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haggis

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Posts posted by haggis

  1. Another pic of the Flat top piston cylinder head water hole variation, in this one, the kind of large tear shape hole to left of the inlet valve is just a simple hole at the top (in the biggest bit) on the domed piston head, I honestly can't logically see there is any major difference as both engine blocks have the same holes in them, but I'm sure someone out there will have done something like this and can hopefully advise if there are any potential issues.

    Thanks

    Hag

     

    sml_gallery_341_88_472939.jpg

  2. Hi Kevin, I've managed to work out how to download a picture but only one at a time!

     

    This is the shorter head for flat top pistons. On the bottom row the two outer holes show signs of erosion from the block but no holes, the taller head block (domed pistons) has holes.

    Can they or do they need to be drilled out? originally a GT6 MkIII engine KE (domed) in a MK1 body, they obviously have some potential overheating issues just wondered if this would make any difference. The head and Flat to pistons I want to install are from a MKii Vitesse HC (flat). Its just down to the best parts I have available. Thanks

    Hag.

    sml_gallery_341_88_1556495.jpg

  3. Hi kevin, the holes are on the mating surfaces where the head gasket goes, I'll try and post some pics, tried before without success but have another go. The domed piston head has more water way holes than the flat piston head, although there are erosion marks on this head in exactly the same places. I'll try some pics hopefully that will help explain.

     

    Thanks

    Hag

  4. Thanks JohnD, Seriously warphi1970? not sure that's gonna help me get any answers, but at least you hopefully managed to learn a thing or two.

     

    Hag

    Ps No one has said I'm stupid so I think my plan is a goer, just need to know about the different water holes in the head, to drill or not to drill is the question?

  5. Hi john, thanks again, so if I have a shorter head, I.e the one that came with the flat top piston engine, then I can just fit this one instead of the taller head for the domed piston engine.maybe I should explain a little more.

    I have two complete engines including heads one domed and one flat top Pistons, the block on the flat top piston engine is not good, but has brand new hepolite Pistons and a really good gas flowed head, the domed block is good but needs new Pistons and head, hence my dilemma. Good quality engine parts are in scarce supply and my machine shop have suggested using the new flat top Pistons if possible on the block that had domed Pistons in, hence my compatability questions between the two engines. The only difference I can see is the additional water way holes in the domed piston head.

    Appreciate your help

    Hag

  6. Has anyone ever done this? swapped flat top pistons & head on a domed piston recessed block? Im a bit nervous as my machine shop need me to make a decision and its going to cost lots, don't want to get wrong, arrrgh!.  I looked at the heads at it would appear the only difference other than height is there are water holes blanked off on the flat top version, does anyone have any idea if this matters, or I can drill them out maybe?

     

    Any advice greatly welcomed.

     

    Thanks

    HAg

  7. Hi John, thanks for that, yes I read up on the domed piston, from what I understand the CR is also increased with the domed Pistons on the 2.0l and would be better for a modified engine? I have also read there are some 'burn' issues and that flats are best for modified engines and generally better although their CR is less. I would also assume that some head skimming would increase the CR on the flat version and this may be the best all round solution.

    So basically I'm thinking:

    Flat Pistons in domed piston block.(better block)

    Recessed head gasket.

    Shorter push rods.

    Shorter cylinder head for flat tops skimmed ( by expert) to increase CR, as this suits the good parts I have out of two engines,

    Does this sound like nonsense?

     

    Thanks

    Jason

  8. Hi all, can anyone tell me if you can fit flat top Pistons in a block that previously had domed ones in? The only difference in the blocks seems to be the little recess around the bores. I have both heads from either piston type.,

    Thanks hag

  9. Hi Clive, the Gt6 engine coming out is KE21720HE, the only difference I can see so far is the top of the bore of the HC doesn't have the little recess of the KE engine, but everything else looks very similar. They are both Flat top pistons, both lucas distributors, and I was planning to swap the cam for my Kent one but initially I'm tempted to leave the original in and see how it goes first. Any idea about the tolerances??

     

    Thanks

    Hag

  10. Hi and thanks for the responses, Its a late vitesse engine no HC 57762he, I bought it as it was a good opportunity for a spare engine as I have a vitesse and GT6 (I know its greedy), I'm currently stripping it down for peace of mind as it has been machined a few years back but never run and want to check the bearing tolerances to make sure this has been done correctly. Can anyone confirm what the tolerances are for the big & small ends?

     

    Thanks

    Jason

  11. Hello again, following oil pressure problems I'm now looking at changing my engine. Currently running (or not as the case my be) a KE engine, found a good rebuilt HC engine to go straight in, does anyone know if all the parts are compatible? as I have some goodies on the KE I would like to transfer across.

     

    Thanks

    Haggis

  12. HI pete, I think you've managed to respond to two posts in one, as I'm assuming the rhythmic puffing and the valve test might be in response to James's post about loss of power, but I may be wrong.

    And they say men can't multi-task. I'm still dealing with low oil pressure, but have shelved my problems until the weekend. I will look into the crankcase breathing again, thanks for your help.

     

    Hag

  13. Hi all, thanks to admin for inserting as a link, it makes for good reading and with some diagnostics to play around with if your having a similar problem. 

     

    Now I have another question about oil pressure and was wondering If anyone had any thoughts on this.

     

    When I first purchased the car I was told it had some engine breathing problems, the mech fuel pump had been removed and pump block hole covered over, rocker pipe breather was not connected to anything.

     

    Lots of oil leaks were present and I set about (after advice from someone)  installing an oil catchment tank, I had a bespoke cover made for the old fuel pump hole which I could fit an 1/2" pipe on and I ran this and the rocker to a catchment tank with a filter to the bulkhead.

