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haggis

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Posts posted by haggis

  2. Engine misfire when hot

    in Engine

    Posted

    Hi Dave & anglefire, thanks for the responses , carbs and fuel lines are heat shrouded/protected so don’t think I’m having issues there, carbs are just warm when up to temperature.  The heat shield in the pic is really effective. 

    The engine is HC prefix from a later vitesse and came with Lucas dizzy. Red rotor arm, magnetronic ignition, cap and leads all replaced 2 years ago, only done 2k mikes since. I was considering moving the coil away from the engine and mounting somewhere on the bulkhead, as it’s just so hot. Any thoughts? 

    Thanks 

    hag 

    13B48D31-9162-470D-9EBE-04F4B9143E40.jpeg

  3. Engine misfire when hot

    in Engine

    Posted

    Hi all, trying to sort a misfire out on my Gt6 mk1. Initially I thought it was the coil, had a good read of the posts on here, and thought I’d covered everything. So open to suggestions really. it happens when hot, on a day like today, car starts to lose power, eventually coughing, spluttering and finally backfiring when under load. Let it cool down all fine again for a bit. I’ve looked at the ballast situation, looked at my wiring and no obvious signs of ballast resistor or wire, straight forward white/red from starter to fuse board, white to coil from ignoition. No pink flecks or white and yellow wires so have assumed not ballast. Changed to a good quality coil of 4.5ohm, same imp as rubbish inter motor one that was on there ( on local tuners advice, it’s the only one he had! ) changed back to points and condenser, to check the module, still got the problem? I’ve assumed it’s not fuel as I’ve had this problem before and you don’t get all the backfiring ‘popping’ stuff with the power drop. The engine has only covered a few thousand miles since rebuild, but the only thing I didn’t touch was the distributor. It does appear to have a slightly wobbly base plate, I was considering replacing with an complete electronic unit from the club shop if the module was found faulty, but I don’t think that’s the problem as the points proved. Was planning to take it to SEM next weekend, but not looking to hopeful at the moment. ☹️

    As always any help appreciated. 

    Thanks

    hag

  5. oil feed

    in Engine

    Posted

    Same here, exactly the same problem on my now scrap engine. Valve springs too strong, I had an inner & outer spring. Looked back over PO’s previous invoices and he had fitted a Kent cam, wasn’t in there when I took it apart, wrecked the block cam journals. Ran perfect until it got to temperature. Apparently they can be line bored and bearings inserted, but specialist job. I bought a second hand engine in the end. 

    Good luck, I know what you’ve been through. 

    Hag 

  6. GT6 mk3 with Triumph 2000 engine cyl head torque?

    in Engine

    Posted

    Hi algy, I did post this about a year ago and I believed the general consensus was to put a thin layer (I had assumed instant gasket) in the two places mentioned, I was thinking loctite SI5980 as this has worked really well in my engine rebuild, no leaks to date anywhere Except at the Head/block of course. It has reduced to a minor seepage now, which is annoying but it’s easier to wipe it off than go through removing the head and doing it again!

    Head & block both skimmed, torqued cold & hot, initially the head wouldn’t torque down as the washers(as you mention) were rubbish, so replaced with new and r torqued again twice. 

    Not sure how to add the previous post. 

    Hag 

    • Thanks 1

  11. Colin Bengree

    in Cooling System

    Posted

    Hi Colin, same engine as yours 2.0 Ltr, carbs came with the car. It’s a triple stromberg set up with an American ‘goodparts’ inlet manifold. Managed to get them set up well and it runs better than expected. 

    Hag 

  12. Colin Bengree

    in Cooling System

    Posted

    Hi Colin, you could try making your own heat shield, you can buy material from demon tweets, car builder, etc, mine works a treat my carbs are cold even after a long hot run, but I do have my exhaust wrapped as well. I would look at fuel pump & tank breather while you are waiting for the new shiny bits to arrive. 

    Good luck

    hag 

    19C1CB08-622C-4A45-B804-F9C801B7D035.jpeg

  14. Stromberg leak, again!

    in Fuel System

    Posted

    Hi Pete, well initially I bought some from Rimmers but they worse, so went to Canley in the end, better but don’t seem to last long. Should they be slack enough to be really easily turned? I assumed they need at least need a bit of grip to keep them in position? 

    Thanks 

    hag 

  17. Stromberg leak, again!

    in Fuel System

    Posted

    Hi everyone, I seem to be replacing rubber ‘o’ Rings from the brass adjustable jet on the bottom of a stromberg on a regular basis, as they just keep leaking. I have a couple of spare carbs and have checked them all and the adjustable jet seems too loose in the brass jet holder and moves around a bit in all of them, is this normal? I’m assuming these things can’t really wear as the tolerance is in the ‘O’ ring. It’s not leaking from the brass jet holder/ float chamber housing ( the big O ring) always on the adjustable jet.

    Any ideas how to stop it leaking? 

    I’ve looked at all the usual suppliers but can’t find replacement jet holders,  Can you buy new ones somewhere? 

    Thanks as always. 

    Hag 

  18. Gearbox replacement

    in Gearbox & Overdrive

    Posted

    Hi Wayne, just a little reminder about the washer behind the clutch Clevis pin, I didn’t do it and have to continually keep my foot lightly on the clutch pedal, wish someone had reminded me. It’s to do with the new thrust bearings being slightly smaller than original. 

    Good luck with the fit tomorrow. 

    Hag 

  20. The only cold Gt6 driver

    in Bodywork & Fittings

    Posted

    Hi Pete, temp spot on for engine, (it does have a golf rad fitted) I did check the valve and gave heater a blast through with a hose a few months back when I was doing the rad. It did squirt a bit of rusty water out but seemed to flow very well, I was wondering if someone has bypassed the matrix with a straight pipe through the heater box ? Is that possible? 

    Thanks hag 

  21. The only cold Gt6 driver

    in Bodywork & Fittings

    Posted

    Well contrary to popular belief, not all Gt6 drivers wear shorts. Having ‘dynamatted’ my mk1 over the winter it would appear that my heater doesn’t work. I took my car today, but had to return to get my woolly hat, gloves and an extra fleece! My question is how easy are they to take out with the interior in? Or what’s the minimum I have to take out to get access? 

    Thanks

    hag 

  24. Gt6 Mk 1 sunvisors

    in Bodywork & Fittings

    Posted

    Hi colin, now that is a great idea! I’m sure we all have boxes full of Triumph bits that could help fellow members out, what say you forum people? A bit like ‘parts wanted’ but on the forum? 

    Thanks everyone for your replies, I’ll keep looking, unless someone has one they can measure I could make my own? 

    Thanks

    hag 

  25. Gt6 Mk 1 sunvisors

    in Bodywork & Fittings

    Posted

    Hi all, been trying to source a part to get my sunvisors on, anyone got one of these lying around? Part no 710061, think it was fitted to early spitfires too. It’s the bit that fixes to the roof with two bent pivot bars attached, or anyone know of another type that might fit?  It’s a long shot, and not 100% sure the forum is meant for this but worth a try. 

    Thanks 

    hag 

    67D9E75A-4CB3-4C3E-9917-0F50776AEB0E.jpeg

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