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haggis

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Posts posted by haggis

  1. Hi Thrusterman, reading this thread not sure if the guy in Hampshire mentioned is called Tom Airey in Bramdean near winchester, he runs 'Airey Tuning' and knows his onions when it comes to tuning and especially carburettors. He ain't cheap now at a round £100/£120 per carb but he has a rolling road and he's good old skool, he transformed my vitesse 6 from a 59BHP car to an 80BHP car in an hour. I had tried home tuning for twenty years but never again, its worth every penny to go to someone who knows what they are doing, but its best to have all the ancillaries in tip top condition. I got triple Strombergs, with a bespoke manifold on another car but I think a pair of HS6's as mentioned would be better and probably not drink so much.

     

    Haggis 

  2. Hi everyone/anyone, can someone confirm if I need an engine earth lead on my GT6? I have one on my Vitesse from the front engine plate to the steering rack mount, but not on my GT6. Both are converted to negative earth and run alternators, what might the effects be of not having one.

     

    Haggis

  3. Hi sean, I've got the same new Rimmer rack as you, and have no idea how to put more grease in, if you do find out let me know. I fitted polybush rack rubbers myself and they fitted just like yours, drove it for the summer, hated the feedback so removed and fitted the solid rack mounts. Like them so much have fitted them on both my cars now, also bonus of a little more clearance to the sump on my GT6.

     

    Thanks

    Jason

  4. HI everyone, as recommended, I'am fitting some relays to my headlight circuits, now its a vitesse with twin headlights, do I need to fit 3 no relays?

     

    I have bought 30amp fused relays and have assumed they will all need a separate live battery feed (i.e x3) and also assume they can share a earth? 

     

    Obviously the way I see it (I don't do electrics very well) there are only two sets of direct feeds for the headlights in the loom, Blue/White & Blue/Red, in the existing loom the blue/white & earths are 'Piggy Backed' across the headlights (main beam, both headlights on) and the Blue/Red is on its own (assuming dipped headlight) but all sharing the same earth(black).

     

    It might just be simpler to ask if anyone has a wiring diagram with relays for twin headlights?

     

    and also if anyone has fitted the relays on the vertical bit of bonnet between wheel arch & bonnet top, where the horn is mounted, with success?

     

    Thanks

    Hag

  5. Well I eventually got around to pulling the cam, a little bit too much end float but cam in great condition, with the benefit of a new looking pulley and a double timing chain too. Now when I stared down cam hole I noticed a big blob of black stuff about the 2 o'clock position on the rear journal, I think I've found the culprit! with some persistant air blowing I think I've cleared the blockage. Its difficult to see/access with the engine still in the car, so stuck some oil into the rear gallery access hole, fired some air behind it and hey presto, a perfect squirt of oil into the rear journal. RESULT!

     

    Engine starting to go back together now, still got me fingers crossed It works, sump gone on easy with the rack removed, haven't fitted the rack yet but should be easy if I cut the 'U' bolts down.

     

    I'm thinking, if all this doesn't work (trying not too be negative) I will fit a restricted rocker feed kit as a temporary measure so i can still get some summer triumph fun in, and whip it out next year. It would appear from the previous owners invoices that one was bought some time ago, not sure if it was ever fitted. Is there any way of telling?

     

    I'll let you know how it goes.

     

    Thanks

    Hag

  6. Thanks Pete, I think the swear box could probably pay for a professional rebuild already! Sometimes you kind of know what to do but its reassuring to find people with more knowledge to help for guidance, and thats what this forum is for, I hope one day to be able to dispatch some of my Triumph wisdom on to others too. 

    I'll let you know what happens.

     

    Thanks

    Hag

  7. HI Pete, thanks for your response, I decided to take the sump off in situ before I read the message. What a job, but so much easier if you take the steering rack out, why do they make the steering rack 'U' bolts so long, I'm cutting mine down on the way back in. I had some grey sludge in the sump (expected) although a bit gritty and a really good oil pump, which was all easily within tolerance and lots to go. I guess the question is where do I go from here? I've found nothing wrong so far, air passes through the hole down to the cam when I rotate it, air passes through the gallery into the sump? I was thinking as I've gone this far to remove the Cam to check the oil grooves as I have a leak in the front cover oil seal. Any suggestions of where to blow air next? or any suggestions generally? I think in hindsight I should have primed the rocker shaft with oil through the little retaining screw hole before proceeding (what a numpty) but I assumed it would fill up quickly from the pump, but I'm guessing it wouldn't have been long before the oil ran out.

     

     Thanks Hag 

  8. Well I tried turning it over on the starter but no oil out of hole in the block! :( I did try compressed air down through the hole into the engine and the tone changed as I turned the engine over by hand on the crank, which I would assume means that the cam groove is working, but no oil. Is this because there is no pressure build up to help circulate around the engine?i.e the head is removed and the bowels of the engine are open through gaps between the cam followers for the oil to drop down to the sump? or am I talking absolute nonsense?

    I think there is only way to truly tell and that is to strip it all down, cam, sump, pump an all! Any advice welcome.

