Richeee

As i have this job to do at some point im watching with interest.

Thanks . I will do. I will also consult Mikes excellent book. Temporarily misplaced but know its not far away.

Thank you. Yes the rod is shown clearly in the manual. Just looked at it. I must buy another copy of it to keep in the garage and get mucky. Try to keep the one i've got clean in doors. The plastic sheet. Mine appaered to be caught under the external weather strip. This might just have been an accident. Which is a bit why i asked. I can see that if it just hung down from the bottom glass channel on the outside it would work effectively. Thanks.

Been a few weeks since I updated this , life , work, 1/2 acre of garden to look after, broken compressor pressure switch but have progressed. From my other threads you see I was asking about paint removal and acid dipping of the tub, bulkhead etc. Decided in end to go ahead with having the tub etc , dipped and primed. will be at the end of May. Now to get the various bits ready for collection. The inner front wings have already rusted and fallen off. So no worries there in the tank. Removed all the bonnet trim , headlights etc. Sourced some new old stock front wings which will also go to be dipped. As well as some 2nd hand fibreglass valances which may not get used. Stripped the boot lid of trim , number light etc. It was not a 13/60 item as wrong number plate light and it had separate lettering on the boot. Can anyone confirm if the metal pressings are the same.? i.e if the boots are the same. apart from number plate lights and lettering.? When removing the inner bracing the screws holding it on appear to have pulled through the boot metal work leaving over sized holes Presumably this happens to a lot as the boot is opened and shut? Presumably i will have to weld up and re drill. Started work on the doors today. First time i had stripped a door like this. Land rover door with sliding glass has nothing on these. After a few hours. And work with a finger file to weaken the wrapped around door skin on the edges. Ready for dipping. And bits to squirrel away in garage roof. Got the quarter light removed eventually , and rest of window winders etc but how do you get the bits assembled with decorated doors with out scratching. Oh well perhaps assemble and decorate afterwards? That's a job probably for another year however. One last question. There was a metal rod, coat hanger type , that appeared to go from the front glass rail to the rear. But I did not notice until i had remover the rear glass rail to get the door lock out. Does it hook around the rear glass rail to keep them taught or is it for something else i don't understand.? Photo of it laying on top in its approx position. I lied, another question. There was aplastic sheet tucked into the bottom glass rail and then tucked under one of the weather strips. Seems a strange configuration. Normally see them on the inside just under the door panel. How do you guys assemble yours? To be continued.

I an under no illusions of what may come back or not. The potential for it to be very ragged and the theory of not enough drain holes when it is lifted out, think will not be a problem. Will take ample befor and after photos for your information and amusement. Wont be for 8 weeks or so.

Right. Decision made. Good or bad. Time will tell. Going with enviro Strip for paint removal, derusting dipping, and then the application of a Novol weld through primer. Not cheap at over 2 grand including collection from the south coast,delivery back and the dreaded tax. Wont be for a couple of months and that gives me time to strip everything down, doors etc. There facebook page has a daily gallery of vehicles going through their process. Not an easy decision but spent more time stripping paint etc the manual way and considered for me personally to be the best option. Going to sell another vehicle of mine to pay for it. My toys have to be nominally self financing. Not that it ever is in reality. This Herald was a basket case to me that I have had for 10 years and my brother 10 years before that and neither of us have ever seen it assembled. The tub must have been off the chassis for a minimum of 20 years, and requires at least new arches and probably new wings, inner and outer. The intention would be before it goes to be stripped is to weld a bar across at the mythical 46 1/2 and to keep in place to after all welding etc is done. I have been researching in this forum ways of achieving this magical dimensions and will probably be asking some questions soon. On another note. Am officialy now a club member. Card came in post.

That shell looks very good. Did you repair any holes befor it went back for the plating? Certain on mine that after dipping it will need multiple repairs.

Thanks guys. Getting a quote from Enviro Strip , for collection, paint sripping , de rusting and applying a primer, and delivering back anything that survives. Will report back on costs. I can wield a spanner, weld if i have grinder near by , but lose patience with the dark arts of painting etc which does my head in. Painting will be farmed out. In my mind to start with a derusted tub , bulkhead and bonnet even though i will then replace inner and out wings and weld the floor up , for me personally seems the way to go.

Sorry if this has been covered befor but considering getting my rear tub, bulkhead and bonnet of my 13/60 chemically stripped to remove all the old primer rust etc. Just wondering if anybody on here has actually had it done. I am having difficulties getting into all the nooks and crannies and would like to start from a clean sheet even it a sieve after it comes out the tank.

I must confess i purchased said footrest at the beginning of this thread. What with no clutch pedal going into my converted herald and a reduced footwell for widened chassis rail, thought it might come in useful for my spare size 10.

