Iain T

Finally in the correct format!!!!!

I hate Apple products with a vengeance, this is the picture. The part in question is the one with the two brass valves. choke.pdf

Colin, it's the part in the square which isn't flat. This fits between the outer part of the choke (with the spring and lever) and the carb body. If the face that the disc pushes against isn't perfectly flat then fuel will leak out although as he said there is fuel in the chamber behind the flat disc which can still seep out through the ill fitting shaft/outer body bush. choke body.pdf

Spoke to a very helpful guy at Carbex and he said they often see quite a bit of distortion on the intermediate body ie the one the disc rotates against. He suggested to push the brass tube out and finely lick over the faces with a mill. I'm going to do that as I still have access to milling machines where I used to work. He said it may still dribble out of the worn outer body which they sometimes re-bush. Plan B is next year to possibly install a kit from Classic Car Fuel Injection at Chelmsford. I spoke to the guy today and he said he has done around twelve 2000/2500 Triumphs and the results have been very good with a lot more lower and mid range grunt. The advantage is it retains the original carb body look with just an insert between the carb and manifold for the injectors. The plumbing if done correctly doesn't look to be too horrendous in the engine bay and you get the advantage of fully programmable fuel injection and ignition. Has anyone on the Forum used the kit or the company? Iain

Hi Donal, Welcome to the Forum. It's been a while since I stripped an engine down, I used lots of containers plus sealable sandwich bags for the smaller stuff. I just wrote what the items were on the bags with an indelible marker. I put the bags in containers but you can put multiple bags into one container. Don't forget to mark up the mains and big end caps, rods, pistons up 1, 2, 3, 4, and just incase I had a senile moment I think I wrote 1F for Front and 4R for ???? I can't remember..... As Colin said take loads of pictures. Have fun! Iain

Thanks Pete, I just didn't get a warm fuzzy feeling when I talked to the guy at Burlen, it was as though I knew more about the 150 CDS than he did! Cheers Iain

I made the guy get the part out of their stockroom to check and I said the same as you. It was a difficult conversation as even the 150 CDS drawing on their website is not correct and doesn't show the middle body part hence I am going to phone G&L Monday. I really did loose confidence in what I was being offered. I'll report back. The Dribbler

Carefully assembled choke with wellseal on joints but still leaks! I phoned Burlen and the part Pete suggested is a complete assembly but the choke disc only has one set of graduated holes. After rummaging around he did find a new twin carb disc (2 sets of holes) but just as I was about to order their phones went down!?!? I'll try Gower and Lee Monday and see what they suggest to fix the leak. My shares have benefited from the Bo Jo Bounce so I'm feeling flush, where is that Jenvey Heritage catalogue..... Iain

Hi Ian My car is a '68 Mk 2 but when he had the car restored the previous owner was a Lotus fan so mine is Triumph 19 with Lotus Green stripes but based on the '6' front end headlamp and grille arrangement. It's a personal choice and it depends how paranoid you are about originality but I think this is the best looking option. I like the idea about wrapping as I am not that keen on everyone saying 'that's an odd looking Lotus' so I would like to change to a more traditional colour stripe. If you do go for wrapping please report back. Iain

Agree it should be the complete assembly as the two discs are kept in place by peening over the end of the brass shaft, I think I just asked the wrong person. With the return spring as above it is a tidy assembly and am loath to make it messy. I've had the car for nearly 3 years and last week was the first time it started correctly, ticked over and now the horrid vibrations (many causes) has been sorted I could actually push it in anger. I thoroughly enjoyed it! Next on the list is make a better ducting system for the carbs by adapting a standard box with a centre feed then ducted to the side of the rad? I have K&N's on but I need cooler air when I get stuck in the inevitable traffic jams. Plus the brakes have no feel whatsoever so if M1144's aren't fitted I'll be buying from the TSSC shop. Iain

Paul, The upshot is make sure wherever you take it to be welded is experienced in cast iron repairs. We always used to heat the entire casting but in say some larger press tools this was not possible so we heated the area as best we could. The GTMA (gauge and toolmakers association) website lists some companies that could do the work....but at what price? Iain

The choke outer body assembly at Burlen part number B19203 is £52.94 but the guy didn't know if the two discs where included, he doubted they did. However this is a new assembly so the brass shaft should be a close fit in the body's bearing. Therefore this would reduce to a minimum the side movement on the shaft created by the return spring. My thinking is as the return spring is pretty strong if there is excessive wear in the shaft/bearing this could tilt the shaft and thereby the disc so that that it doesn't mate correctly with the adjacent part and leak. As far as I can see it is only the small internal spring that pushes the disc against the mating part that stops fuel from leaking and this internal coil spring isn't strong enough to overcome the more powerful side load from the return spring. Or all the above could be a load of poop as the tolerance between the discs and shaft could be enough to compensate for any wear in the shaft/body bearing..??? All I know is this mechanism wasn't designed by NASA! I'm trying out Wellseal on the outer body sealing surface as there isn't a gasket then go from there. Iain

While on the underground escalators I've made many a close but discrete study of derrieres , most don't merit a second look. Some are like mobile chicanes, difficult to go round without skidding....

