cliff.b
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Posts posted by cliff.b
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4 minutes ago, Chris A said:
Effectively that, the diagram shows it on the input side of the stabiliser so yes 12v from ignition.
That's the same conclusion I have come to. I need to look at how I can link it in easily. The wire is soldered direct to the bulb holder which means I'll have to cut it and fit connectors. Although I have test cables I don't think I have a length of suitable cable in stock for a permanent replacement, visit to motor factor called for this week.
You could always wire a completely new circuit in temporarily. Take a new wire from any convenient 12v point, connect to any spare low wattage bulb & then to pressure switch. Hang bulb anywhere you can see it and go for a drive 👍
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"Looks like a complete check of the wire from stabiliser to bulb, bulb holder to sensor"
I don't think the supply voltage comes from the voltage stabilizer, believe it's 12v directly off the ignition switch to the bulb. If it were me, I would temporarily put a new piece of wire from the sensor to the bulb which should prove if the original is shorting or not.
Or if you have a meter, disconnect that wire at both ends and check for any resistance to ground. There shouldn't be any.
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14 hours ago, Mathew said:
Well done, why does a spanner go missing? You don't move from a spot but it disappears, only to reappear after you go to get another one.
It is a mystery and certainly happens all the time to me, not just tools either.
There is a theory that it is because as men, we evolved as hunters and are constantly scouring the horizon for Mammoths, or such like, but not noticing what is right in front of us.
Ladies, on the other hand, are supposed to have been gatherers, carefully inspecting and collecting everything around them and being careful not to poison the children. I suspect this is why they like shopping so much 🤔
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5 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
but the nice easy jobs are much better for the wallet
Pete
I will remember that when I am underneath it, cursing and looking for the spanner I need but can't find.
And then when I struggle to get up and go to the toolbox I can't find it in there either, because I was lying on top of it all along 😡
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Ahh, I have had a spot of luck. Driving it around I was getting the noise at 1800RPM in any gear. Sitting in the car stationary at 1800RPM I could hear it but not with the bonnet up. So set the engine ticking over at that speed and went all around it, decided it was coming from underneath and found the u bolt fixing the exhaust to the gearbox bracket is loose. Must have a resonant frequency that is hit at that engine speed. And with the bonnet up, all I could hear was the engine.
Oh well, have to get underneath it again I suppose 😒
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1 minute ago, Pete Lewis said:
start with throw out squawking and work towards clutch disc damper springs
does a light touch to the clutch pedal reduce it ???
and things like dynamo brackets loose can make silly noises
Pete
I have only tried completely disengaging the clutch but if I put the car in neutral & released the clutch while still moving, the noise was gone, but then the engine would be at tickover speed & it only does it at about 2000RPM.
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Last few trips out I have noticed an intermittent noise that I can only describe as a "tinkling". Quite high pitched and sounds like something maybe loose, was guessing a suspension issue.
But today, I realised that it only occurs on a trailing throttle, at about 2000RPM & goes when I depress the clutch. Then tried holding the engine at that speed when stationary and could occasionally here it, but can't work out where it's coming from.
I know it's not a lot to go on but just wondering if anyone has any ideas 🤔
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A few more
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This is a village near Cambridge and during the summer months, hundreds of cars turn up from 6PM on the first Friday. First time I have been and there were some lovely vehicles there
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1 hour ago, NonMember said:
If the heater is in series with the bulbs and (crucially) if it's in parallel with the contacts, so that it heats up when the bulbs are NOT lit (as was stated earlier in the thread) then the current through the heater must be lower than the operating current of the bulbs and therefore must be dominated by the heater's resistance, not the bulbs'. The current is therefore not in any way limited by the bulbs and increases by only a small fraction when there are four of them.
However, if the heater is very low resistance and wired in series with the contacts, so that current flows through it when the bulbs are lit, then you're right.
Yes, in this flasher unit the heater is wired across the contacts so heats when the contacts are open, with a circuit to ground through the bulbs.
2 X 21w bulbs will have a resistance in the region of 3.5 ohms and as discussed previously, the heater will be somewhat higher than that. I tried measuring the resistance of what was left of the heater in my old flasher and got 15ohms, but part of it had broken off. Probably 20+ when intact.
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1 hour ago, NonMember said:
The indicators are powered from the ignition-switched (green) supply, as you noted.
The hazards need to operate with the engine off, so they're powered from the permanent live.
Since the output of the two is the same set of bulbs, the indicator supply needs to be disconnected when the hazards are in use, otherwise the ignition circuit would be powered along with the bulbs.
