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haggis

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Posts posted by haggis

  1. Thanks Pete & JohnD for all your time trying to explain to a simpleton, I have both full set ups, Singlex & Duplex, I think I'll set it up with the original Singlex and then order a new 4 holed duplex sprocket for the Cam (eventually) and hopefully it will be a straight swap! hurray, brain ache gone.

     

    no doubt there will be more questions, but for now thanks for your help.

     

    Hag

  2. Thanks John, it does sound so complicated, its just my small brain and the fear of doing it wrong. 

     

    Regarding the 'Dead Stop' I see from your picture its a piece of metal screwed into the cylinder bolt holes, the screw in the middle is set down into the chamber, I'm assuming it doesn't matter how long this is? I always thought that just getting the piston to very top was TDC?

     

    I have no idea what a 'am grinder' is, am i completely stupid? any idea of the magic number?I guess max lift is the peak of the cam lobe?

     

    I do have both original sprockets, I guess I could just put them on and then change for the duplex in the best position? but how accurate is this? i guess it depends on the factory setting it correctly in the first place.

     

    ideally get a four holed duplex sprocket?

     

    I will go out there tomorrow night and see if i can suss it out.

     

    Thanks Hag

  3. Hi Pete, as clear as mud! Your right difficult to explain in writing, I'm sure in reality it's simple in reality.

    I'm assuming the 2 holed sprocket makes no difference?

    How do I now if I have the cam that needs retarding by 2 degrees?

    Thanks, hag

    Ps gearbox went in nice, thanks for all your help.

  4. Hi everyone, just need to ask a few questions about Cam timing, I have installed a rebuilt short engine and gearbox over the weekend to my GT6 Mk1. its a late HC vitessse engine with standard cam, and i have a DTI, stand and cam timing disc all ready to go.

     

    Unfortunately the cylinder head is still in the shop and wanting to make progress.

     

    Can I still do the cam timing without the cylinder head installed? is it easier with the head on?

     

    The cam sprocket is duplex and was originally fitted to a Kent Cam (the engine wrecker and reason for rebuild) but it only has 2 holes!, the other posts on here talk about original sprockets having 4 holes and 1/4 tooth adjustments, will this make it more difficult to get it accurate?

     

    I think I need some cam data? to get it accurate, does anyone know what this might be, and how it is used?

     

    so many questions, so little time, else I'll never make it to Santa Pod.

     

    Help always appreciated.

     

    Thanks

    Hag

     

     

     

  5. Hi everyone, not sure if I'm allowed to do this (possible infringement, undue prominence and all that stuff) but just wanted to tell anyone interested about a machine shop called Owlesbury Crankshaft Services (there are other machine shops out there), in Winchester, Hampshire. I don't think there are many left in these parts, but I wanted to let you know what a fantastic service they have provided for me in machining my engine components for a rebuild. 

     

    There's an old saying in business ' do a good job, the customer will tell all their friends, do a bad one, they will tell EVERYONE!', with the rise of technology I can now tell everyone. 

     

    Very Experienced, a little bit grumpy on the phone, (I would advise going to see them) and extremely busy they managed to do everything to a fantastic standard in a short period of time, and I cannot recommend them highly enough.

     

    Hope thats of help to someone looking for this type of service.

     

    Thanks

    Hag 

    Just a little sample below as a teaser.

     

    tn_gallery_341_86_325873.jpg

  6. Hi everyone, having a bit of a wobble with my engine rebuild i'm undertaking at the moment, I have purchased a new set of con rod bolts and accidentaly torqued them up to the mains torque wrench settings 55 to 60b/ft. Now I undid them the next day and they all torqued up nicely to the correct settings 36 - 42 lb-ft, do I have anything to worry about? or should they be replaced?

     

    Thanks

    Hag 

     

     

  7. Hi all, anyone got any tips on removing small end bearings from the conrods?, I haven't tried anything as yet, but I seem to remember something in the past about putting them in the freezer?. Any advice greatly appreciated.

