Richeee

Sorry for yet more ballast coil voltage questions. Especially when i thought i understood it. Measuring voltage at end of ballast resistor. Wire disconnected from coil. White yellow cut. Ignition on engine not running i get 13.2v. I thought i should only get 9 or so. Connect the ballast coil to positive side of coil i get 10v with engine running. Rising to 11 volts with reving. its now running an accuspark electronic distributor thats connected to a seperate 12v supply now. White wire take off after ignition switch so getting full voltage as required by accuspark. But really my question is how is 13v getting through ballast wire. ? Somebody has obviously been there in before me. Easy to see by state of replacement fuse box. I snipped the white and yellow to the coil in a moment of stress as i was trying to eliminate that back feeding the ballast. Which it i understand it does when starter motor is spinning. Just fitted a new ballasted coil but with those voltages wondering if non ballasted is better. Maybe im just confused.

Thank you. I will try that. Im swapping out coil anyway as suspect its 45 years old , but will disconnect the tacho at the coil and take for a test drive first to ascertain the relationship between coil and tacho as you say.

Not to worry. Normal service will be resumed on my restoration. A. I was getting a bit demoralised that i did not have a Triumph to drive and my mgf had to go but needed its head gasket doing as per other thread. Then decided to put up a car port to offer protection to my new spit. Bit of tinkering on my spit. B. Garage and house now full of furniture from the daughters and sons flats moves not alligning correctly C. Nearly completeing the sell of my late sisters house. Clearing that out and admin of 15 beneficiaries along with administration of late mothers field sales has got a bit in the way. Dont mention the sciatica or paid work that im not doing enough off. But the end is in site and after a series of car boot sales, sisters house completing in a couple of weeks ,Daughter about to move into new house I can get my garage and mojo back. Almost long for the wet dark days of winter where i can shut myself away in the garage. It will definetly be continued. But first got to get up and clean my sisters house. Or rather supervise family members cleaning. Their has to be some effort involved in beinf a beneficiary. To be Continued.

Took car for spin yesterday to circulate the washing soda in its coolant system. As doing so it started to missfire quite badly, when it got hot. Under load. Previpusly mentioned a slight missfire when warm. This getting worse and annoying. Also noticed the rev counter working and then not working erractically. Reading up , researching leads me to the coil and or ignition system. Coil has take off to tacho. Just suspicious. I had already purchased a new ballast coil , accuspark distributor plugs and leads. Not yet fitted and will be adding Adding a 12v feed to the distributor as per other posting. So my next job will be to swap these out and a bit of timing. See if this eradicates it. Whilst under the bonnet tried to locate a noise from the front of the engine. Its a bearing packing up type noise. More or a alternator or water pump fan noise than engine. (Not that paranoid just yet) so have ordered new pump and belt. The earlier static type. Have a 1500 fan blades knocking about i can swap out for the viscous couplings ones. So intention is to change the pump before final refill with antifreeze. To be continued.

Got round today after fitting tow bar on my polo yesterday to reflushing the spit. The drain plug was loose.!! The washer disintegrated and as you guys expected no water at first until i poked around with wire. Lots of flushing after this. From my ebay box of washers managed to find one to fit. And added washing soda. First tried pouring dry into rad and adding water. That was not to successful. Just solidified like a plug. Instead dissolved in a beaker and added as a solution. The beaker was getting warm as i mixed it. Couple of mugfulls of powder went in. Will run for a bit then repeat. The previous owner being a chippy had lined the boot with carpet covered boarding. And a board to go over the spare wheel floor. This created a couple of tool hide aways either side. Not massive but enough once i had decanted tools into carrier bags inside soft canvas bags. On another issue the gas strutts i fitted proving excellent. Bonnet goes up smoothly and squarely and down again all under control. To be continued.

Will give it a try. Have heard this mentioned befor but never tried.

Supposed to be fitting a towbar to my polo this afternoon but could not resist looking in the engine bay of the spit. Thought i would check.the water as knew it was a bit mucky. Worse than i thought. A brown slime. Nothing for it but to disconnect all hoses turn the heater on and flush out. Full of brown horrible muck. Only done 250 miles in last 4 years. Topped up and got up to heat. Only thing is pretty sure the bottom of the block did not get flushed out properly. Trying to work out where the drain was. Was expecting a proper old fashioned drain cock but it might only be a plug. Think its on the exhaust side , between the exhaust and the back of the engine. But did not have time to investigate further and needed to research before i unscrewed any old plug.

