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Doh! My chassis is currently upside down while I'm cleaning it. Of course the two radiator brackets are present on the top side.

Similar to MkII Vitesse front cross bar, except I don't have the 2 upward facing brackets.

Tried looking for a replacement chassis, but couldn't find anything guaranteed to be solid. A few 'projects' available not any better than mine. The patches will all come off, any bad metal cut out and new sections made. Steve

What you find beneath the underseal. Some really badly welded plates, probably done to get through a MOT. They will have to come off to see what lurks under them! A lot of the chassis is solid, just hard work cleaning it all up a bit at a time.

Progress of a sort! I'm an engineer (retired) so I like to do some research before tackling a problem and try to find a good solution. I've received a quote from Sussex Blast Cleaning for £600 plus transport costs to blast and zinc prime the chassis. Of course this doesn't do anything for the rust inside the box sections. Advised not to get the body parts blasted as this distorts the thinner metal. Recommended to use Surface Processing Ltd in Dudley, West Midlands, for their chemical dipping process. Their quote for the chassis was for £834 again plus transport costs, not local this time so man & van for 400 mile round trip twice. Made sense to get the rest of the body parts done at the same time, but total cost of about £4K including transport. So not economic for me. Discussed these issues with a couple of local classic car restoration garages and their advice was to clean up the chassis myself, cut out the rust, get the welding done, then protect the chassis inside and out. So started using paint stripper, wire brush, scraper, electric drill with wire brushes. Lots of elbow grease, but quite satisfying when all is revealed. Various protections have been recommended which I will research: Dinitrol, Waxoyl or Bilt Hamber; Kurust; Jenolite; Hammerite Underbody Seal; Zinc Primer; Red Oxide; and more. Advised to drill a few holes in the chassis box sections, top and bottom, to inject the rust proofing with a 360° lance. Then fit rubber grommets in the holes after protection. Makes any repeat protection easy. Steve

Hi Guys. Thank you for all your comments, very helpful. The chassis is very heavy to move on its own! Steve

5. What type of welding is required. 6. Any recommendations for these services in East Sussex area. If anyone has been through this process around East Sussex, I would be glad to have a chat. Thanks all

Hi. Rejoined TSSC after 45 year gap! Bought another Vitesse Mk II O/D Convertible as a lockdown project. As can be seen from my account photos, the Vitesse is completely stripped down. Now starts the long process of restoration. First, I need some advice on the chassis. This was a MOT failure due to rust. A lot of it is solid though. 1. What is the best blasting process to use? Sand, bead, etc. 2. How do you clean/protect inside the box sections? Wouldn't want it to rust inside out later on. Wax oyl? 3. What anti-rust finish to apply that still allows welding? High zinc primer? 4. Where to buy side chassis rails, outriggers, rear chassis extensions, body to chassis fitting kit? Prices seem to vary a lot. 5.

Previous owner spent a lot of time and money on the mechanicals. Unfortunately not enough attention on the body and chassis. New rotoflexes and poly bushes in 2019. Is the CV conversion an alternative to rotoflex? Checking out the Differential, Overdrive, Gearbox and Engine is possibly beyond my expertise, tools and patience. As everything is 52 years old, maybe best to get it checked out by experts before reassembly. Steve

Now I have all the body off (despite Mr Rust) my Vitesse Mk2 Convertible and have a rolling chassis. Have to get everything off the chassis so it can be blasted and repaired. Previously a MOT failure due to chassis rust. I'm intending to start at the back and gradually work forward. Any tips for what not to do? Differential, Overdrive, Gearbox and Engine will all be sent to specialists for inspection. Thanks Steve

WD40 didn't have any effect. Tried Plus Gas and finally managed to get the knob off.

Had to drill out or cut off all the fasteners for the quarter lights as mostly rusted. Now just have to get the glass out, left to soak. All the seals for the doors will have to be replaced as deteriorated. This 52 year old lady is putting up a fight.

Useful information above. I'm just about to strip down both quarterlights to replace the 2 seals for each. Rimmer has the main seal listed as 803558/9 at £73.20 for the pair. No information on the seal around the glass itself. Any suggestions for any more economic sources? Steve

The internal bracket held a pivot point for the winder mechanism. Held by 2 rivits and 4 spot welds! Now all stripped down. (Hi to NZ)

Thanks for info. The Service Training Notes also show a few differences to the 2 Workshop Manuals. Part of the winder mechanism has a bracket spot welded on which I will have to drill out. I will post some pics when it is all dismantled to maybe help others. (Adrian - other Eastbourne - car or town?) Steve