Richeee

Well a month later am i able to get back in the garage. Work got in the way , this freelance stint now over ,and my son who has been living with me since he was pushed of the road by an hgv and broke his arm and leg, has required attention. Just that hes repairing well and we live in the middle of nowhere so come weekends We have been out and about trying to stop him going stir crazy 🤪. Hes now returned to his digs in Reading and is on a phased return to teaching so normal service is now resumed. Left it with the bottom of the rear tub being epoxied mastic. This is it 1 month later. Time to flip the tub upright and rub down the rest for the mastic 121 from rustbuster. But then remembered holes i knew about but had been putting off doing. These are to the rear deck where the hood would sit harbouring damp. Bit of a go with the welder and ground a bit with the finger file. Then i was inspecting under side of the wing tops by the b posts and decided i needed ro rub down and apply more rust convertor before apply the epoxy. So a few hoursdoing things I was not expecting to do. But is that not the way of it sometimes. To be continued.

Used it in a Range rover p38 that was losing water. Repeatedly topped up with any old coolant i had and then used k-seal. As a result it kept over heating, and noticed the sludge in the rad. It was subsequent to this i found out about different coolant types. The use of k seal which blocks holes by its nature could only have exasperated things. But as you say thats my personal view.

What ever you do dont mix them cause your losing water then add k seal for luck. Been there and got a very expensive T shirt. Flush out loads then stick to one.

They are. The one on show had reserve tap socket as well. Rimmer no. 517974xc On the photo i uploaded earlier they state new tooling for them.

Just answered my own question. Its on their website. End of May £374

At the spares day yesterday Rimmers had a new fuel tank and a sign advertising coming soon. The guy i spoke to was unable to confirm any more details and the others on the stall were all busy and I was unable to ascertain further details. Anybody else notice this ?

Right, here we go again. Not so much work this week as had to accept some paid employment for a few weeks. Im not old enough to retire but dont work as much as i should. But it was offered and a few bills to pay. Today however managed to grab a few hours. First thing first of course was load up the garage pie warmer. Then could commence. 2nd job was to remove the seat belt backing nut and plate from the old inner wing. Measure and mark on the new wing and remp hold in place with nut and bolt and weld it in position. The main object of the day was to coat the base of the tub in Rustbuster Epoxy primer / finish 121. So final holes were welded and grinding was undertaken. Tub turned upside down and painted with a brush and roller. This 121 can be a finish coat or a primer. Im using as a base, rust prevention layer whilst i do other jobs. Later on in the build it will be rubbed down, joints seam sealed. Then recoated in 121 befor recieving the body colour. It went on diffetent than i expected. Certainly thicker than i expected and they say dont over thin. It can be used with just an ordinary full face mask. Had 2 3kw fan heaters working away and now have left an oil readiater on to keep frost away. Will see what its like when it dries. Next job will be to swap the tub over and coat the rest of the tub in their 421 epoxy primer. With work commitments that may well not be for another week or so. To be continued.

Appreciated. Thanks.

Thank you for the trouble to reply. Appreciated. My restoration is bubbling along, and the purchase of Rustbuster epoxy primer got me thinking. The bulkhead and rear tub are now basically complete, as in my other postings , and im about to commence on the bonnet assembly welding on new wings etc. The idea will be in the autumn to start a dry assembly on to the chassis and start the alligning process. In my head i had the idea of painting the underneath and chassis my self at home along with areas like behind the valances, tub over lap joints etc in body colour before a body shop takes over and completes the final prep and spraying. I was thinking of somethinh like a synthetic enamel that i could use at home to use in out of sight and hard to spray areas. Assemble the body and let the body shop spray in 2k. Wondering how others have approched this?

Hi. Thought i knew the answere but then doubted myself. Bit like a pub quiz where your first thought is normally correct. I understand that Herald 13/60 chassis should be body colour. ? The front suspension turrets as well. All other components wish bones, diff, steering rack etc should be black. Sorry for the question but my classic loving mot man put a spanner in my thoughts. Looked at loads of pictures and seemed to be no consistency as most are of modern paint jobs and a lot of chassis are black. To most of you its simple. But only if you know the answere, otherwise the question is hard. Thanks.