Only on weekends.....I live in London, anything goes!

Colin, fortunately she has small soft hands but very sharp claws so it's always best to agree with whatever she says when she's rummaging around yer bottom end, I don't want any scratches on my paintwork!

Well it certainly isn't Brian the Snail! When I was at upper school we used to sneak out at 'free period times' to my friends house and watch The Saint (I nearly bought a 1800S instead of a Vitesse) then bunk back in. Bring back the Magic Roundabout, Fireball XL5 and Captain Pugwash I'm sure kids would love them. Out of interest I will phone Burlen to see if their choke is correct for a CDS and how much it is. I'll report back. Iain

Pete, Found the little bugger somehow it had bounced down the exhaust leapt over to the middle of the car and lodged itself between the back of the front crossmember and the oil pan! I know it's a spring but where did it get all the energy from? Wayne, Engine started second pull, as opposed to 10, so it is obviously very important to not only ensure all the graduated holes are clear in the disc but to play around with the fast idle screw (that's the one that the choke lever pushes on to rotate the throttle spindle) to get enough enrichment. The assembly still leaks fuel but I will sort that. Iain

Managed to persuade my wife to have a rummage around my bottom end, can't find the bugger of a spring. I'm going to take the side shield off as I am sure it's down by the suspension plus time to buy a flexible magnet/clamp and I managed, albeit in cropped form, to upload a photo of my car it's been a busy day! Iain

My wife has small hands, what if.....?

Barry, I agree this forum is like having a host of experts 'at elbow' certainly helped me. I found the flat on the choke shaft has to be pointing down (toward the lever) and the slot in the disc is at 10 o/c. I found my disc was not mating correctly to the adjacent body and leaked so lapped it in with 1500 grit wet and dry. It also seems important to set the fast idle correctly, when the choke is fully pulled out revs should be 1300/1500 Max. At this setting it then rotates the disc enough to let fuel through the slot and the graduated holes to enrich the carbs. If the fast idle screw is out too much the lever just rotates the throttle spindles but the slot isn't in line with the fuel hole in the mating body so no or minimal enrichment IE only half the designed function and a lot of cranking! Have fun and never fool yourself you've almost finished your to do list...

I was going to see if sealing the dished disc to the flat disc and the outer body to the adjacent part (there is no gasket there) had any effect. Just clutching at straws but really pissed off about loosing the return spring, it's down there somewhere! As I said the leak doesn't seem to be as bad as before, perhaps as everything now works (crossing fingers) with much much less cranking it is actually sucking in the fuel? Iain

Just taken a look and the rocker wear seems less than I thought, I'm trying to refurbish what I have as replacement parts can be made of old tin cans and soft. Good news is I lapped in the choke disc to the body and the leak seems to be better. When I examined both parts mated together I noticed a very slight rock in the disc so I did my best to get them as snug as a bug with full body contact! Down side is I dropped the return spring which tinkled down the exhaust tubes/chassis bits and hasn't seen the light of day! I was hoping for it to fall into my engine oil catch tray but nah, no matter how much I looked and poked about I couldn't find it. I'll try again when I have more light. Double good news is the engine fired up on the second pull which if you go back many posts was the reason I started friggin' about with the choke! Going to wait until next week when the Wellseal arrives before I take it apart again. Have a good weekend everyone Cheers

Doug now you're boasting 'cos you don't leak! Have choke apart and in the kitchen again (wife not too chuffed) and ordered some Wellseal. Until it arrives and just to amuse myself I'm going to take a gander at my rocker assembly, when I last adjusted the tappets there seemed an excessive amount of movement on the arms. I notice Paddocks do a bushed assembly anyone know if it's any good? Iain

I think CDSE is the American or later spec and has a different choke mechanism. A friend of mine said get some Wellseal, and it's fuel resistant. I'm off now to have a play in the multi-storey car park aka my garage! Well at least it's dry but the lights are on timers so every 5 or 10 minutes I have to run around waving my hands to get the sensor to turn them on again.....I call it The Docklands Dance! Oh for a nice warm well lit garage.

I agree with above, I'm doing lots of scratching. Design for long term durability is bad.