jiggawhat2k
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Posts posted by jiggawhat2k
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On 02/11/2020 at 14:03, Pete Lewis said:
as for the mullered drum retaining screw. not really required it only stops the drum falling off when there is no wheel in place
probably more use on the production line than any other time to stop drums falling on some guys head
Pete
Thanks yep, I assumed as much and just didn't put it back in, glad to see for once that my corner cutting isn't putting me in mortal danger!
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On 02/11/2020 at 11:43, Roger K said:
Great stuff!
Just to say on the exhaust, you can weld a stainless exhaust with a Mig, using ordinary mild steel wire. It works just as well, you just get the welds going rusty before the exhaust does. Or you can just buy a small role of stainless wire and use that on the Mig, same gas. I do it all the time, no problems. I do Tig as well, but for exhaust repairs it's just easier to use the Mig which is much more user-friendly for an exhaust that's still on the car!
Nice, didn't know that!
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3 hours ago, johny said:
Thats it.
Depends how much power increase your intending to have and/or if using a LSD is harder on halfshafts? In either case larger bolts wouldnt be a bad idea especially as it sounds the LSD was intended for use with the later stub axles. Saying that though I dont know if its the bolts and flanges that give problems as much as the weaker inner stub axles themselves....
The car will be driven fairly hard once events are back on, there do seem to be recommendations to use the larger spline but not sure on bigger flange. Would make sense to me to go bigger as a precaution?
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21 minutes ago, NonMember said:
No, Pete was suggesting you use the "large flange" inner axle shaft (from a type D diff) and swap the UJ flanges (D54aSPT on your second picture) to match.
Right got you. OK that makes sense, and means I can use the large flange large spline variant from a 1500?
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8 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
surely if going LSD then you would benefit to change the inner coupling flanges for the 3/8bolt holes ??
the torque/lock might overload the 5/16" bolts
Pete
Thanks would that be this part?
Or which part from the above? Thanks
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4 minutes ago, johny said:
Believe Jim wants the smaller holes but bigger splines....
Correct exactly - the internals are now for large spline, but the case is with the smaller holes/different flange. Thanks all
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Been a while since I posted and you chaps have all been so helpful, so an update (not hugely exciting but hey!). Long post apologies!
I talked to Geoff at wins international who was very helpful and happened to have a good condition large crank 1300 from an aborted restoration. I snapped it up and got a pallet to my house.
On looking into it, it seems that the engine had recently been rebuilt and possibly not even run in. Internals either new or virtually new, it was absolutely spotless.
I spent a Saturday taking the old engine out (with the help of a friend) and then another Saturday swearing a lot while trying to mate the new engine to the gearbox on my own, using my engine crane on my small gravel drive. I think I did a dance when it finally clunked in after hours of frustration.
Plumbed everything back in and it fired up, miracle. There was an annoying ticking which I was pretty sure was a leak at the manifold, but I could still drive it.
I've been busy since then, refitted the manifold and carbs and now no leaks.
Also fitted a spitfire accelerator instead of the flat herald type, way nicer on my foot (in my mind anyway).
Fitted 2 speakers behind the door cards, there is a perfect speaker sized hole. Now it has 4 speakers up front (2 in footwell door pods I made from wood and covered, nice and hidden, 2 in the doors) a new Sony he'd unit that I've mounted in reach but under the dash, plus a sub woofer in the boot (ridiculous I know but I love it).
Replaced a fuel sender, after some initial irritation that I bought the wrong type (I got a screw one type rather than the one with bolts), so now I have a working fuel gauge. And a garage that smells of the fuel due to various accidents...
Also managed to avoid what could have been a catastrophic failure due to the rocker cover. I had an aftermarket alloy one fitted, the gaskets kept breaking up so I bought a thinner wide one designed for an alloy cover. On starting the engine, I could hear a loud banging, and the rocker had worked itself loose. See the small circles/dents where they were hitting? The tops of the rockers were hitting it, partly due to less space in the rocker vs standard, and due to the thinner aftermarket gasket.
If I'd left it much longer I'm sure small bits of metal would be flying around the head. Switched back and all ok now.
Fitted the interior back in, not a perfect fit but looks fine in black. Very much helps with comfort and road noise.
Last job was the leaky bodged exhaust I built a while ago. Not only had it been damaged by speedbumps, but it was also leaking around a few joins. Bought the right bits of pipe to build a side exit exhaust, partially to help with clearance but also just because I've always wanted a car with one.
Made the error of buying stainless, thinking a local garage could tig it together. No one could. So I put it together with some decent wide clamps and plenty of putty, it's as solid as I could hope for. All fitted up, at 4 different points underneath. Now no leaks! It's loud, ridiculously loud, I'll fail any noise checks, but we'll deal with that closer to when I hit a track...
You can see where it comes out, just in front of the driver side rear wheel. I was able to attach it to chassis points all the way, so it's nice and solid (used bushes/hangers).