Another good weather day for garage work yesterday. Previously during the week i had run out of gas, it seems my local stockist had stopped stocking hobbyweld and my next supplier did not have the correct size so a trip to Poole and back was required. The wheel well was next and is the last major bit to be done to the rear tub at this stage. In the garage roof got a reproduction panel including wheel well. So started drilling out the spot welds. Got it wrong. Drilled out the alternative side to the original floor. So instead of the original 50 odd plug welds now had over 100. My own blonde moment. Finally got it fitted. The rest of the boot floor panel minus the well is surplus to requirements. Its not as good as the orignal style pressing, and is 4 panels welded to make 1. But if somebody wants to collect they are more than welcome. Just message me. Swap for a bottle of supermarket red. All bar some grinding down of some exuberant welding and fitting of one of the seat belt nut/plate i have forgotten to transfer over from the inner rear arch, the rear tub is solid and repaired. Do have a problem however. The Herald rear lower wings generally are, at the B post, recessed from the upper wing and as they get to the rear arch they become level with the upper wing to the rear of the car. This i have fairly well replicated on the the offside. Nearside however its a bit more erractic. Going from 2mm at front to 4mm. And a bit of a depression in the wing. Bit of a pain. But a job for the body shop when its prepped and sprayed. 2mm of filler is not the end of the world. Not my intention to take wing off again. Missed it when welding the wing in. Maybe distortion from heat as well. So with the tub repaired , its now going to have epoxy primer applied as a protection. The Novol primer is only a temp protection and showing signs of slight oranging. It will be rotary wired brushed to clean, and Rustbuster 121 and 421 ordered. The 121 is going on the base and they advise this before seam sealer. The rest of the tub will recieve 421. After this it will be temporarily located on the chassis. The bulkhead already is repaired and altered to take the automatic gearbox, this will also recieve epoxy primer. Then the work on the bonnet can hopefully commence. The bonnet top and front panel are ok. But will require 2 new wings and arches. To be continued.

Thank you Colin. Like those hinges. In fact so much that yesterday evening did a bit of looking and found what i believe to be them under 'Triumph quarter light hinges' on ebay and purchased a set. Sometimes things just look right. It was nearly ' I liked it so much i bought the company' for those old enough to remember the advert. In this case only a pair not the company. Some times moan about Internet and the bad things, but in this case we can share ideas. Thanks again.

Just a quick update. Perfect garage day as rain beating across where i live. Started on the near side mount. Body upside down. Cutting out and preparing a patch. In hindsight perhaps i should had done one larger patch, but i did a series of smaller ones. The end result im quite happy with. The off side necessitated a bigger patch from the beginning. The old was cut / drilled / bashed away and some red zinc primer brushed on as per the other side. A panel was made up and welded in. Being plug welded to the thick supporting plate. Then seam sealed and primer. Not as pretty as the other side and towards the rear the new plate curves slightly upwards ( downwards in this photo) to the light bracket. As i was welding to the support plate forgot it curves. But its away from the rear outigger as the two locating holes are correct. Will need a bit more tidying up later. To be continued.

Just an hours work over the last few days. But did managed to remove the old wheel well. Wafer thin and a myriad of holes. With it removed it does give excellent access to the inderside of the rear deck. Which when dip stripped was I believe not fully accessible for primer. I had a go at derusting when i replaced the wings, but looking at it a better job is required. I will be able to sit under the tub with my head poking out through the hole. So another wire brush and some protection. Supposed to be a good forcast for garage work at the weekend. Rain for 2 days. So plenty of work and 2 rear mounts to sort out. To be continued.

Hi. Back to the garage as a wet day and the hedge cuttings can wait. Raised the tub on the stands as far asI could so i could just sit underneath and weld the upper and lower wings together. Access was still bad but managed to weld through the pre punched holes in the flange of the upper wing to the lower wing. Will need trimming and grinding, but will wait till i flip the tub again. Now moved on to the rear wheel well and the two rear mounting plates whilst the tub was upside down. With a spot weld drill started to drill out the well as badly holed and thin metal about to give up the ghost. Have a new well to go in. To be continued.

The springs and cables have be fine for a while, but now you have said that are bound to go. Grabbing hold of the end of the cable with a pair of mole grips and trying to locate on the end of the little hook is not a job i wish to do soon. One day will upgrade to roller doors which hopefully will fit better and be less drafty.

