Iain T

I'm still to be convinced, yes I can be stubborn but in the nicest possible way 😂. Our engines like a bit of black round the plugs and deep tan electrodes. If they look a bit paisty the mixture is too lean. I can't wait for the next installment! Iain

Pete, to help is there a factory amount of turns from flush for a basic setting? My money is on fuel/carbs and not cam timing.....but a useful learning curve! Advancing the ignition and slightly higher tick over has compensated for very weak mixture. Anyone want a 10p bet? Iain

I may have exaggerated slightly...

Have faith🙏

It is natural to suspect cam timing and I'm sure now you've corrected the minor error it will be better. I can only relate my experience which given the head etc required a lot more fuel and timing wasn't the problem. If you lack power after getting it back together try turning the carb adjuster half a turn and ignition at 13 degrees. I think you have a Mk2 which if your engine is standard has 6AC needles.

OK a curve ball which may be a load of rubbish. In the search of 500bhp and 1000ft/lbs of torque out of my tuned Vitesse engine I tried timing it using the manifold vacuum technique. I was surprised that at tick over it did indeed run fine at around 20 degrees advance but did pink a slightly under load. Then I read or someone on the forum posted that with K&N less restricted air filters the vacuum at tick over is effected so I returned to 13 degrees. However at that setting the engine was nowhere near as good as it should be. In fact on a rolling road power dropped like a stone over 4000rpm. The answer was leaky carbs/gasket joint and more importantly getting the correct needle and mixture! I've posted in fuel section my woes but now it's 95% correct the difference is huge absolutely transformed the performance and timing back to 13 degrees. Iain

Does it tick over OK at say 6-800 rpm and not pink under load at low revs, high gear and lotsa welly?

Not sure best to phone but as Johny posted you can roughly check yourself up to say 3000rpm. After that the neighbours might start yelling😁 Iain

The Distributor Doctor is your best option for refurbishing your dizzy. He checks and calibrates the advance curve. Iain

As you say Johny, one step at a time. It's certainly a puzzle. Iain

Advance springs? I see it's been mentioned before but the advance curve may be miles out. The problem is over time some of our parts either wear out or replaced by wrong widgets.....and then there's the bits on our cars not just us! Iain

I think JohnD may be saved from eating the chocolate sponge hat (much better with a dollop of full fat cream) as he may well be correct saying the dizzy could be 180 degrees out. The cam being 1/4 or 1/2 tooth out can't explain the advance issue. Iain

I dropped mine and cracked the bloomin screen😡 and had to get it replaced!

Best practice is take copious amounts of photos and mark where everything is now. Iain

You are not alone! This forum is a goldmine of experienced help. I still concider myself a novice but with the forums help it gives you the at elbow confidence to tackle jobs you would never normally have done. Iain

Of course you need to find the cam position! Sorry

I know you don't have a piston stop but using one doesn't require feeler gauge etc. You only need a pointer ( and an easily printed 360 degree marked disc. Make sure you are on compression stroke, turn crank until the piston hits the stop then rotate back. Half way between the two angles is tdc. Spot on no messing with trying to find the rocker point. Google finding tdc with piston stop. Iain

Finding TDC is so much easier using a simple piston stop. I bought one of tinternet and delivered next day. Iain

Is the engine at TDC? Iain

I've lost track, why do you want the crank bolt off? It's age you know.. Aaah just flicked back you want to take the timing chain cover off. Iain

I'm sure I bought my glass filter from carbuilder solutions as they sold one with a 1/4 one end and 5/16 the other. I fitted it by the tank outlet which in my car is 1/4 to the fuel line which is 5/16.part number is FFGLKIT Iain

Asked my wife nicely to do just that after I couldn't stop the engine from turning. Iain

That's what I've done but used some 1.5mm ali sheet. I slid the packer at the front of the rad mounting bracket to angle the top of rad rearwards. It moved about 15mm. The bonnet hinge brackets are welded and not adjustable and have an angled slot for adjustment of the pivot pin. Therefore raising the front also pushes the bonnet forward which increases to bonnet rear to windscreen lower gap. This is what happens when a car is a meccano set of sub assemblies of questionable accuracy! Iain

I need to take a look.....

Didn't know that! I thought the rad mounting brackets were welded on to the chassis. I was going to remove the front valance to clean and possibly repaint so I'll take a look. Iain