First car show with my Spit yesterday at the Cuckoo pub in Hamptworth , Wiltshire. Nearly had time to put the choke in from leaving home to getting there. 3 other triumphs there and a very varied mix of vehicles at this Pride and Joy meeting.

Fitted the same kit this afternoon. With the front plates bolted to the hinge by the front 1/4 valence. And fuuny enough also had to reverse the drivers side so inside the wheel arch not outside as it caught the intake pipes. Will see as times goes on if it gets too much muck etc there. Certainly makes bonnet operation a lot better.

New Mot this afternoon and no advisories. Well chuffed. It in theory did not need one but with non working hazard lights, exhaust blowing and spongy brakes it was non road worthy. But saw it today on the brake tester both indicators consistent and coincided. Exhaust not blowing now just a bit tinny as its all stainless and hazards ok. And as the mot man said no advisories because nothing to advise on. In theory looking at the condition of the car would not expect much but as the last test was 4 years ago needed doing. In my opinion all should be tested every year. But thats my opinion. Next on the list is to sort out ignition and slight no 2 carb overflow now ignition bits and su bowl gasket has arrived. Not out of jobs. Really want to get back to the restoration in the garage. Feeling inspired again. Especially now that i have a triumph to drive again. To Be Continued.

Right. Think i might have it. First thing purchased 5 litres of brake fluid. No messing. 1 litre plastic milk bottle with hole for tube. Cable tie on tube to stop it pulling out of cap. Small air hole Rear wheels off car so loads of access. Rear adjusters adjusted. Little bit but not too bad. Cylinders slid ok. Milk bottle proped higher than the nipple and off I went. No valve or tandem circuits on mine. I thought it might but no. Using a walking stick to get to brake pedal, just kept pumping. Nigh on 2 litres of fluid used. Found minor weep where had changed the hoses in a couple of places. Retightened. Tbh lot better as it was evactuating proper liquid not the emulsified mesh of bubbles that the vacuum machine was producing. Pretty certain its there. Rear Wheels still off as had to go visit the 'outlaws' and i ran out of time. So ultimate test tomorrow morning. Mot booked for 4. Thanks all.

Thank you for your quick replies . A white switched but unfused supply it is. The idea of an inline fuse i am mulling over. At least the ignition will still run if the green wires fuses go. Thanks

Next couple of days fitting an acuspark electronic distributor. It will require a 12v supply. So cant just take a wire off the coil as ballasted. I understand i can use either a green wire for supply (the overdrive wire being close) which is fused or a white wire unfused. Must admit my preference is to fuse. As per the 3 i blew yesterday mucking about behind the dash. But obviously could leave me stranded if a fuse goes. Thoughts?

Started on my mot bits today, first off the hazard switch. My first thoughts were to pull the switch out to the on position ans squirt loads of contact cleaner in. Not successful. So had to remove it. Out came the centre panel but my size 10 hands were not going in. So out came the taco by reaching under and up to reased the knurled screws A pair of pointed circlip pliers and out came the switch through the taco hole. Took the steering wheel off because it was upside down and in the way. Lots of contact cleaner on hazard switch. Love these mechanical switches that today would be soul less electronics. A good Man switch with proper contacts and mechanical connectors. Got it working but then failed. Blew fuse. After half an hour of searching worked out what the problem was. But then the indicators packed up. Tried to remove speed to find the flasher unit and broke the catch off the speedo cable. Grrrr. At the end it was pushed back on. Hope it holds or buy a new one. Using a series landbrover flasher unit seemed to have all things working. The hazard umit still flashes eractically but new one ordered. Alligned the guages so now vertical. Next on the list was the blowing joint on the rear exhaust. Most of the system was stainless steel but the previous owner had swapped out the rear box for a mild one as he did not like the sound. I put the stainless one back on with moli slip. At the front, connecting to the downpipe is one of those flexible woven exhaust connector. Might be a bit suspect but will wait for mot man to decide. Last on the mot list was spongy brakes. 4 new hoses were delivered today. But to be honest not sure if the original had any real age. After this tried to bleed and failed miserably. Tried a vacuum pistol type machine but spent ages creating a vacuum and just pulling out endless bubbles. Wether the hose was leaking on the caliper or what i domt know. Tried all 4 and then tested pedal. Its as if i might not have bothered. Tried for a second time no luck. Tomorrow i will just use the old fashioned way but single handed. Pumping into a jam jar 4 corners at a time. With loads of fluid to keep topping up. If i keep replacing fluid iust get there. Surely. To be Continued.

