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Doh! My chassis is currently upside down while I'm cleaning it. Of course the two radiator brackets are present on the top side.

Similar to MkII Vitesse front cross bar, except I don't have the 2 upward facing brackets.

Tried looking for a replacement chassis, but couldn't find anything guaranteed to be solid. A few 'projects' available not any better than mine. The patches will all come off, any bad metal cut out and new sections made. Steve

What you find beneath the underseal. Some really badly welded plates, probably done to get through a MOT. They will have to come off to see what lurks under them! A lot of the chassis is solid, just hard work cleaning it all up a bit at a time.

Progress of a sort! I'm an engineer (retired) so I like to do some research before tackling a problem and try to find a good solution. I've received a quote from Sussex Blast Cleaning for £600 plus transport costs to blast and zinc prime the chassis. Of course this doesn't do anything for the rust inside the box sections. Advised not to get the body parts blasted as this distorts the thinner metal. Recommended to use Surface Processing Ltd in Dudley, West Midlands, for their chemical dipping process. Their quote for the chassis was for £834 again plus transport costs, not local this time so man & van for 400 mile round trip twice. Made sense to get the rest of the body parts done at the same time, but total cost of about £4K including transport. So not economic for me. Discussed these issues with a couple of local classic car restoration garages and their advice was to clean up the chassis myself, cut out the rust, get the welding done, then protect the chassis inside and out. So started using paint stripper, wire brush, scraper, electric drill with wire brushes. Lots of elbow grease, but quite satisfying when all is revealed. Various protections have been recommended which I will research: Dinitrol, Waxoyl or Bilt Hamber; Kurust; Jenolite; Hammerite Underbody Seal; Zinc Primer; Red Oxide; and more. Advised to drill a few holes in the chassis box sections, top and bottom, to inject the rust proofing with a 360° lance. Then fit rubber grommets in the holes after protection. Makes any repeat protection easy. Steve

Hi Guys. Thank you for all your comments, very helpful. The chassis is very heavy to move on its own! Steve

5. What type of welding is required. 6. Any recommendations for these services in East Sussex area. If anyone has been through this process around East Sussex, I would be glad to have a chat. Thanks all

Hi. Rejoined TSSC after 45 year gap! Bought another Vitesse Mk II O/D Convertible as a lockdown project. As can be seen from my account photos, the Vitesse is completely stripped down. Now starts the long process of restoration. First, I need some advice on the chassis. This was a MOT failure due to rust. A lot of it is solid though. 1. What is the best blasting process to use? Sand, bead, etc. 2. How do you clean/protect inside the box sections? Wouldn't want it to rust inside out later on. Wax oyl? 3. What anti-rust finish to apply that still allows welding? High zinc primer? 4. Where to buy side chassis rails, outriggers, rear chassis extensions, body to chassis fitting kit? Prices seem to vary a lot. 5.

Previous owner spent a lot of time and money on the mechanicals. Unfortunately not enough attention on the body and chassis. New rotoflexes and poly bushes in 2019. Is the CV conversion an alternative to rotoflex? Checking out the Differential, Overdrive, Gearbox and Engine is possibly beyond my expertise, tools and patience. As everything is 52 years old, maybe best to get it checked out by experts before reassembly. Steve

Now I have all the body off (despite Mr Rust) my Vitesse Mk2 Convertible and have a rolling chassis. Have to get everything off the chassis so it can be blasted and repaired. Previously a MOT failure due to chassis rust. I'm intending to start at the back and gradually work forward. Any tips for what not to do? Differential, Overdrive, Gearbox and Engine will all be sent to specialists for inspection. Thanks Steve

WD40 didn't have any effect. Tried Plus Gas and finally managed to get the knob off.

Had to drill out or cut off all the fasteners for the quarter lights as mostly rusted. Now just have to get the glass out, left to soak. All the seals for the doors will have to be replaced as deteriorated. This 52 year old lady is putting up a fight.

Useful information above. I'm just about to strip down both quarterlights to replace the 2 seals for each. Rimmer has the main seal listed as 803558/9 at £73.20 for the pair. No information on the seal around the glass itself. Any suggestions for any more economic sources? Steve

The internal bracket held a pivot point for the winder mechanism. Held by 2 rivits and 4 spot welds! Now all stripped down. (Hi to NZ)

Thanks for info. The Service Training Notes also show a few differences to the 2 Workshop Manuals. Part of the winder mechanism has a bracket spot welded on which I will have to drill out. I will post some pics when it is all dismantled to maybe help others. (Adrian - other Eastbourne - car or town?) Steve

So neither Workshop Manual exactly described my door. Convertible manufactured in 1968 and registered in 1969. Must have been a real pig to assemble these doors! Took 3 hours to get it all apart. The window is stuck solid to the channel and the plastic curtain has been ripped off at some time. The winder mechanism is still fixed to the panel by 2 small welded on studs? Now I know how it all works, I will take a lot more photos and notes when I strip the RHS Door. Not looking forward to reassembly.

Answered my own question with some more internet research! 2 Workshop Manuals available online as .pdfs: Triumph Herald 1200, 12/50, Vitesse and Spitfire WM 417 pages, c1964/5; Triumph GT6 and Vitesse 2-litre WM 627 pages. Very useful resource. Steve

Continuing saga of my Mk2 Vitesse Convertible restoration. Are there any detailed descriptions for dismantling the doors? The Haynes Manual is a bit lightweight on this subject. The doors will be blasted and repainted, along with the rest of the bodywork. Steve

WD40 didn't have any effect on Mr Rust. All 3 bolts were cut off with a Reciprocating Saw. The front bulkhead has now been lifted clear of the chassis.

Continuing saga of my Mk2 Vitesse Convertible stripdown. The rear tub and bonnet have been removed from the chassis. The front bulkhead has had everything stripped off it. Separating it from the chassis is proving difficult. Mr Rust fought me with the rear tub, same with the bulkhead. The front 2 (painted) bolts came off with some help from a nut extractor. The RHS had one 11/16 nut at the bottom and one 13mm bolt at the bottom, these both eventually came off, although the remaining bolt is rusted solid between the bulkhead and chassis. The LHS had 2 11/16 nuts, both of which snapped off, leaving 2 rusted bolts again. The amount of dirt that has fallen out of the chassis is enough to start a garden centre! Plenty of WD40 on the rusted bolts and both sides slightly jacked up to add some pressure. Will leave it for a couple of days. Any other suggestions please? Steve

Hi Peter I have recently started a Vitesse Mk2 Convertible body off chassis rebuild. The front inertia reels are located on the wheel arches. Suggest you protect the nuts and washers on the underside, as mine were rusted and difficult to remove. There wasn't any problem with reach of the belts. Steve

The knob on my master light switch is also stuck on. Definitely spring loaded and soaking in WD40. Hopefully will eventually come off.

Not in the rear wheel arches. Maybe the handbrake guide was cut out of another tub.

Thanks Clive. This bracket is not welded on, just bolted. It has seen better days, but is probably serviceable when cleaned up. Regards Steve

Q: What are these 2 bolts behind the rear seat and just below the springs access? Plus there is a clip above them which retains a cable (Handbrake?) behind. The other 2 holes were for the rear seat lap seat belts. A: The inner 2 bolts hold the handbrake guide bracket. The outer 2 bolts hold the lap seat belts and also go through the bracket. The handbrake cable primary to secondary mechanism is under the welded on nut. This bolt came off easily. All needs a good clean up!