Back to the garage again. This time to weld the joint between the boot side and bottom of wing. Then the connection with the rear light bracket and rear of the wing. The side of the boot floor was very thin and began at first to chase holes and thought of replacing the boot side, but eventually managed to weld. Originally this would have been spotted welded but i ended up continuous welding a rough joint. My daughters partner took some photos of me at work. At the rear where it connected to the light bracket i had a while ago pondered wether i would have to make some ajustments as the wing was a bit short in height. Had altered the off side but had decided to leave the near side till the wing was on. As it turned out had to cut and lower the light bracket as the valance i trial fitted had too much of a gap to my liking. So the left of this light bracket is now level with the wing. The lhs may well need altering when i fit the valances again. Getting there. Next job will be to raise the tub as high as possible on the band stands to get under neath and weld the joint between upper and lower wing. On the other side i made holes in the upper wing flange to weld to the lower flange. But this gave me a very restricted space to weld in. This time i have puched holes in the lower wing. With the tub now inverted will have more room for the welding torch. Even though the tub will be above me. Or so thats the plan.................. To be continued....

Hi. Managed to grab a few hours in garage today. Still more welding on the rear wing. First off plug and them decided to seam weld the rear outer inner arch. A bad welding day today. Just did not want to go right. So only photos after grinding , seam sealing and primer are allowed for public viewing. Then the front of wing to b post. Next to be done will be the rear lower wing to boot floor. The rear upstand and the lovly contorted welding of the upper and lower wing. But fill first fit new tip , rearrange earth and tinker with welder. Next. To be expected the primer applied after dipping is soaking up some water from aotmosphere and very minor surface rust appearing. It will all be wired wheeled down and treated with epoxy mastic again later anyway. As normal to be continued....

Managed to grab a bit of time to continue with the welding of the wing. Started on the connection just behind the B post and the connection with the floor and inner arch. The welding will do for present. But i can certainly see time being spent with flap wheels etc before the final painting stages. Tried to form the curved return to the bottom of the inner arch. Not got a photo of the next bit but it was trimmed and ground and then finally some seam sealer and primer. To be continued probably with welding the overlap of the outer inner arch to the inner arch, but lots more to continue all round the wing.

Managed to grab a few hours in garage today, working on the offside rear new wing. First off ground down and seam sealed the weld of the new inner wing to outer around the arch. After that punched holes in the new wing. Followed by then drilling them bigger as in the other wing found out that needed the holes to be lager to obtain a decent plug weld. (Possibly my welding skills and heat levels) The upper wing has a flange on it that the bottom wing fixes to. On the inside of this flange is a downstand that that was preventing the new lower wing from having full movement inwards if required for allignment. So ground this off. Painted the rear deck internal and the inside of the upper rear wing, with Novol weld through primer. I had rust converted these aras as a result of not being sprayed because of poor access at stripping time. Also painted the rear wing and inner arch i had been working on. When dried a bit i retrial fixed into place. At the rear corner it was a much better fit than the nearside with the light bracket mounting which i had to adapt. Believe it wont be necessary to shorten this one but again time will tell. Next job , lots of plug welding and fit that wing. To be continued:

Pasty heating ability is another consideration.

Since you started this thread, i have been intrigued by the number of videos and ideas on using diesel heaters. Tbh never new they existed / or were used for garages. My intention today is hopefully go into my double garage and work on my herald rear wing. Approx 6 hours. Warmth being provided by 2 3kw heaters either side of the garage. 34p x 6kw x 6 hours Thats £12 on my hobby. I have a 1250 litre heating oil tank 3 foot from back of garage wall. Just ordered a new top up at 90p litre. Seems they run on heating oil. You have got me thinking.........

Purely by chance came across this video. I say chance because everything we do or read is being watched by advertisers etc. Anyway was reading the forum. Then went to go go on youtube and this video popped up about diesel heaters. May or may not be relavent.

Thanks, Found it , reading and learning more stuff. Ta.

Aye. Just got to cut bits out of this to repair and replace the well. Purchased from a guy who was going to replace his floor and never got round to it. Both corners and well need replacing. Not going to replace the whole panel as most is ok and going to retain as much as possible for rigidity and location.