone on the forum posted that with K&N less restricted air filters the vacuum at tick over is effected so I returned to 13 degrees. However at that setting the engine was nowhere near as good as it should be. In fact on a rolling road power dropped like a stone over 4000rpm. The answer was leaky carbs/gasket joint and more importantly getting the correct needle and mixture! I've posted in fuel section my woes but now it's 95% correct the difference is huge absolutely transformed the performance and timing back to 13 degrees. Iain

Does it tick over OK at say 6-800 rpm and not pink under load at low revs, high gear and lotsa welly?

Not sure best to phone but as Johny posted you can roughly check yourself up to say 3000rpm. After that the neighbours might start yelling😁 Iain