Thanks everyone for their input. Have purchased a jps half fit mask with replaceable filters. Ordered some poly discs as they seem to get the thumbs up from every body. I can see a vaiety of measures will be required. Thanks

Hi. Have considered these but never tried them. I am worried about creating too much heat to distort the surface. The only way will be to try them. Will get hold of some. Thanks

Hi. Got to the point now on my 13/60 resto, with automatic conversion, that im goint to start work on the bulkhead and rear tub removing paint and cutting out rusty bits etc. Fitting to the chassis and making sure everything alligns. Got a couple of questions which are liable to produce a myriad of opinions. I have used wire wheel on a grinder on some of the areas but reluctant to use on visible panels like wings etc in case of surface damage. Been using some screwfix 'no nonesense' paint stripper but not really effective. Which paint strippers do others recomend.? Or how do others remove the old paint and crud.? Also was looking in the club shop at the paint , but the product details dont appear to say if cellulose. Think it is. Being a farmers boy and worked on buildings for most of my life my primer of choice is normally red oxide . At present ive started using a red QAD red zinc phosphate primer. Is this ok for later use of the shops paint. ? Or would rattle can etch primer be better. ? Could be primer for a year or so in a domestic garage. So need something that protects before its professionally painted on the top half. The bottom half , underneath, i will do myself.

Time for an update . I had finished off on my last update with the bulkhead temp bolted in place with the floor cut. I was waiting for steel and a sheet metal bender to be delivered. So I had a go at getting the 2nd hand 1500 Dolomite engine running. Tried jerry rigging some wiring and had the engine turning over with oil pumping out the rockers. No luck with the original fuel pump and had ordered a new one. Well with a electric pump i had fuel to the carbs but although had a spark could not get it to fire. Was going to strip the engine anyway back to a short block anyway so no great shakes. Steel was delivered and so was a sheet bender. A basic one but for the few I needed was adequate. Why Measure twice and cut once when you can measure once and cut twice. Twice the fun. Got it right second time. Bit of welding , cutting, underseal and red zinc primer later. Then temporarily bolted back onto the chassis to check for clearance and stupid mistakes. And from underneath... All seems to fit Ok with clearance for the brake and fuel pipes. Have yet thought to form holes for the pipes in the outriggers. Will wait until i install the brake lines in a year or 5 depending on how things go. Now to think about the rear gearbox mount. The borg warner had a different mount to the rear of the 13/60 herald box. Fortunately i had one with the box and so after fiddling and cutting had it basically in place. However the final fixing in place will have to wait till a later time until the prop shaft situation has been sorted. A company local to me can adapt / build prop shafts but need to get the one out of the garage roof to see how the original compares to the length i now require. The final height of the mount needs to be determined later. So that is basically up to date with progress. Now begins the long slog of the bulkhead, rear tub and bonnet restoration. Got to strip back to bare metal, cut out he rot and let in new pieces wings etc. I will be busy......

I do, have the bits i cut out, and yes they will slide across a bit but more steel will still be required. Especially as i had first cut them out a tight fit and then cut another 40mm rip out to allow for brake and fuel pipes on passenger side. Tbh i will take measurements , take the bulkhead off and place on a table and set to work. See what happens. There is a plan in my mind but theres only room in there for a simple idea. I will you posted.

Hi. Bit of work over the weekend and today. Hoping to update this thread as i move on. Did up date my introductory thread with a couple off photos which i shall repeat in this one and then just use this thread. Another forum im on gets quite funny if you post things in the wrong place. 😅 Hopefully you guys dont worry so much when i get things wrong. Over the weekend i sprayed with a paint can from underneath to indicate on the bulk head floor where the chassis rails clashed. This i then cut out. Then cut out again a bit bigger until the bulkhead would sit down properly. Im trying to keep the flange for the gear box cover to sit on as i dont really want to alter the cover if i have to. It will be a fibreglass new one but still dont want to alter if possible. Off course i had to pull up a chair and try it for size. And se how my size 10s will fit. New floors will have to be made. But whilst waiting for some new sheet steel to be delivered i bolted down the bulkhead for trial and was reasonably pleased. Only two bolt holes need a tad of easing And sermed to sit well on one rubber each. As its a second hand engine and gearbox thought it would be a good idea to try the engine and see if it could be got to run. Couple of hours has it spinning and oil , new , seeping from the rockers so pumps working. Have sparks from a temp electrics , but the fuel pump not working. I then lost a hour of my life reading up on short and long arm fuel pumps. Anyway one relating to engine number , late 1500, has been ordered. Looks like work will get in the way for a few days but will be back. TO BE CONTINUED.

Hi. As you may see in my project thread, that i stated after this introduction , that i have the 1500 and borg warner 65, from a dolomite, temporarily in the altered chassis to see the clashs. I have now cut the bulkhead floor to fit the bulkhead down. Tbh have read that this would be difficult conversion and tried to choose the smallest combo. The engine is on the mounts in the normal position. Have to sort the gearbox mounts. But does not look to bad.

