Iain T

Thanks for the post. I bought a small bottle of Jenolite to treat a few rust spots and like you gobsmacked at the price which I think was over £20 for 150ml! Iain

Aren't the heat isolators normally an asbestos type material? Mine are on my Stromberg but yours look like aluminium. Or is it an adaptor plate? Iain

Good point however I replaced this on my gearbox as I thought about it slapping around. Clearance is minimal but it still makes a noise.....! I wonder if it's clutch plate springs or pourly aligned teeth in the cover that's making the bearing hence assembly rattle. Iain

I also changed my slave cylinder but didn't make any difference. I'm jealous RBRR....... Iain

I've tried to get rid of my rattly noise and failed. I also have a new clutch cover and plate nuffin stops the rattle. It's a Triumph fing! Let me know if you find the cause.....sorry. Iain

No there is a spring clip at the back of the fork that pushes over the pivot ball screwed to the bellhousing. It's not a tight fixing. When you depress the clutch does the noise stop? Iain

To check for worn fork pins rattling apply slight pressure to the fork by the slave push rod? If the rattle stops it's the fork or worn carrier groove or possible wear of gearbox nose o/d to carrier i/d. Just a thought. FYI mine rattles and don't know what the cause it but it stops when clutch is engaged. I have new gearbox carrier nose, new carrier, new bearing (correct thickness). It's annoying! Iain

Then it's as it should be. Does the noise seem it's coming from the slave push rod/fork contact area?

As Johny said! The carrier should have a dimple in the grove where the fork pins sit to stop it rotating. I fitted a pin through my carrier as the dimple was worn as we're the fork pins..... The carrier shouldn't rotate but the bearing face should be in contact with the clutch cover so therefore does rotate or you'll get a dead few inches in your clutch pedal. Iain

Matt, go back to basics and take off the dash pot and air piston then measure (if you have a vernier) the depth of the jet to the bridge. Both carbs should be the same depth. Adjust if not. It seems you may be running lean so lower the jets 1/4 of a turn. If you don't have a vernier wind up the jets to be flush with the bridge then wind down both the same amount of turns. As to how many turns with your setup I don't know but take a look before you wind up and guess the depth! I then make a mark snowpake or similar on the adjuster so I don't get lost when fine tuning. The air leak needs to be fixed ASAP or it'll never idle or run correctly. Iain

Good call!

I don't think the pipe and hose is your problem especially as its been working fine to date. Has cleaning the filter made a difference? Iain

On my Vitesse it's 1/4" out the tank and the PO ran 5/16" to the carb pipes which are 1/4". I fitted an adapter on the carb pipes to the 5/16" hose . My filter is by the tank and has 1/4" one end and 5/16" the other. Bought from carbuilder solutions. Iain

I think the ends unscrew to clean. Iain

It looks like the type of filter you can clean. Perhaps it's restrict fuel flow? Iain

What plugs are you using and when was the last time you changed or inspected them? Its the cause of the oily plugs that also needs investigating. Does the engine use much oil? I have similar hill problems when I first bought my Vitesse and it was down to lack of fuel and running very lean. Iain

Or no damper oil in one carb? You've opened Pandora's Box now!

Having tried 3 weights in my Stromberg carbs it makes a big difference! It alters the rise of the air piston(valve) which has a large effect on the fuel mixture. Generally the lighter spring is a weaker mixture but then there are the needle taper and damper oil effects to consider. I found choosing the correct needle/spring is paramount and damper oil changes acceleration mixture. Take a peek at my topic Vitesse needle the story in this section. All fun and games and I've not yet posted my latest and greatest! Iain

The paint invariably comes off. The only way is to test the compression force at a regulated distance. Stromberg springs have a weight in grammes at a compression height of 53mm. Easily done with a cardboard cylinder cut to length and a setof kitchen scales. Just compress the spring with something flat to the cylinder and read how many grammes it requires. Iain

For E10 fuel you need R9 spec hose. To be safe although I only use E5 fuel I have replaced all mine with Gates Barricade available from the club shop and other good suppliers. Beware cheap Fleabay hoses! Iain

I have Pertronix and Flamethrower coil. They are very reliable. It's a matter of going through each system and checking. A good way to learn about your car! It sounds like fuel starvation so could be the dreaded rubber slivers. What spec are your hoses? If the PO used E10 and didn't change the hoses that is another possible cause. Do you have in line filter? Do you also have a high lift cam? Normally 1.5" carbs work well on 2 litres including modified engines because the air speed is kept high. Your 1.75" have hopefully been set up with the correct needles for your engine. Iain

Welcome Matt! First off its not E5 fuel as E10 gnats pee shouldn't be used for our engines. I had the same whistle sound and found the previous owner (PO) had used the wrong carb gasket and allowed air in. Sounded like a supercharger winding up! Fitting the correct one and the tickover was much better. Huco pump, I have one, are normally fit and forget. However! I found a soldered wire joint and heat sealed joint holding on by a strand and caused some 'ead scratching as the fault was intermittent. Check wire and connections. As it ran OK I think the timing is at least acceptable. However (again) the electronic ignition can play up. What make and type is fitted? That'll do for starters the guru's will be along sooooon! Iain PS Don't all 2 litres use 1.5" carbs? Is your engine standard?

The gap between the brass ring the back of my boss is bigger than with a standard boss. It's down to offsets in the die casting hence the need to have a spacer but perhaps it's pushing the plunger in too far so I'll add reducing the spacer length to the job list. Iain

Do you have relays in your horn circuit?

As its a non standard boss I've had to use a spacer to get the pencil to contact the ring. Perhaps I need to take another couple of mill off the spacer. Iain