Pettifordo
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Posts posted by Pettifordo
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So indicators stalk fixed and all the lights work except dipped beam on the near side - I’m planning to pick up some halogen conversions at the Classic car show - I will need to adjust the headlamps at some point - will have a chat to someone about that at the CCS.
I fitted pneumatic struts to the bonnet which certainly makes lifting that up and down much nicer.
Todays project was to fit sound / heat proofing and to start to get the carpets in.
I used some self adhesive foam with a foil backing - so it looks nice and smart. Not sure it will make much difference !! Took 6m x 0.5m to do the whole cockpit.
Then I put the carpet on top 🤣🤣🤣
Still need to glue all of that down.
Anyone have any tips for creating the holes in the carpet for the seats. I was thinking sharp mail from the underside - mark the spot and then make a cross slit with a Stanley knife.
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I fixed the brakes.
It seems that someone had welded an extra bit on to the top of the plunger, so that when this was installed in the master cylinder it meant that the master cylinder couldn’t travel all the way down the piston so I think that meant that the inlet value to the header tank didn’t open.
No idea why PO would weld such a thing on ????
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So no sealant (the gutter stuff) until the screen is in ?
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I tried and failed to fit the windscreen yesterday.
Do you place it over the windscreen surround and then pull through or try to push the bottom edge on and then pull the cord round ?
Also I tried without sealant -if you use this where do you put it ? In the same grove as the rope ? Doesn’t it get all messed up on the rope ?
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New one fitted - I had to remove the steering wheel and swap the windscreen wipers over.
The wiring on the new mini one was different to the original (same shaped plug but missing one of the pins) BUT when plugged in everything functioned - so I have kept the one that came on the mini one
Anyway bent the stalk a bit.
Thanks for the tip @Pete Lewis
I wonder why it worked with different wiring ?!?!?
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Where is the best place to purchase the sealed beam headlight units ?
Or am I best to upgrade to halogen ones ? If so where to buy those ?
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Thanks - I’ve ordered one - how did you bend it @AlanT
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Assume they aren’t repairable 😞
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Do I have the take the steering column off to fix it ?
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Moving under its own power
But now the frustrating part is starting with the electrics.
The main beam switch has given up and one of the head lights doesn’t work (this it could be the unit)
This stuff takes for ever….
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The main beam switch on my 1980 Spitfire 1500 has gone “floppy” and main beam does engage.
I’m in the middle of restoring and last week got all the indicators working and I’m sure it was ok then.
Anyone experienced this ? Any advice about how to fix it ?
The indicators and horn still work ok.
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I am rebuilding my Spitfire 1500 with a single line system on the brakes.
I purchased a new clutch and brake cylinder from ANG Classic Car Parts.
Bleeding the clutch was straight forward.
When I have come to bleed the brakes I can’t get any fluid to leave the header tank.
The master cylinder seems to be able to provide pressure (without fluid in header tank and with my thumb over the outlet hole I get some pressure build up when I depress the plunger ).
Anyone seen this before ? Do I have to do something to prime the system ? What is the best way to check the inlet value ?
thanks
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On 19/09/2022 at 20:25, chrishawley said:
Bradex Easy Start
So - I got the part to attach the clutch cable and some Bradex Easy Start as per @chrishawley recommendation.
With the plug leads sorted and the timing almost right the engine would first for 3-4 firing and then die if I used the easy start.
So the problem was fuel.
I check fuel getting to the carbs and that was ok.
Then checked the needles where moving up and down ok - and the back was sticking right at the bottom - so I had this off and gave it a good clean with some pipe cleaners and also filled the pots with some EP90 oil. Front and rear moving smoothly.
The I checked the float chambers - rear was full but front was dry. The value was stuck shut ! Soaked with carb cleaner and eventually it moved and freed up.
Re-assembled and……it works !
But tappy but can sort that - the clutch also works (rear wheel off before you worry I did that when driving)
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40 minutes ago, Josef said:
faffing with mine till I realised there just wasn’t enough in the tank to let it get going
I think I will try some more fuel - good idea - and will check the dash pots
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So more progress today :-
one reversing light, drivers seat (one of the captive nuts in the new floor gave way 😡😡 Not even my welding), indicators light up but don’t flash (assume I need a new flasher unit), choke cable fitted (but missing connection to carbs (more on that later), petrol pipes done (E10), clutch bleed……and it almost started !!!
I wasted time by trusting the PO timing and plug leads……anyway it seemed to be upside down and timing was at least 10 degrees out. Once that was sorted I was starting to get some coughing and spluttering and then the battery started to fail 😩😩😩
I’m hoping that with the choke connected and the battery charged we should be good - or what else might be stopping it ?
Anyone got any tips on how to manually set the dizzy to get the first firing ? I can use a timing light once it is running. My current method is to rotate to TDC and then line up the dizzy cap with the rotor arm for plug lead number 1 by eye……but I’m open to ideas.
The bit for the choke is coming on Wednesday so will try to start it once I have a choke.
The other problem could be fuel - I am getting some to the carbs but don’t know how to check “how much is enough” - I remember my old Spit had a dodgy fuel pump that meant it would cut out over higher RPM - should I think about just replacing the fuel pump ?
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On 18/09/2022 at 09:40, Badwolf said:
none binary
Until I get it back on the road I won’t know what the car is…
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4 hours ago, AlanT said:
of filing sorted things.
Check fuses - all ok - then wiggles the connections and they worked 👍
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On 14/09/2022 at 19:21, Pettifordo said:
Also what does the red switch on the right do !
The switch is for rear fog lights ! But with a replacement switch
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More progress today, pedals and master cylinders in plus battery and solenoid.
The car turns over and some of the electrics work…..not the windscreen wipers 🧐 Will have to check the fuses.
Ignition lights up the dipped beam light and the main beam lights up the ignition so not a very good hit rate on multiple random positions !!! Will have those off tomorrow and see if I can fix the tacho at the same time 🤣
Fuel lines on Saturday….then I might try to start her/him/it
Once I add the oil / water and bleed the brakes etc etc etc etc
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40 minutes ago, Josef said:
see if it can be resurrected
Thanks - it is Electronic - I will check the wiring first
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I meant the switch outlined on green
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Carbs on and dashboard back together.
Next job is the clutch / brake master cylinders etc
Then a battery 👍
Anyone have any idea which the tacho is reading 1,200 rpm ?? Also what does the red switch on the right do !
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Been away for a few weeks but back on the case now.
Fitting the exhaust was harder than expected !!
The new exhaust manifold and the old twin pipes didn’t want to play nicely together - welder sorted it out in the end in a forced marriage 🤪🤪
Carbs next 👍
Spitfire 1500 - Re-Living My Youth (RLMY)
in My Triumph Restoration Project
Posted
What a great idea !