cliff.b
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Posts posted by cliff.b
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Just now, johny said:
I would touch the calipers and drums after a drive to see if any are warmer than expected. This is a possibility with new calipers because, as you might have read on here, some repro replacements dont allow the pistons to retract properly so the pads rub and give a firmer pedal....
Certainly finding a sticking piston on new calipers is a bit worrying☹️
They were new last year when I first got the car. The RHS one stuck after a few weeks and was not firmly pushing one pad against the disk, causing an annoying noise until the brakes were touched.
I did what I have just done to this LHS one, since which it has been fine.
Seeing if the caliper is warm is a good idea. The piston may still be sticking but holding the pad against the disk, I suppose.
I think I might just dismantle it again anyway and make sure everything is still free.
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23 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
so youre just winding us up then Ha !!
so is the question why was it lighter before whatever or Not
dont get your shreaded wheat from a discount store only use the original
Pete
Yes. Previously I suppose they were possibly a bit spongy but they worked ok and there was a lot of feel and sensitivity.
I think that's what has changed, for whatever reason. Far less pedal movement required.
I will get used to it and at least the squeak seems to have gone 👍
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Forced myself to go out for further test drive in the sun this morning and decided firstly that the brakes aren't binding in any way.
The pedal still feels hard compared to what it was like before I messed with it, but with a firm prod, the brakes are actually working well, possibly better than they were before. I suppose that as I had a sticking piston they may well be more effective now.
So having confidence now that the brakes work, the issue is how they feel and after driving around for half an hour, I am getting used to them.
On my first test, I definitely had a problem, but I think I resolved that and I am wondering if now it is the way it should have been all along 🤔
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8 minutes ago, Chris A said:
The best time to do a brake test is when the roads ARE busy. You stamp on the brakes and the cars behind all benefit and get to test theirs as well. You are performing a public service. 🙄
Hmm, I could do with learning some more modern swear words 🤔
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
sounds like the wavy washer and or the end little seal is not allowing recouperation freely back to the reservoir
so its looking like a master cyl strip down do make sure the pedal is fully returning to the stop/switch stop and the pedal pivot is not seized
as thats a good way to get a pressure build up with foot off there must be some free play/rattling good fit on the push rod
if its not free the pedal its holding down
Pete
Ok, had another quick look and confirmed the pedal is returning fully, doesn't appear to be binding and there is some slack in the linkage to the cylinder. Doesn't mean though that this was the case before I fiddled with it after the first road test.
Roads a bit too busy now for brake investigations so I will take her out again tomorrow to see if I can get any more clues as to what is going on.
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16 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
sounds like the wavy washer and or the end little seal is not allowing recouperation freely back to the reservoir
so its looking like a master cyl strip down do make sure the pedal is fully returning to the stop/switch stop and the pedal pivot is not seized
as thats a good way to get a pressure build up with foot off there must be some free play/rattling good fit on the push rod
if its not free the pedal its holding down
Pete
Ok, that makes sense. Many thanks
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Decided that, as recently suggested, one of the squeaky noises was coming from a disk and on inspection found one piston on near side stuck. So pads out, expanders in and press the pedal. Still didn't move. So pressed very hard and success. Wound the pistons back in but didn't open the bleed nipple as I normally would while doing so.
Repeated several times until happy it was now free, reassembled and out for a test.
Then 😱, pedal incredibly hard and if applying superhuman force, a little braking.
Brought it home, pressing brake pedal with bleed nipple open was firmer than I would expect but still went to floor. Tested again and now pedal still very hard but on pressing moderately it feels like there is a momentary delay and then the brakes are on too hard, locking the front wheels if I'm not careful. I got the hang of them eventually and they seem to have improved but what have I done?
Has forcing the fluid back into the master cylinder when I wound the pistons on damaged it?
As I said, I wish I hadn't bothered looking at it 🥺
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A nice drive home this morning from near Colchester, across the lovely Essex/Suffolk border area to six mile bottom near Newmarket then a bit faster on the A14 to home.