     

    Thanks

    Hag

  8. Hi, I'm rebuilding a late mk2 Vitesse engine to go on my gt6, having had the machine work done on the block I'm a little confused about the ring gapping, it would appear I have gaps of .45mm in the rings on the cylinders, the technical books I've read basically say max .30mm can anyone confirm these sizes for me? Machine shop says that they are as good as the quality of the rings (county) and not to worry, (they would say that)

    Any feedback greatly appreciated.

     

    Hag

  9. Hi Robin, I'm swapping because I had serious oil pressure problems with the GT6 engine, came down to aftermarket cam ruining the block journals, I mean completed mashed and the block was a write off. It was fitted to my MK1 GT6, so the engine wasn't original anyhow. I sourced a late MK2 Vitesse engine that had been refurbed many years ago and never ran in the hope that I could strip, clean & Just check before reassembling, hoping to save on machining costs. Bottom line here was it needed reboring and the crank needed regrinding but the GT6 block was knackered so not much choice really. If I could have saved the gt6 engine I would have done, luckily the guy I bought the vitesse engine off threw in an overdrive gearbox & prop, a complete rotoflex rear suspension set up, plus a complete front suspension set up as well.

     

    Thanks

    Hag

  10. Hi Robin, I have the opposite going on as I write. I'm swapping a Mk3 GT6 engine for a MK2 Vitesse engine and I'm pretty sure that the two flywheels are identical (well mine are anyhow). If it were me then I would refurb your original engine especially if it has matching numbers that go with the car, theres not much in the two except the compression ratio which you can increase in the late Vitesse with a bit of number crunching and skimming the head. You will need to take apart the GT6 engine anyhow when/if you get it, save yourself the pain having two engines that need machining and work with the one you have got, I have learnt from experience to trust no one! unless you have built it yourself or had a professional do it save yourself the grief.

     

    Hope that helps

    Hag

     

     

     

  11. Hi, just wondering does anyone have any actual plans, with dimensions and details on a sump baffle for a late Vitesse engine? there seems to be lots of lovely pictures out there but not much technically? can anyone help? 

     

    Thanks

    HAg

     

     

  12. Hello everyone, I have decided to update my post with some information regarding my oil starvation problem. Firstly in the end I have removed and fully stripped my engine as nothing I did solved the problem. Its been in the machine shop and has been 'written off' by the shop! Well it all came down to the Cam, the cam journals were completely mashed up by the Kent cam and as the engine was modified I think the previous person just 'chucked' a cam in without checking the journal & cam tolerances first. Now in response to this I have bought a second hand engine to remanufacturer (you may have seen my other posts about engine compatibility and pistons?) all appears fine including the cam journals but they are on the edge of tolerances, the question is if I plan to introduce a different cam at some point, should I as a matter of course get the cam housing 'Line bored' to receive cam bearings? and if so does anyone know a decent stockist?

     

    Thanks again,

    Hag

  13. Hi all, so I've only gone and done it and bought a gearbox with D type overdrive for my GT6 on eBay.  now I've read all the stuff about checking the overdrive solenoid etc for the overdrive unit but can't find any info on physically checking the gearbox, are there any checks that I do to check the gearbox without it being fitted in the car?

    I dread the idea of fitting it along with the engine going a mile up the road and having to return home & removing it immediately. I guess the simple answer is just to take it to Mike Papworth (there are other gearbox people out there but none as good in my opinion), but there must be some way to check it prior to this inevitable journey.

    Its a late 3 rail gearbox for a vitesse, with oil in! (Which I thought was a good sign)

    You never know it might be perfect, but hold on I did buy it off the dreaded Fleabay.

     

    thanks

    Hag.

  14. HI Doug. It defies my simple theory, if you changed the pistons to flat tops and didn't change the head the Compression Ratio would have too low and I would imagine it would have run like a snail. but you've had no problems, sounds like they either swapped heads or they are actually domed pistons and that 10% error has crept in. I've had a vitesse for 28years i've had the head off probably 10 times and I can't remember what pistons it has installed.

     

    Thanks though, good to hear from you.

     

    Hag

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