I had some rubbing on the front tyres from the arches and it being so so low (which I like). Instead of raising it, I fitted lower profile tyres (were 80,now 65),problen solved! And they match the rear now. Vibrations way way reduced, suspect the original fronts were not balanced anymore.
Carbs are now balanced, but rich at the upper end of the rev range so I get quite pleasing but anti social pops on overrun. I've some less aggressive needles to put in, see how that goes.
Now I'm using it, rain or shine, for the weekly shop and it's just brilliant.
Thanks everyone for the help with my endless questions, it's on the road mostly due to advice from this forum.
A far-too-long video of the first drive after tuning up with the side exit.
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42 minutes ago, johny said:
Looking at this page I think the flanges are the same size but theres two sizes of bolts used. On a 13/60 diff (serial nº GE?) the bolt holes should be smaller but splines large....
https://www.canleyclassics.com/?archive=different-differentials
Great thanks, had a look at the link - the diff has a GA stamp so is from an early Herald.
The new internals of the diff are for a big quarter shaft.
Based on that, I'd need type B or type C I think?
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Type A Square front pinion flange. 5/16 bolt holes all round (1/2 AF spanner size). Small quarter shaft diameter inside. Casing no's G, Y, GA, FC to 120,000.
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Type B Square front pinion flange. 5/16 bolt holes all round (1/2 AF spanner size). Big quarter shaft diameter inside. Casing no's GE, FC from 120,001.
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Type C Square front pinion flange. 5/16 bolt holes on front flange (1/2 AF spanner size). 3/8 bolt holes on ourput flanges (9/16 AF spanner size). Casing no HB.
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Type D Round front pinion flange. 3/8 bolt holes all round (9/16 AF spanner size). Casing no's FH, FK, FR, FD, HC, KC, KD.
Thanks for the help guys!
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Ah thank you, very kind of you to check. I'm fitting them to a 13 60 herald 4.11 diff case which I assume is small flange? I've never taken these diffs apart before so am still working out the variants! Cheers Jim
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Hi there, I'm looking for a pair of inner stub axles in usable condition. Ideally also with the bearing on but on their own works too. Image of what I need attached.
I'm rebuilding a herald 4.11 diff with an lsd but the lsd I have is designed for later spitfires and needs the larger spline.
Happy to pay a fair price, would also require shipping.
Thanks very much as ever! Jim
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18 hours ago, Nigel Clark said:
It would be much easier to install a Triumph 6 cylinder than mate an MGB engine to your Herald.
Nigel
Cheers Nigel yep it appears so. Six might make it a bit nose heavy so seems like a 1300 or 1500 (probably 1300) is the smart choice!
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16 minutes ago, clive said:
No, in fact the opposite. The Midget has worse space around te engine, more prone to overheating. Sump likely wrong? Engine spec is identical.
Trust me for high revs, 1500 don't last. I ruined one crank at Goodwood, and another at the Prodrive track, and 3 others before I learnt my lesson. Obviously a slow learner.... I eventually put a dolomite 1850 engine into my Toledo. But have just bought a Sprint engine that is hopefully OK (will be stripping it tomorrow)
The other thing..... have you checked the regs of the sprint series you plan to enter? If you find the regs require too vast an expensehave a look at Autosolos, or even Targa rallies. No national B licence required, cheap entry, no expensive overalls/helmets etc and brilliant fun.
Thanks @clive triumph it is then.
Fair point on the 1500, I enjoyed the torque from my spitfire 1500 but have since broken a 1500 in the herald already. Sounds like you've been busting them for a while! Probably just replacing the 1300 is the smart move for now.
I've put a listing in the parts wanted!
I'll take a look at autosolo, sounds fun from what I've read. Also less strain on the car for it's first outings...Cheers as ever Clive
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Hi there, looking for a decent 1300 Spitfire bottom end, small or large crank is ok although small preferred.
Ideally it is working and in good condition, ready to be dropped in, as I can't work on it at the moment. Happy with decent used or rebuilt.
Thank you very much! Jim
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16 hours ago, Nick Jones said:
MG 1800 is the B series and weighs as much as the Triumph six. No Triumph interchangeability whatever. As Kevin has said, the only overlap is the 1500 used on the rubber bumpered Midgets which is actually a Triumph 1500 as used in the Dolomite and Spitfire with only detail differences.
If you want something revvy, you are best off starting with a small crank 1300 code GE or FD (your Herald should have a GE in it). I have a GE block, crank, pistons and rods here doing nothing available very cheap. It will need boring/grinding etc as well worn, but is currently standard size.
You may find it's just the top come off the piston. They do that sometimes......
Nick
Cheers Nick very helpful. Sounds like the 1800 is well and truly a dead end!
I'm not in a position to be able to build anything up myself due to a lack of indoor space (in the process of moving house), thanks for the GE offer though!
