Paul Amey
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Posts posted by Paul Amey
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4 hours ago, NonMember said:
You don't need that tool for a Mk1. Save your money.
Argh, thank you.
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14 hours ago, clive said:
Swingspring is a later design of spring used on later spit/gt6, and is flatter. So easier to work with.
A spring lifter is used as some cars (certainly rotoflex, and I am unsure about mk1 vit/heralds) have a very arched spring that is still under tension when the car is jacked up, so teh spring lifter is used to well, lift the end of teh spring so it can be undone. It is a length of bar with a couple of U brackets. I make one with a lenth of scaffold pole and some exhaust clamps, but have since made a copy as per the farctory WSM. The club sells them
Right, thank you. I think I will strip everything out of the back end and replace the spring as well. I'll be on to the shop for that tool. Thanks again.
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2 hours ago, clive said:
Rear up in teh air, properly supported on axle stands.
Drop the exhaust, undo prop.
This next bit depends.... my experience is mainly with swingsprings. With those, I can undo teh 4 (in your case 6) studs on top of the diff and all stays in place. Then undo the diff to drivesghaft bolts. You may need to takle it slightly differently, maybe use a spring lifter??
Some cars have a single ong rear diff bolt, I use a ring spanner on teh nut, and a couple of extension bars so I can undo teh bolt from outside the car. It may require a UJ socket or a "wobble bar" to help alignment. Some cars, and I think Vitesse is one, use 2 smaller bolts at the rear of the diff. You should just get it all free and nuts off. Now a decent trolly jack under the diff, some tie the diff to the TJ, but if you have a good sized one you should be OK (I have never tied one) Remove the rear bolt/s, undo the front mounts and flick off the washer and rubber disc. Now lower the jack a bit, you may need a bar to "ease" the diff free, dropping it nose-down and with some wiggling and again a bar the rear mounts will slide out. Job done.
ok, I got all that up to undo prop. What are swingsprings and spring lifter please?
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How bigger job is it to drop the diff out of a Vitesse mk1? Mine has oil leaks and generally looks a mess.
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I think they used European and American walnut. I have two wooden dash panels one is light wood and the other dark wood.
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On 23/12/2022 at 20:44, PeteH said:
European/English Walnut:-
American (Black) Walnut:-
Pete
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7 hours ago, Gary Flinn said:
I thought it was American Walnut?
Hi Gary, yeah the vote is for walnut, apparently there is European walnut as well.
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7 hours ago, trigolf said:
I seem to recall thats its 'American Maple' ?...
Argh ok, an antiques man said he thought it was European walnut this afternoon.
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Does anyone know what wood they used on Vitesse dash panels and door tops?
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ok thanks.
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On 28/11/2022 at 20:12, PeteH said:
There are several Postings about on here from people who have re-veneered them?. Needs some care but can produce excellent results.
Pete
Thanks
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Thanks, I have the time but no clues as to the process. I have a man lined up to do it with the skills but he has no time .
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Does anyone know where to get a Triumph Vitesse wooden facia panel refurbished?
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On 11/11/2022 at 07:01, clive said:
Yep, I think there was a magazine article at that time. But it is something like the 3rd or 4th leaf down, it flattens the spring a bit.
Better option is a courier spring (stronger and much flatter). Or as Johny says, get the spring reset by a proper spring company (they often refuse new springs as the steel is not the correct grade, but OE ones they should have no issues with)
The simple answer of course is to just use a lowering block....
Thanks. I'll have a look at this over winter.
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On 11/11/2022 at 14:13, rlubikey said:
To lower your car with leaf spring suspension, people used to simply remove one (or more) leaves. Trouble is, this also lowers the spring rate - i.e. makes them softer. The smarter idea was to invert one or more of the leaves as this lowers while maintaining the original spring rate. However, I don't know if we can do that - isn't there a dimple on the other side of where the rubber button is?
But, as Clive says, a Courier spring (if you can find one) or a lowering block.
Cheers, Richard
Thanks for that.
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Yes I shall be there.
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Right, so last night I was in the pub with some friends and the old chap said that in the seventies his mate bought a Vitesse and inverted the rear leaf spring . This was done apparently to prevent the rear wheels from going in to negative camber. Has anyone heard of this before and is it a good idea?
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Afew years ago, I heard a story about a guy who had his Mk 1 Escort stolen. The thief's disabled the alarm on his house, broke in and got the keys for both the car on the drive and the Escort. pinched the Escort and put everything back whilst the family were on holiday. The Escort has never been seen since.
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17 hours ago, chrishawley said:
I can say with complete confidence that I don't know what it is.
But let's suppose it's got continuity back to the battery earth (or prove it with a multimeter). Then it must be an earth for something. So, hazarding a guess, some possibilities might be
earth for control box (if you are retaining this)
voltage stabiliser (if VS is on back of speedo then I think that has a 'eye' earth commoned to it)
wiper motor
starter soleniod base (if you still have this given you've gone pre-engaged.)
I'm probably well wide of the mark and I'd be interested ot know what is finally correct.
Yes thanks for your thoughts. I will earth it somewhere . It's black with a non insulted terminal and looks like a few other earths. But I will check first.
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45 minutes ago, dannyb said:
If it's the earth from battery to engine. connect it to the bellhousing.
Danny
It is a small gauge wire coming out of the loom, about four inches long with a ring connector .
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I'm building my Vitesse up basically from a box of bits mechanically. I've fitted a new wiring loom and upgraded to a Powerlite pre engaged starter motor. So, I am thinking the brown wire on the loom needs the terminal changing from a spade fitment to a ring terminal so that it can join the battery fed cable on the stud. Then the small white/red cable connects to the small terminal . But, I also have a black earth cable with a ring terminal on it. There is no obvious place on the starter motor to put this., Do I just earth it some where that is convenient, Any ideas?
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On 19/07/2022 at 13:10, Colin Lindsay said:
The topic has already been answered in the above posts but I've bookmarked a great explanation on a New Zealand site that I've referred to many times, so here's a link:
Many thanks.
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9 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
I watched 'Salvage Hunters Classic Cars' and they were having headlamp rings rechromed, at quite an expense. I didn't find it value for money especially as they were having the rusty bits cut out and replaced, again at great expense. I fitted replacements to my GT6 and they lasted twenty years with just a slight trace of rust on the lower edge where water collected.
Thanks, yeah, I'll probably replace them.
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3 hours ago, johny said:
theres also the quality to consider as theres chrome and theres chrome! Dont know about bezels but the replacement overriders available have nothing like the chrome of the originals so can deteriorate pretty quickly. However if its never going to get wet and is polished every weekend there shouldnt be a problem👍
Yes I agree on quality. But I think the one's I have are after market anyway. Also I've just noticed one of them is damaged.
My diff is bleeding!
in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
Posted
Thanks, the diff has an oil leak on the gasket as well as the pinion and it needs a good clean and paint. So I guess taking it out is justified,