Eddie
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Everything posted by Eddie
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This interests me because although I do not get the vibration, the rear of my Herald is noisy above 45mph. I had assumed it was a worn diff or worn bearings in the diff and have been trying to pluck up the courage to remove it for reconditioning. Would it be worth changing the UJs first, in case that is the problem rather than the diff itself?
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135 out of 10400, or 6 out of 479 both equate to approximately 1.25%. So we are up there with the CT forum ! And it was a nice afternoon, so everyone was out playing with their Triumphs .
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Some harsh reviews there! I didn't think it was that bad, although the female presenter was rather annoying. It was a lot better than some of the contrived classic car restoration shows, (although obviously the Fuzz Townshend one is excellent! ).
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I don't think that is unusual. I am Admin for a Ford club forum, on which far less than 10% of the forum members regularly post anything. A lot of people register on the forum and never post at all.
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Here is my Herald
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I did mine myself, it is not difficult and kits are available from various suppliers online.
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Don't know about a Delaney but on a Smith's the top hose from the heater is the return/outlet. If you disconnect it from the heater altogether you should see which way the water is flowing.
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I had a similar problem on a Ford. It turned out to be crud from inside the fuel tank partially blocking the fuel filter. Normally this was not a problem but under hard acceleration not enough fuel was getting through causing hesitation and eventually to the engine cutting out.
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A new rear light bulb...
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Anybody else planning to go? http://www.brooklandsmuseum.com/index.php?/events/details/new-years-day-gathering4/
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My car has no syncro on 1st, and it is a 1969 Herald, so not an early box. Elsewhere on this forum I am sure someone said that no Heralds had syncro on 1st.
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Agreed - what a great idea. Congratulations to whoever thought of it .
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Thanks, I don't really use the car enough to make it worth buying a new all-syncro gearbox. I have however spent some money on new seals and gaskets and a bush kit for the gear stick and remote, and I have now cleaned it all up and put it back together. Thanks for all the helpful advice .
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Not a carol, but The Pretenders released a Christmas song called "2000 Miles".
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No, my 13/60 does not have synchro on 1st. I didn't think it was supposed to?
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It looks like CB 150805, but I am told that the "C" is actually a "G", so GB 150805 Thanks for all your help, Pete. It is much appreciated .
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Ain't that the truth!
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Sorry - I don't understand. Can I use this bell housing as it is, or do I need to change the centre? I am used to 60s Fords that have an oil seal at the front of the gearbox casing so this is all new to me.
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The people who were doing engine tuning at the South of England meet were based somewhere near Gatwick, but I can't remember the company name. Does anybody else know? What do you need done? Does it have to be a Triumph specialist? A lot of 60s & 70s cars' oily bits are very similar .
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So this is the correct bell housing for the gearbox? To be honest I would not be too worried if it only leaks if parked on a steep hill. The 'box that is on the car at the moment leaks all the time!
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To be honest I am not sure what you mean by a scroll . Hopefully these photos are a bit clearer - this is the centre of the bell housing - no sign of an oil seal. And this is the input shaft.
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This is the bell housing that was attached to the gearbox. It supposedly came from a Herald 13/60. Is it the wrong bell housing for the 'box, and what would happen if I used it?
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Thanks Pete. According to the diagram on Rimmers website only the bottom bolt has a copper washer? Also, there doesn't seem to be an oil seal as such - just the metal "scroll type" seal. Does this always have to be replaced?
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Thanks for the prompt response. A supplementary question - how is that ball race lubricated? Should it be packed with grease, or does that risk grease getting on to the clutch plates?
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I am cleaning up and checking a Herald 13/60 gearbox that I bought from eBay. Innards all seem to be in good condition and everything moves about nice and smoothly as it should. The only potential problem that I have noticed is that there is a little play in the input shaft. Is this normal, or should I fit a new ball race to eliminate the movement?