Not a restoration so could not go in that secction , but wanted to just update and keep a record as I become the next custodian of my Pageant blue spitfire 1500. Arrived Sat but due to myself mucking upthe insurance could not drive to Sunday. Like a little boy waiting for Christmas. Now insured via Peter James. Not got agreed valuation but must get it sorted. Knew from test drive the brake pedal was soft. So bled the brakes first thing Sunday. Could not use my normal two 'little bleeders' who have left home. All the effort i spent on down, hold it, release, check fluid level wasted on them. Actually the daughters back Friday and sure she will enjoy a bit of bonding time with Dad sat in the Spit. Anyway still soft. Even though i have expensive receipts from the previous owner for numerous brake parts, have ordered new hoses. Will replace these and then replace all fluid. Tbh think its been sat too long. Only done 270 miles in 4 years. Set off anywaY for a 82 mile drive yesterday across the New Forest , Cranborne Chase, Six penny Handley, zig zag hill to Shaftesbury and back. Superb. Love it. Few things to do. A. Hazard lights not working. Will have to dose the switch in contact cleaner as a first thing. Wanted to take for Mot tomorrow but will have to wait till i sort a few things out. B. Steering wheel upside down... Obstructing my view of dash. C. Exhaust blowing. Noticed soot around rear joint when bleeding brakes. The previous owner gave me a stainless back box that he did not like the sound of. Liqui moly ordered and will fit new back box. D. Missfire under spirited driving up hill. Going to start with coil , iridium plugs, leads, acu spark distributor, timing and then move on to carbs which are giving me that lovely twin su petrol smell. One of the overflow pipes was a bit damp. So will give the floats and pipes a bit of a blow out. Then a little balance. Got to admit though most of time it pulled lovely. E. None of the dials are straight. Grrr. F. Previous owner fitted a lovely Blue tooth radio. Perfect. But behind the seats has fitted a carpetted box to put two speakers. Looks fine. But being 6ft 3 and 19st could do with the seat back a tad but restricted by the box. To be altered. G. Shes running on 175 tyres. Dont thimk thats original and the speedo reads slow. 2 or 3 mph indicators yesterday informed myself of that. Reading about 5 slow at indicated 40. Just have to drive slower. H. Passenger side cardboard fell out of dash. I. Brimmed it but tank only read 3/4. Will short sender and see if guage or sender. J. Engine and radiator valences to fit. Just in boot. Other things to do but not urgent. Replace no. Plates for black and silver. Lowering the front one away from grill, and insert a couple of relays so that the lights and 12 volt socket are ignition controlled. I have flattened my polo twice by not disconnecting the accessories. In fact i now carry a battery and jump leads in boot for when i next.leave the sat nav on. Takes about 3 days. Just a few minor jobs mot and then my efforts can go back to my 13/60 resto . The Spitfire then being my fun drive. To be continued.

While i was otherwise engaged yesterday helping my son move flats recieved this image to say it had been delivered. It was five hours later , all the time feeling like a kid at Christmas eve befor i could get back to play. But due to insurance issue and transfer cant drive unti Sunday morning anyway. So all i could do was move on the drive a bit. First thing to do will be to bleed the brakes. I knew they were soft. Then hopefully Sunday morning a drive around the New Forest and possibly a drive via zig zag hill to Shaftesbury and back.

The hood is black. The heritage cert refers to Pageant Blue, Beige (cord trim) and black hood. So looks original if not unusual as you say.

Correct. Heritage cert says issued in Guildford. Obviously know your stuff.

Been shoping today. Looking to replace my Mgf. Was supposed to sell the mg first but got carried away. Whilst im restoring my Herald was getting a bit dissillusioned that I did not have a Triumph to Drive. So put that right. Body off bare metal respray in 2000 and massive history file. Supposed to be 27,000 miles only which i take with a pinch of salt. But have every mot from 1996 wher it had only 19,000 on it. Supposedly it was off the road before that and the mot,s seem only to indicate a few hundred miles since every year. Poor little thing is being wrenched from its nice warm garage to live under a car port with a cover. Perhaps i might have to take pity on it and get a carcoon. First thing when its recovered back is to mot as its not been done for a couple of years now.

Update guys and gals. The new radiator bleed plug arrived the next day. Quess what wrong size. It was 12mm. Supposed to be 10mm. So just used the rubber washer off the new one and 10 mm stainless bolt. Ran over the next couple of days for an hour at a time on drive bleeding and panicing. Seemed ok so interior gone back in and egine cover. Now got new mot. Roof treated to fabsil. Now done over 100 road miles with no apparent loss of water . My intention is to put another couple of hundred miles on befor replacing with a spitfire. Must admit had a look at one. 7 hour round trip and nearly did not bother to get out of the car when i got there. Not as advertised. Anyway as regards the mg. Hopefully... Will not be continued.