     

    Thanks

    Hag

  9. Hi Pete & Clive , thanks for your responses, rocker completely dry not just front end ones, I will inevitably take the shaft apart and have a good look when I start putting back together. I'll have a go at moving the cam and seeing if I can get the holes to align. Do you know, and this may be silly question, but can I turn over the engine with no head on to see if the pump is pushing the oil up through the engine block? or will I cause damage?

     

    Hag

  10. Hi Pete, normal kind of 60psi driving dropping down to 20psi when warm for tick over, but I think this is a blockage. I've taken the head off and it looks rather good, I will give it a good squirt through and hopefully shift this blockage.

     

    Thanks

    Hag

  11. Hi Scrapman, no don't know history of engine, have no idea if it had a external feed, as there was a little bit of oil in the original rocker I'm assuming I blocked it further with the flush. Bottom line the heads coming off tonight! and if i can't find anything the sumps coming off tomorrow! It will be an interesting voyage of discovery to see if the previous owner was a complete Numpty or not. I was really hoping after 37 years of maintaining my lovely 1600 vitesse that my next purchased one would require nothing but driving and a bit of routine maintenance, but it is a Triumph, and done to someone else's standards, I should have known better. But it is awesome looking & sounding can't wait to drive it for more than ten miles before it breaks down.

     

    Thanks

    Hag

  12. HI Pete, yes run and driven 15miles, lifted the cover off and it looked and the front 3 sets of rockers were completely grey. 

    I don't know if anyone has any experience of Kent cams, are there any known problems with the oil pick up to the rocker??

    Clutching at straws really I know they are very well engineered product, I'm guessing the head needs to come off.  :(

     

    Hag

  13. Hi John D, thanks for the reply, you got me thinking :huh:(i think this is a puzzled face?) how long is too long for the bolt to the rear of the head? I've noticed there is two copper washers on it and wondering if the idiot who owned it before has put a longer bolt in! In my mind when I removed it I did think it seemed long or the possibility it might be long, mine has 10mm of thread past the copper washer, any idea if this is too long? ultimately I think the head will need to come off, but just imagine if it was just a bolt that was too long!.

     

    Thanks

    Hag

  14. Hi Pete, thanks for the early reply, I have checked the head rear thread and forced oil through the rocker which flowed out at this point, which I assumed to mean there isn't a blockage in the head. Any idea whether the gallery should have oil in it after left not started for a week or two? I have looked at both sides of the story for the external rocker feed and decided this is not a good option, so no intention of doing this although it would appear to be the perfect solution.  I think maybe the best solution will be to take the head off and blow all passages out, but I'll give the wire trick a go.

     

    Thanks

    Hag

  15. Hello, can anyone help me on this one, got a GT6 mk3 engine in a Mk1, its not playing nice at the moment. I have just replaced the rocker shaft assembly with a completely new one as the old one lacked lubrication at the front of the engine and 'cooked' the other day. new assembly installed, started her up ran great, got hot, ran like a bag of spanners. It would appear I have absolutely no oil coming up to the rocker for lubrication, I have  no intention in fitted one of these after market external feeds, but was wondering if anyone had any idea where the most likely place the blockage would be? I have removed the oil cooler feeds and emptied this out, i have also removed the complete oil filter & housing and both items are clear and had oil in them. I removed the 3 no external plugs to the gallery first and there was no oil coming out of them at all? Now the car hasn't run for a week or so, should I expect to find oil in the gallery at all times or should I expect it to be empty as the oil has dropped into the sump? Have removed the screw out of the rocker assembly and squirted oil in, this fills the shaft and runs out the back of the head via the plug to the rear. I'm thinking catastrophic failure of the oil pump, or a blockage in the engine , but it starts with great oil pressure reading!

    I had just done a flush and put new oil & filters in after the first rocker failure, and I did pull out 2 no tiny 'O'rings from under the rocker cover on two occasions that were completely in tact. 

    I'm puzzled about where to start looking really, any ideas?

     

    Thanks

    Hag

  16. HI everyone, thanks for all your posts, I've only just managed to sign back on to the Forum as I forgot my password. I will definately fit a relay to my headlights and I added a reverse light which I'm sure could also do with one as well. The good news is the relay was a great success I used an 8amp cable and wired direct to the battery and result, the idle does drop slightly when the fan kicks in but she keeps on running :) but I have some more serious engine problems to deal with now. :(

     

    Thanks for all your help.

     

    Hag

  17. Hi Richard, thanks for the diagram, there are so many on the internet and none of them seemed relevant, managed to wire a new relay and get the fan working again just need a test drive to see if its one of my problems solved. Its just off then on now.

    So many problems, so little time. (trying to get to SEM next Sunday)

     

    Thanks

    Hag

  18. Hi and thanks for all the responses, I've just been out and checked and it looks like its connected to the existing loom, utilising the Green/White wire from the front indicator for its power!, which should mean its not from the ignition (as in principle, the indicators only work when the ignition is on), but i will check this. I have no idea when the fan was fitted it came with the car, which I've had less than a month, which has a lot of issues!  Sounds like I should wire it straight from the battery with an inline fuse of 30Amps. Being a bit special when it comes to electrics, I'm assuming a 5amp cable won't be sufficient?

     

    Hag

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