Paul Amey
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Posts posted by Paul Amey
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I've got the diff out my Vitesse at the moment. Can anyone tell me what shape the top mounting point (rear mountings nearest the back of the car) bolt holes are suppose to be please? I ask because all four holes for the two mountings on mine are round with a slot in them, they are all the same. I;m wondering why.
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22 hours ago, Gary Flinn said:
Set yourself a limit and don't go over it?!!
Famous last words😆
Yes, still working on what that should be at the moment.
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On 11/07/2023 at 21:47, Paul Amey said:
I'll go and have a look at it.
I had a look at it, it is very very good.
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12 hours ago, Gary Flinn said:
Hi Paul
It does look a very nice and well restored car.
Gary
I'll go and have a look at it.
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Has anyone looked at Mathewson's web site for the July auction? Lot212 a very nice Herald.
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Thanks, I did visit and decided it was worth £2500 0f my pounds. I did bid but it sold for a bit more.
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Any thoughts on the Toledo, lot 494 at Mathewson's?
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8 hours ago, trigolf said:
For a 3.89 recon, £930.00 ( includes £300.00 surcharge). Could'nt afford new Crw/p. I've only just crawled out from underneath, after wrestling it in. Knackered now!
Thanks, yes I thought that it would be fun to refit when I was dropping mine out.
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On 01/05/2023 at 16:36, trigolf said:
Afternoon all,
Just bought a recon diff from Fitchetts and will be fitting it next week hopefully. Browsing ' tinterwebb, I see that Dynolite do a " No Noise EP85W-140 oil. It's GL5 spec but clearly states that its compatible with bronze,copper and brass components. I'm hoping the diff will be quiet anyway, but wondered about filling it with this stuff to give it the best chance of a reasonable lifespan. Anyone tried it?
What price are Fitchetts charging for a diff?
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14 hours ago, johny said:
Will you give it a bit of love beforehand? Clean, paint, new rubber spacers etc?
Oh yes, I will clean everything first and access what needs to be replaced etc. I'm leaning towards a replacement diff. I will inspect the spring and lubricate it at least, I only want to put it back once.
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14 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
no only on rotaflex
a trolley/ jack to raise the upright and shaft up into place till you hook up the shocker
Thank you.
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On 20/04/2023 at 07:14, NonMember said:
No, you don't. That's only needed for the Mk2 suspension. The swing axle can be done as johny said, or even easier.
Put a jack under the vertical link to take the weight off the shock absorber, then undo the UJ from the diff before taking the shock off. Lower the jack and undo the spring eye bolt. The half shaft is then free. With both sides done, there's no tension on the spring any more and you can just unbolt it.
Do you need anything special to put the spring back?
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6 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
yes apart from the eye bolt to the upright needs removing
remember you need enough side space to get the spring out the car , you will need to remove one row of studs to get the spring out as the clamps wont clear the studs
Pete
Thanks, I'm taking the diff out as well.
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On 20/04/2023 at 14:27, Paul Amey said:
Thankyou very much!
Right, I've given this a good looking at and have disconnected the shock absorber, u/j bolts brake cable and flexi brake pipe on one side. I conclude that with both shocks disconnected the leaf spring is basically just bolted to the diff. I think that's right?
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7 hours ago, NonMember said:
No, you don't. That's only needed for the Mk2 suspension. The swing axle can be done as johny said, or even easier.
Put a jack under the vertical link to take the weight off the shock absorber, then undo the UJ from the diff before taking the shock off. Lower the jack and undo the spring eye bolt. The half shaft is then free. With both sides done, there's no tension on the spring any more and you can just unbolt it.
Thankyou very much!
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On this subject I need to remove the diff from my Mk1 Vitesse. I also want to remove the rear road spring. The manual talks about inserting a bar for tensioning the spring or something. I'm unsure what is meant by this.
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1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:
I think Paul wants the original with correct knob? I have a few of them second-hand but need to know what the original correct one is like so I can compare; most of mine are ex-Herald.
Thanks for your reply Colin. Yes, I'm after the original factory fit choke cable. The car came to me with what looked like a 1980's Marina/ Allegro style cable on it.
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23 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
James Paddock appears to have them:
https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/choke-cable-mk1-111-2
Unless that's not close to the original, or there's some particular part you require?
Yes, James Paddock have it listed but the system won't let an order be placed as they are out of stock. Rimmer's are also quoting back order on the item. I really want to put the right choke cable on (mk1 Vitesse 2.0 litre)
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Next question does anyone have a 401458 mk1 choke cable for sale please?
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I've never heard that word lalochezia before. Thanks for the part number.
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Does anyone know the part number for a choke cable on a Vitesse mk1 please?
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On 06/07/2022 at 15:37, Phil C said:
Just finished re-veneering the dash on my Mk2 Vitesse and thought I would share my experience for anyone else considering doing the same.