Well. It missed its destiny with a bonfire. As i left it last time it was running but i was having problems bleeding. After leaving it for a couple of days doing other things like Beaulieu autojumble, gardening and bonfires returned to check on the water level yesterday. I expected it to be down, but it was empty. Not going to panic at this stage because reading up it seems it can several goes at bleeding and topping up before it settles. Topped up ran again , thermostat open electric fan going and bled it several more times. Did find some water in the foot well which worried me a bit. But actually the heater matrix is right above there and its bleed screw. It only happens when im bleeding it. So ok. Went back to it today and the water was down 10mm or so. Not too bad Another top up and then a quick warm up to remove any more air and bleed. Yep. The radiator bleed screw broke. Lost several litres of coolant. One on order from Rimmers and i can start top up and bleeding again. Mechanically engine seems ok. No rattles or bang. Just got to convince myself the waters ok. Put interior back in. So sort the water, fabsil the roof. Mot it and see what it will make. To be Continued.

Bonfire day Now two birds one stone...........

Dont Ask if finished yet. NO. 30 hours in but at least it does run. Put belt covers on. Working throgh wheel well and over the top. Then took them off again as i had forgotten to torgue up the pulleys with my new toy. Put covers on again. Put the alternator belt on and tighten up, again through wheel well lying on gravel drive. Then took it off again because with alternator in tightened position you cant get to bolts to fit the engine mount framework. Fit engine mount assembly through wheel well and do alternator up again. Fit engine bay plastic cover through wheel well. Lose bolts in gravel. Cut some new 6mm bolts down to size. Then find old ones. Generally fit rest of ancilliaries , take the front boot covers off to get to heater matrix bleed screws and fill up coolant. But obviously air lock as no coolant from rear bleed screw. Change oil and filter. Will it start. Yes. First go no problem. Spend an hour going round all 3 bleed screws, front rad, matrix and rear spaghetti of pipes. Eventually after scalding hands and many airlocks all good. Next job will be in a few days time will be to top up coolant and bleed again. Put interior back to gether now its all dry and take for several short runs keeping an eye on things. Then to top it all see a coue of mg adverts for specialist who charge between 750 to 850 all in. Deffinetly should had gone to them. Then when fixed , put new ticket on it and up for sell. My inkling would be to look out for a Spit i think to drive whilst i complete my 13/60 resto. Not to grand as it would live outside under a cover but notto shabby either. Beaulieu autojumble next couple of days with family commitments. Any way for now, To be continued.

Another futile few hours. Trying to time up the lovely k series engine. Managed it eventually but i went down a blind alley. Basically i had put some marks in paint on the crankshaft pulley so that it would aid the new timing and had covered up the mg ones confusing myself. First off the cam pulleys had to come off again so the one piece timing rear cover that bolts to the block and head could be fixed in place. Watched a video recently where this cover had been broken to save taking the pulleys off. Must admit i was tempted to cut but did not. Next pulleys back on and make sure front and rear belts were alligned. Not many photos of next bit as it was all going a bit square shaped. The mg has two timing marks on the crank which gives a little bit of lee way about 1/2 a tooth. Only on mine i had put a red dot where it lined up with the mark and covered up on of the 2 marks on the crank pulley. Spent the next 3 hours working through the wheel well and over the top altering the belt 1 tooth at a time either on the cam or on the crank back and forward of my red mark trying to get it exactly on my red mark whick was covering up one of the dots. So i was basically going from timed then 1 tooth off then back again. Grrrrrr. Eventually decided to sit down and reread the work shop manual. Scraped off the red paint. Realised i should have been aiming between the 2 dots, and it all slotted into place. But Mr Amazon bought me a new toy to cheer me up. A cam pulley tool to hold them tight while you torgue up. You cant tourge against the belt and no real way of holding sensibly. I was hoping to finish today but still got to bolt the suspension / engine mount back together. Redo the coolant. Change the oil and refit the dried out interior. Then see if it starts and hopefully cured the problem. To be continued.

Paranoia is a very apt word for working on this engine. Keep re-reading the manuals and watching videos to make sure i dont miss anything. Kept the crank perfectly still, as yes did not want to move the sleeves. Marked lines on the vvc pulleys as well as used the factory markings, and you are right i did have 1 tooth off on my first and second goes but eventually got the marks as they were when i took the old vvc belt off. Next job will be the new water pump and the tensioner etc befor i turn the engine by hand many times as i narotically check the timing marks. Good to have you guys looking over my shoulder.