Thank you very much for the article. Appreciated. Its all a learning curve and interesting to read how some one else approached the same thing. Thanks again.

CONTINUED. I am sure the early marcos cars had timber chassis but could be wrong. Normally am. And that Morgans use a timber frame, so why not me. Not really but did have some timber lying around that could be used for test purposes. This gave me the basis of an idea to strengthen the rails before chopping bits out. This i then replaced with 80 x 80 x3 box sections which i welded into place. Very agriculturally. Very apt being a farmers boy. My welds consist of lots of welding. Normally to much followed by grinding. This was followed by more box sections to the other rail, and the area of the original rail to be removed marked up. After which the engine hoist was used to flip the chassis over. Once flipped over the underside of the box sections could be welded, and groung and welded and ground and still look rough. The original rails were cut out. But not completely as the outside face of both original rails actually remains welded to 5he side of the new box sections. I was always concerned that the original rails were cut and although the new box sections welded to the outside edge and to the front and middle outriggers was probably strong enough decided to weld 4 new cover plates from the front original rails, over the new box sections and on to the rear rails where it meets the center cross members. This was 2 mm plates, drilled with multiple 10mm holes for plug welding to the rails and box below and to the outriggers. Thers wee also continuously welded around the external edge. Resulting in a finished chassis. Yes those with a high deff screen will see my rough welds. But again these will smoothed down as work progress,s. My intention is to do the syructural alterations to footwells , bulkheads etc as required. Redo the wings and rust repairs. Rebuild the engine. Check the gearbox. Try out structural automotive adhesives on the non structural panels. ( opening a new can of worms there ) and then revisit all elements cosmetically. Temporarily fitted the engine and gearbox this morning befor the power went and pleased to say that there is enough clearance. Aso placed the bulkhead in position to see the cladh that would now ensue from the reduced footwell space. Need to break open.my new plasma cutter from lidl. Thats up to date from Sept till now. Tbh was thinking of posting earlier but wanted to make sure i was not wasting my time before i did so. As i progress i will update. But hopefully in smaller chunks. TBC Richard

CONTINUED.... In the mean time , my friend who had aquired an abandoned Herald convertible from round the back of an old Conservative club in Southampton decided it was surplus to requirements and it would be available befor it returned by natural degredation to the earhs elements from which Triumph first made it. A price was agreed and it became a donor car. The only thing is that it might just be more of a reference piece for me than a donor. As with it being complete it shows me where all the bits should go. It was collected and now sits on my drive under a blue tarp. TBH I prefer automatics and am getting a bit creaky, one pedal for stop and 1 for go, with one arm around a good or even bad woman, and had the crazy idea to fit a triumph based automatic gearbox. Research followed and knew there would have to be chassis alterations and thought the Dolomite 1500 would fit best with Borg Warner 65. Oh well in for a penny in for a pound and a engine and gearbox was sourced of ebay. It was packaged by a very nice man on a pallet and delivered. Unpacked and assembled, offered into place to see what the clash would be. Hmmmm quite a bit. TBC

Well here goes after introducing myself earlier, sat here in dark. Storm Eunice has taken out the overhead lines, Well candle light and an LED camping light thought I had better start my resto thread. Have had a 13/60 Herald since 2009 and its been in storage in many places. My brother had it befor me for 10 years. Basket case. Neither him or myself have ever seen it properly assembled. The tub and bulkhead just resting on the chassis and bits everywhere. Some work was started and abandoned but now now time has come for it to be started again. It was its turn. My landrover I had restored was sold and a new project was required. So in Sept 21 it was dragged out of storage in my back garden. Bits and pieces were dragged from boxs and out of my garage roof. Something like 4 doors for a 2 door car. My brother and i had been collecting over the years. And work began. TBC.

Hello. Thank you for letting me join the forum. Hopefully this uploads OK and is inthe right section as not to offend any one. I have owned several Triumphs over the years. Started with a TR7 back in 85. Had a 1500 spitfire that was pulled from a collapes garage and drove round the fields befor selling to spares guy from Bond club. Then another Tr7 in 2010 but now working on a Herald basket case that I aquired back in 2009 from my brother. Who also owned it as a basket case for 10 years befor that. Neither of us have ever seen it together and bits have gone astray. Also have a very rotten donor car, whick may actually not provide any useful bits but will assist as its complete and together and will aid as a model of how things fit. Have recently completed a ground up / nut and bolt restoration of a series 2a landrover. Then sold to recoup some funds and thought it was about time i got round to the Herald. The idea is to fit a 1500 dolomite engine complete with Borg Warner 65 auto box. Just cause i like autos. And getting older and i creak a bit. Will start a project thread to follow my efforts and how i have adapted the chassis but thought i would just upload if it works a couple of befor and after photos of the chassis. The photos seem to have come out in the wrong order but hopefully you will get the drift. Richard