It goes without saying, but photograph everything as you dismantle the dash to ensure it all goes back in the same place!
As can be seen the starting point was not too pretty but using advice gleaned from the forum I used a heat gun to carefully remove the old lacquer.
Once removed I could better inspect the existing veneer condition which was in a very poor state with cracks, chips and de-lamination. There were additional holes for accessories fitted by the PO. It was at this stage I decided to replace it.
Some advice is to remove old veneer by sanding but mine was so dry and brittle I found it came off with a little gentle scraping. This exposed the plywood dash which had also de-laminated in places with parts of the top layer broken off. I was told that, if possible, retain the original dash as replacements can cause all sorts of later fitting issues. This makes a lot of sense given the quality of many replacement parts these days!!
I therefore used wood filler to level up the plywood face. Care is needed when sanding the filler to ensure you do not remove any of the surrounding wood and everything remains flat.
I did not want to re-veneer the door cappings as they are not exactly flat which may have caused difficulties in gluing on the new veneer and their condition was not too bad. I therefore simply sanded these down and applied lacquer to establish the grain/colour to get for the dash to match. The best way would be to take a sample along to the veneer shop but I am nowhere near so had to guess from pictures online. Straight Grained American Walnut has been suggested as the original used by Triumph but this did appear too grey. In the end I settled for Red Mahogany, the grain was not a good match but the colour was.
I used the Veneer Hub ( https://www.thewoodveneerhub.co.uk ) and bought plain veneer at around £15/sheet (enough to do two dashboards). You can get more expensive iron-on options etc.
This is the plywood following filling and sanding with the Veneer ready to apply
I used standard waterproof wood glue and applied it to the dash, paying particular attention to the edges.
Then carefully laid the dash on to the veneer and covered the whole thing with a polythene sheet to avoid sticking.
Then clamped between two 25mm MDF planks. Use as many clamps as you can!
I left this for about 4 hours and then carefully opened it to check if any glue had weeped through the veneer. It had so I used a wet cloth to remove it. I then clamped it back together and left it overnight. This stage is not essential as the excess glue can be removed later by sanding once fully set but can be more difficult.
Once fully dry (24hrs) I removed the clamps again and very carefully trimmed off the excess veneer and cut out the instrument/switch apertures. I used a craft knife with a curved blade which I changed frequently. Particular care had to be taken with the glove box aperture because ideally you want to use this veneer to cover the door and get a nice match of grain across the dash. Same goes for the switch panel but here you have more room for error as the veneer required is much smaller than the aperture.
Once done the edges were all sanded smooth and I sanded the face with 1200 grade.
Here is the veneered dash components ready for lacquer. Note the matching door veneer grain 😎
I decided to use a cellulose lacquer in order that I might achieve a reasonably glossy finish. It also has the advantage of reduced drying time. I applied 5 coats of lacquer by brush, lightly sanding between each, building up a nice thick covering. (Note: if you have used any kind of wood stain don't use a solvent based finish as this will dissolve the stain and create a blotchy colour. With stains best use a water based finish.)
I left the lacquer for a week to fully go off before trying to polish it.
I used my DA with 1500 grade to flat back all the lacquer t a matt finish (a block will do but will be much harder). I then repeated with 3000 grade (3M Trizact) before using a cutting compound by hand. To finish off I simply polished it.
I am very pleased with the result.
The total costs were the Veneer (£15), wood filler (£8) and the Lacquer (£13). Everything else I had in stock from painting the body last year.
The cheapest quote I got was £500 (dash + cappings) so I am quite chuffed.
Is the Melamine lacquer cellulose?
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22 hours ago, Peter Truman said:
My dad brought a new Volvo 164 in 1972 & just before starting a 3 week Scotland & Ireland tour we noticed an oil leak from the front timing chain cover, a damaged gasket, he didn't have time to put the car in for warranty work so I trimmed the protruding gasket off and neatly painted over the outside of the covers joint with Gasket Goo, stopped the leak it was never repaired. The car was shipped to Aus in 74 and he traded it in in 1980 for a new Toyota Crown with the works separate AC & heating controls front & rear, also radio electric seats incl lumber tension, rear bench seat where the squab height could be altered and the backrest angle changed, in boot car fridge & cabin air filters for the front and rear compartments, but funnily it didn't have a sunroof?
My Vitesse diff had a slight dampness after a strip down & a new but very thin gasket from the gasket joint no drips as such. I cleaned it well and repeated my 1072 Volvo fix thoughly cleaning the external joint & using an Aero Gasket non setting Joint material (non silicon) it appears to be working. Can you still get the orange Gasket Goo as it surface dried so would be better, can't find it here in Aus.
That's interesting, thanks.
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23 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
dont go polishing it will you Ha !
Pete
I was going to have it chromed!
Differential mountings
in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
Posted
These slots are horizontal , I thought it was wear as the rear mounting bolts were not very tight when I removed the diff. Examining them they all appear very similar.