Yes, that makes sense and I have found a diagram which I think confirms that. So for indicator fault finding purposes, the hazard switch could be bypassed and a voltage applied directly to the L side of the flasher unit and the indicators should then work as normal.
If not, then I would expect applying 12v to the B terminal would make the indicator lights come on when selected, but not flash.
If still nothing then likely to be a poor connection/wiring/earthing 🤔
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11 minutes ago, johny said:
yes that sounds right and of course then the heater will produce more heat (W=I*R) but they must either increase its resistance a bit more to reach a balance point or use a different bimetallic strip. Either way your flasher should flash a bit slower and I wonder if the longer time the heater is energised could have caused its early failure?
Who knows. Based on the construction I assume they only have a certain life anyway. I will see how long this one lasts
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Also, while on this subject, during my fault finding I saw from the wiring diagram that the +12v to the indicator flasher unit comes from the same connection as the brake light but via the hazard warning switch.
But the hazards have their own permanently live supply from the cigar lighter connection, so wondering why the indicator supply goes through the switch and can't find any internal diagram for it.
Is this just to remove the power to the indicator circuit when the hazards are operational?
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13 minutes ago, johny said:
Surely though if the bulbs were limiting the current they would light up? I think the heater is a higher resistance than the bulbs so it limits the current and it must be low enough not to cause the bulbs to glow (easier the more bulbs in parallel there are)....
Yes, I agree. I suppose the heater and the bulbs are effectively 2 resistors in series so the total current flow during the heating stage will be a function of both (V=IR) but as you say, the heater resistance must be higher so the current flowing through the bulbs isn't high enough to make them glow.
So if the resistance of the bulbs is lower because there are more in parallel, I am now thinking the resistance of the heater would go up to some extent to compensate and limit the current increase.
Does that make more sense?
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6 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
there a whole lot of variables in these with 2x and 4 x and 2 + 2 + 5 and so on
Pete
I suspect that they would all work, but the flash rate will vary and in some cases be unacceptable.
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Just now, Chris A said:
One way is better than the current (!) no way . .
Lol💡
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2 minutes ago, Chris A said:
I thought that the +5 was for the dash bulb. Shows I'm not that bright . . .I need to upgrade my brain the LEDs . . .
If you upgrade your brain to LEDs then you can only think one way 🤔
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10 minutes ago, johny said:
You do indeed have the hazard version denoted by the H in the part number so the FL2 would be the correct one for indicators. However I cant figure out what the difference except perhaps the higher power hazard one has a bigger contact or the contact is made better so the heater is bigger? This last idea is feasible because as theres 4 bulbs maybe the heater can pass a bigger current without making them glow....
Well I assumed that the current through the heater filament is limited by the resistance of the bulbs that are in series with it and 4 bulbs in parallel would allow twice the current to pass compared to 2. This would mean the heater gets hot much quicker and speed up the flash rate, so guessing the heater resistance itself is lower in the 4 bulb version to compensate.
If the 4 bulb version is used on a 2 bulb circuit then I would expect the "heavier duty" heater to heat up slower than intended due to the reduced current, resulting in a slower than expected flash.
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27 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
the flash rate with a failed bulb is something to do withthe unit type
the old cylindrical unit flashes faster when a bulb fails the rectangular FL units flash slower or stop
well something like that
Pete
Yes, I thought they all flashed faster but as described previously, I didn't see how this 2 pin rectangular type could do that. Useful to understand how it works for any future fault finding purposes.
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Also, I've noticed that my original flasher says 21w x 4 and I've replaced it with the same, but now wondering is that actually the correct part? There is a separate flasher for the hazards so as it only has to flash 2 bulbs at a time, should it have a 22w x 2 model 🤔.
It does flash a bit slowly but still within spec. Maybe that's why. Perhaps it will last longer if it flashes more slowly 🙂
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Thinking about how this works, the initial current flow appears to be through the heater filament until that heats enough to close the contacts?
So if a bulb blows, I would expect less current to flow so longer to heat up and therefore either slower flashing than normal or no flashing at all if it never gets hot enough.
Is this correct? I suppose I could remove a bulb to check tomorrow but if someone already knows 🙂
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2 minutes ago, Badwolf said:
The inards remind me of the voltage stabiliser unit.
Pretty much the same technology I think
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24 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Never saw the insides of one of those.... fascinating!
24 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:Never saw the insides of one of those.... fascinating!
Figured out how it actually works and It's quite ingenious really.
I managed to fix it, briefly, until the wire burnt out again lol
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Off to the local parts suppliers and one had the original Lucas part on the shelf.
Installed with a temp 5A fuse to make sure it wasn't burnt out after a short but all ok and now working again?
Oil pressure warning light
in Engine
Posted
Soldering iron 🙂