Saw lots of classic cars on the way with plenty of friendly waving.
More unusual ones included a Lancia (B29 I think), a MK1 Lotus Cortina and a Corvette Stingray. Makes a change from the usual MGBs.
Rounded the weekend off nicely 👍
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2 minutes ago, Mathew said:
The interesting spitfire is a regular of the Suffolk group meetings .
I quite liked the targa roof with 2 removable panels
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3 hours ago, PeteH said:
My dustbin`s full of lillys, "how do you know their lilly`s?", "cos lilly`s still wearing `em"!☹️. (Boom Boom!!). got my coat.
Like the wheels on the Red 13/60?.
Pete
Both the Herald and the "interesting" Spitfire next to it are club members
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12 minutes ago, Badwolf said:
... I just feed you the lines!!! Catching isn't it??
They don't write songs like that any more 😄
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12 minutes ago, Badwolf said:
Great pictures. Looks like a great day out, but why do I feel a chorus of 'My Old Man's a Dustman' ear worming through my brain after seeing pictures two and three?? Now you will all have it too!!!
6ft from 'is tail lol
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Visited this today as I have family nearby. Main event is traction engines and agricultural stuff but also a lot of classic cars and bikes.
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20 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
just he tolerance means we're not as quick as you think Ha !
Pete
now you have to look out for the yellow rectangular box on the side of the gantry there's not a lot of blue's around these days
Yes, very true. In the good old days the patrol cars would hide somewhere waiting to pounce on the unwary. At least they paint these things yellow.
Anyway, back then, if I was in a real hurry, I would wait for some expensive or sporty looking car to come hurtling past in the outside lane, the sort that the boys in blue seemed to relish stopping. Ideally it would have it's headlights on and a constant overtaking indicator.
Then I would speed up and tail him from a distance, just keeping him in sight and working on the principle that if he saw a police car or any other hazard I would see brake lights come on, and if he didn't notice I would see them pulling out after him lol
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52 minutes ago, johny said:
Hmmm I think theres another reason that explains it better😏
Yes, but if you use one of those words your post will probably be removed lol
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57 minutes ago, Wagger said:
I was using a satnav at the time. Set the car at 60 cruise and the satnav read 57. OK, sanavs work on linear distance ignoring gradients so will read slower anyway, even if the speedo is true. I have always found my BMW speedos to be quite close to reality and that is accross four models in twenty years. That's Germans for you.
Maybe that's why so many BMWs seem to be driven at high speed. Their owners assume the Speedo is under reading but it's not 😁
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1 hour ago, cliff.b said:
Regarding the lorries & roadworks, I agree that when not slowed down by cars doing an indicated 49mph they travel faster but usually if I am following them my GPS shows they are actually doing exactly 50. So maybe they have more accurate Speedos or use GPS themselves. But consequently, if they are held up by a car driver who thinks he is doing 49 but actually about 45 they sometimes get frustrated.
Also, if I chose to travel at 79mph on the motorway the Speedos in my modern cars would be reading at least 85 🤔
This has reminded me that many years ago I had to drive a lot of miles between customers sites each day to fix things and as we were under contract to arrive within 4 hours, I was always "in a hurry".
Consequently I usually sat on motorways at 85, keeping an eagle eye out for the boys in blue, but I never got a pull and I'm wondering now if this is why 🤔.
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27 minutes ago, Wagger said:
10% + 2mph is correct so that makes 79 mph for motorway. My exp cop school pal tells me that they'd rather we kept moving, so won't do you for 80. They will even let you tow a caravan at 60 on a two way two lane road, although they may just issue a warning when they catch you stationary.
I gave up towing as lorries would not keep below 56 on the 50 mph motorway roadworks sections. It was getting scary, especially when their limits were increased to 60. Towing in a narrow lane two is no fun. In fact the only fun in towing is reversing into a space. I learned at 16 to back a trailer full of hay bales into a barn with a foot to spare each side.
