Eddie

There definitely should be a thermostat. Removing it is often a "modification" that is carried out to disguise an overheating problem.

I think you only need one for the MoT but they are not expensive and are sold in pairs on eBay and all the usual Triumph suppliers, so I would replace both if you are sure that is the problem. In my experience horn not working is usually a bad connection somewhere, often an earth.

Is this smooth enough? Funny thing this classic car hobby. This started with replacing a light bulb....

Spud??? We have people coming from Luton, why not join them?

This is a small show (60 cars) that I organise in conjunction with the summer fete at a local primary school where I am a Governor. It is in Sutton (South London/Surrey borders) near the A217 Sutton by-pass, about 8 miles north of the M25, junction 8 and this year it will be on: SATURDAY JUNE 20th from 11.30 until 14.30 You can see some photos of last year's event here: http://s218.photobucket.com/user/edwardprothero/library/Westbourne%20Classics%202014?sort=2&page=1 As you can see from the photos, we need more Triumphs there, so if you would like to come along please send me a private message and I will email you an entry form. And as this is a school fete there is plenty for the rest of the family, especially the little ones! Hope to se you there!

Thanks Pete. That sounds like the bracket I was intending to make but good to hear it from someone who actually knows what they are talking about .

Does anyone have a photo of what this should look like, as it is missing from my car?

That explains why a previous owner had cut off the bottom half of that bracket! I am in the process of making a new one.

After struggling with this for over 2 hours, trying to push, pull and twist the tank in every direction it finally just popped out! I wish I could say what the secret move was that finally freed it but I have no idea! Anyway, while it is out I think I will paint it. Does anybody know where I can buy a new sticker for the top?

At the London classic car show I spoke to the guys on the Pilkington glass windscreen stand. They said they could make any windscreen for any classic provided they had the original specifications, and they have most because they supplied them originally. They quoted me £230 + vat for a Ford Zodiac front screen, which I thought was pretty good for a one-off. http://www.WindscreensForClassics.com part number 2226

Thanks! Good advice, I would not have thought of that!

I am not intending to fit a new tank. I just need to get the tank out to replace the rear light unit.

I agree with Clive. A servo doesn't actually improve the braking, just means you don't have to press the pedal so hard. I suppose it is a matter of personal preference.

OK - thanks. The filler grommet doesn't want to come out either. I think I will have to cut it and buy a new one.

As mentioned above, I have tried to take the tank out of my Herald 13/60 to replace the light unit, but it doesn't want to come out! According to the workshop manual it should just lift out once everything is disconnected, but it won't. Everything is disconnected but there doesn't seem to be enough space between the boot floor and the top of the inner rear wing What am I doing wrong?

According to my workshop manual I need a special tool to remove & re-fit the valve guides. Does anyone know where I can get one?

Thanks. So is the oil burning on start up likely to be caused by leakage into the cylinders through the valve guides? And if so what is the solution? Replacing the valve guides?

Simple question - should a Herald 13/60 have valve stem oil seals? My car burns a little oil on start-up. I have been advised by more than one person that this is due to oil running down the valve guides and can be cured by replacing the valve stem oil seals. However, my workshop manual says that the Herald engine does not have valve stem oil seals, although it does list "ineffective valve stem oil seals" as a possible cause of excessive oil consumption . Rimmers do not list valve stem oil seals for the Herald engine, but James Paddock do; "for use with single valve springs". Advice please?

I can also recommend Halford's own brand batteries. I used to buy batteries that looked like the original 1960s item from a specialist, but they only ever lasted a couple of years. I realised that this was because the reason they look like 60s batteries was because they are - built in exactly the same way, Since fitting Halford's batteries to both my cars they have never let me down, despite the fact that the cars sit in the garage unused most of the time.

Not sure if they were originally, but as juppy says, they are now if, like me, you are not too careful where you buy them.

That has not been my experience. I have had some very satisfactory results with a 25L compressor, although obviously it makes sense to buy the best you can afford and a 50L machine would be better.

It is a SIP Airmate Cirrus 34025, about 20 years old. I have used it with a cheap conventional gun running at about 50-60 psi, and also a small HVLP one running at 30 psi. The compressor does start up intermittently as I spray.

I have successfully sprayed cellulose using a 25 litre compressor so you shouldn't have any problems with a 50 litre one.

I was thinking that the missing 3rd wire might be for a rev counter, but if the car has a mechanical rev counter as KevinR says then you can ignore that.

Does your car have a rev-counter, and if so is it working?