Good point on the piston top! Hadn't occurred to me. Will check once I pull it apart (not able to do so at the moment though). Thanks
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16 hours ago, KevinR said:
Don’t forget, if you really want to fit an engine from a Morris Garages offering you can always fit a1500 one from a late midget !
get the right clutch plate and it will drop straight in !
👹👹👹
Thanks @KevinR, is there any benefit of an mg 1500 over a spitfire 1500? Thanks again!
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Thanks chaps, that solves that then! Cheers again
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Hi guys, wondering if you can help. I have a Herald running the standard gearbox and diff, currently with a 1300 mk4 spitfire engine (large crank).
The bottom end has popped after a spirited drive, I've taken the head off and it looks fine but one of the pistons doesn't turn when i crank the engine so I assume that piston is toast (broken rod, or maybe crank? Not taken sump off yet).
I'm going to throw another bottom end in just to get it back on the road.
I already have a 1300 or a 1500 head that I can use.
Then I started looking around and saw there is an 1800 MGB engine, and a variety of other MG engine sizes (a 1700 too I think)? I know nothing about MG engines, or the compatibility of the bottom ends to Triumph heads.
I've very limited space to work, and want a bottom end that will attach directly on to the Herald gearbox which is in excellent condition.
My questions!
Do any of the MG bottom ends work as a direct swap for a triumph 1300/1500 head?
If an 1800 bottom end would work, is there any point? Or is it just more sensible to throw in a 1500 and ride the torque.
The car will be used for track days and the occasional sprint once the madness is done, so it will be used and abused. I don't want to spend too much ideally. I'm planning on starting to build an engine properly once I get a garage in a couple of months, but until then I want it to run!
It also has twin hs4 carbs and 421 manifold plus exhaust.
Thanks as always for the help.
A few gratuitous broken down photos just because.
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Reviving this old thread as noticed that apex in the USA have now launched their camber compensator (was previously mentioned as coming soon on this thread).
https://apex2apexmotorsports.com/shop/ols/products/camber-compensator-kit
Not sure if they ship to the UK or not, I assume so. Not too expensive (cheaper than a custom courier spring anyway).
Anyone heard of anyone fitting it? It is tempting, like the fact it is kind of period-correct.
Cheers!
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After a recommendation off here, I bought a jetex 2" silencer off amazon for about £30 and fitted between the manifold and the middle section (cut down). Definitely toned it down, still loud due to the rest being a straight pipe but sounds great to me.
Had a full Bell 421 and Bell single rear box (full system), it was pretty loud tbh on my 1500 (I like it but can be hard work on long journeys), I'd fit a silencer in the middle of I was doing lots of cross country!
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On 05/05/2020 at 07:46, clive said:
I have a very vertical manifold, 4>1. The sensor is on the outside of the bend at the bottom, almost horizontal.
http://blog.innovatemotorsports.com/important-tips-to-get-the-maximum-life-out-of-your-o2-sensor/
With carbs I would set them up, then remove the sensor.
If interested, I have an older JAW wideband sensor/controller somewhere... documents here under "legacy support" Had little use and I used it on a couple of cars using a homemade pipe that clamped into the back of the exhaust. https://www.14point7.com/pages/software-and-documentation
Brilliant yes thanks, I'll direct message you. Cheers!
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Cheers for detailed response Clive and Spam (if that is your real name).
I didn't realise you can munch through sensors over time. Where did you position it?
Very keen on a rolling road but the current situation makes that a little tricky at the moment plus I don't mind doing it badly myself, part of the fun!
Cool I'll check out the LD one, thanks again, Jim
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Hi there, I've got the herald running better (spec is 1300 mk4 spitfire engine, hs4 carbs, 421 manifold and exhaust), done some driving now and noticing from 1k-4k there is a bit of a flat spot in power (and occasional hesitation on pop from the carbs) and then from 4k-6k it picks up nicely.
Carbs are balanced and when idling the mix is good. I'm wondering if I play with the needle type (currently running AAR needles) I might be able to improve the mid range.
A guide I read on tuning su carbs said that an air fuel ratio meter is the best way to get the mix right across the whole rev range.
Is this something others have done? What meter might you have tried/installed before?
Thanks for the help! Jim
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Checked the dB of the exhaust I fitted, 88db! No idea what my neighbours complained about lol. Let's not question the validity of the app for now...
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11 hours ago, yorkshire_spam said:
It runs, but my attempts to video the first fire up failed, and when I did manage to video the second fire up the sound is totally out of sync with the video. I think I'm better with old Triumphs than I am with video cameras. (Think I fixed the video/audio issue!)
Sounds excellent!
MGB 1800 bottom end to triumph 1300 or 1500 head, possible or worthwhile?
in Engine
Posted
Thanks very much Clive, very kind, I may well take you up on that as I occasionally come down to Brighton to see friends.
Very interested in the track day, I didn't know there were triumph/mg specific ones. Do ping me with details!
Thanks very much, Jim