Regarding the lorries & roadworks, I agree that when not slowed down by cars doing an indicated 49mph they travel faster but usually if I am following them my GPS shows they are actually doing exactly 50. So maybe they have more accurate Speedos or use GPS themselves. But consequently, if they are held up by a car driver who thinks he is doing 49 but actually about 45 they sometimes get frustrated.
Also, if I chose to travel at 79mph on the motorway the Speedos in my modern cars would be reading at least 85 🤔
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1 hour ago, Wagger said:
At an indicated 80 my beemer is doing 77 according to the satnav. On the motorway in the UK, others still flying past me at 10 mph.
GPS suggests the speedos on both our modern cars read significantly high, one by almost 10%.
Also, those roadside speed displays that seem to be everywhere now vary quite a bit compared to GPS. Some higher some lower, still, rather those than speed cameras which I presume have to be more accurate.
Or do they? I have heard multiple times that you won't be prosecuted unless you exceed the relevant limit by 10% +2 mph (so 79 on the motorway). Is this because of a margin of error? I must admit, I have never personally known anyone that has been done for speeding on a motorway at less than 80mph.
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24 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:
I got one of these, useful for all sorts of things.
Doug
Yes, that's like my one 👍
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25 minutes ago, Paul H said:
Think I’ll pass on the screwdriver through the filter . I make enough mess as it is 😱
Paul
Probably wise 🤔
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4 minutes ago, Paul H said:
Hi just changed the oil on my Vitesse . The removal tool is difficult to use as access isnt easy plus there’s a lot of give when twisting off the filter
I’ve seen some 3 pronged ones with a socket at the front which look more practical . Any suggestions ?
PaulI use one with a short length of chain that loops round and tightens as you apply pressure which is quite effective.
Or there's always the old fashioned way, bang a large screwdriver through and turn lol
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18 minutes ago, johny said:
oh dear as you say still not sure its conclusive because a high resistance earth fault on the wire from the LED could cause it to flicker but not pass enough current to do the same to a filament bulb! Pity you couldnt get the same effect with the test wire and LED😖
Yes, unless it flickers on a new circuit I don't think it will be possible to conclusively prove the cause. Which is frustrating but fortunately doesn't really matter lol
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25 minutes ago, Chris A said:
Interesting. When I tried 2 leds with different power consumption I did get the flicker, although the lower rated bulb was less visible, as would be expected.
Lunch break nearly over so I'll soon be able to go and have another look. I'll report back at tea break time. Oh, yes been here nearly 30 years and still have a tea break in the afternoon, some habits can't/shouldn't be broken.
Would be interesting to connect your most flickering led in the same way that I did and if it still flickers, I think that would probably prove that it's not a fault with the existing wiring.
Probably wouldn't need to solder anything, just strip an inch of insulation off the spare bit of wire and wrap around the thread of the led bulb, then hold the centre contact against the battery +ve terminal. Your free hand then free to waggle the dangly wire about.
Wish I had left it alone 😒
in Braking System
Posted
Decided to have another look before taking car out again. Found disk could be turned by hand but rubbing and the pads took quite a pull to remove.
Decided to redo yesterday's work. Put spreader in place and pushed brake pedal down 2 and a bit times before it was solid again. Checked pistons and both looked evenly extended. Wound pistons back in, but this time opening bleed nipple, replaced pads and pressed pedal again to seat. Both pistons against pads and disk spins freely when turned.
Out for a test and pedal no longer hard. Braking not perfect but seems to be improving. Maybe I inadvertently swapped the pads & they need to bed in again.
Test cut short as my low brake fluid light came on and I thought I had a leak. Drove home gingerly and found lever only slightly low and that was due to me forgetting to top it up again after bleeding some off 🙄
I will test further but discovered another problem now which I will post in the appropriate section.
Many thanks all for help 👍