     

    Now I hadn't considered this in my post so far, but does the crankcase & rocker breathing play any part in oil pressure?

     

    The filter seems to smoke quite a bit when the engine is warm, i was under the impression that a standard engine had a breather within the mech fuel pump for crank and a rocker breather which would normally run into the inlet manifold.

     

    I may be barking up the wrong tree here!

     

    As always your comments would be most appreciated. 

     

    Thanks

    Hag

  14. I'm starting to think Major gremlin and looking for a new bottom end to rebuild (or if someone has one out there? you never know) Do you know how interchangeable the parts are between the different 1998cc suffixed engines? I currently have a KE suffix engine, I have assumed that the ML, HC, KE & KC parts would all be compatible with each other. My engine has flat piston tops and step running around each cylinder.

     

    Any help appreciated.

     

    Thanks

    Hag

  15. HI Steve & Pete thanks for the replies.

     

    Firstly it looked liked a black blob of something like oil residue/gunk, but the engine was still in the car so I couldn't physically get to it to examine closer, I blasted it away with an airline and oil through the gallery and it disappeared onto the garage floor somewhere.

     

    Definitely not got heat compensators fitted, they are the basic 150Cd, but in triple format.

     

    Using Millers 20/50 new oil, changed filter but I will check to see we don't have a break in the casing. I do have an oil leak again from the front of the engine, somewhere around timing cover, front plate & front of sump which I'm assuming won't help.

     

    Currently looking at this guide from a Healey site, which gives some clues to wear in engines based on oil pressure readings.

     

    www.wihealeyclub.org/files/Download/Oil%20Pressure%20Diagnostics.pdf       Link inserted by Admin

     

    Hoping it might help me evaluate the situation much better, really useful guide, have no idea how to post it as a link though, so you will need to copy & paste into browser if interested. 

     

    Hopefully the run out tomorrow will shed some light.

     

    Thanks

    Hag

    • Like 1
  16. Hi Pete and anyone, I have never come across temperature compensators, and have no idea what they might look like. I've fitted the heat shield because the tubuler SS manifold gets super hot under the carbs, read about it on another post so thought it might help and it seems to have. I'm just reading up on oil pressure, back to the old oil problem again. So I ran it gently on Sunday its definately not 40 - 60 psi at 2000RPM, more like 15/20, but it ran and it didn't cut out, which was nice for a change. But second trip went 3000RPM down dual carriage way, from memory it was around 50PSI but when I got home the pressure dropped off to pretty much nothing although it did continue to idle reasonably successfully.

    Got a friend coming round on Wednesday, we are going to take it out and take various readings as we go, can never remember the data when I get back.

    Again not sure where to go from here, I've checked pump, checked & replaced  relief valve, just looking at a few articles for insight into this problem. I think I may have more blockages in the system!

     

    any ideas anyone?

     

    Thanks

    Hag

  17. HI pete, thanks for the offer and it would have been nice to give her a bit of a run and have a cuppa but I've now got an issue with it cutting out when it gets warm. Oil feeder kit was a success but now she gets hot after about ten minutes and cuts out, more problems to solve! Just crafted a heat shield under the carbs as I think it may be fuel evaporation, but I guess thats a different post.

     

    Have fun at the show.

     

    Hag

  18. Hi Pete, my warn out brain was probably clutching at straws! But its a real puzzle, I've continued down the line of not having an external feed but I have to agree that this seems the only way to ensure I get enough(or any) oil up there. Secretly I bought one last month, under a secret name 'Just in Case', lucky I did. 

     

    Thanks for all your help again, fingers crossed this is it for this Post.

     

    See you at some shows. 

     

    Haggis

  19. Hello again, a little update from my previous post. I do, at last have oil getting to my rocker shaft, hurray! , but it still doesn't seem to reach the front 6 rockers., boo!.

    So another post from me on this if anyone can help or let me know if i'm completely wrong it will be appreciated.

    Now I have a MKI GT6 car fitted with MKIII engine ( KE series), I noticed when I was doing the sump that the steering rack didn't fit into the recess on the sump to accommodate it

    Now this means the engine is about an inch higher than the original, causing some rubbing on the inside of the bonnet.

    Pete said I should expect a dribble of oil at the rocker shaft, now knowing its reaching the first 6 rockers, is there a chance that the dribble is not making it far enough up the shaft, due to its angle?? 

    And does anyone know if the sumps on MKI & MKIII's are interchangeable?

    For your info 70psi Cold start up, 30psi warm tick over, result I think.

     

    As always your help on my continuing saga is always appreciated.

     

    Hag 

  20. Thanks Pete, Just good to know what to look for, I have filled the shaft this time with oil from the screw so have oil everywhere at the moment, (I was trying to prevent changing the rockers & shaft for the third time! ) I'll let it dry out a bit and give it another go, I'll fit the screw this time and look for minor dribbling, if no luck a restricted feed kit is going on.

     

    Thank for your help again.

     

    Hag

  21. Well I'm back from rebuilding my engine, and I still don't seem to have oil in the rocker, eeeek!. Now the engine has started and its run up to temperature, I have primed the rocker shaft with oil through the little screw access in the rear pedestal to make sure there is oil there and nothing comes out of the hole, no spurt, no dribble absolutely nothing! can anyone tell me what I should see? I assume that with the screw missing the pressure will drop on the engine as it's a common cause of pressure drop, does this mean the shaft isn't pressurised, so therefore no oil? should the rockers be dripping/spurting with oil when running?

     

    As always your help would be appreciated, its a beautiful car, I just want to drive it now, think I might have to fit the rocker feed Kit!

     

    Thanks

    Hag

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