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Just an aside from bitter personal experience, I got a friends son to spray my car in 2K . He ended up doing it 3 times and even now its not great. One of the issues was he sprayed it for the second time in my garage which is chock a block with spares and a cupboard full of lotions and potions. The finish dried with lots of pock marks and fissures. We showed it to a refinishing chap and he said it was caused by silicon contamination from the polishes in my cupboard. The 2K can pull it in from the atmosphere apparently. It was a case of 3rd time lucky when it was decontaminated away fronm the site and sprayed elsewhere to an acceptable standard. see http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/paint-faults.htm fisheyes

For no other reason than I finally got it out the garage I attach a photo, after being taken off the road in 1992 for some tidying up I ended up moving house twice and having 2 kids. Ive finally got my priorities right and Im finishing it off. I just cant take the chance of leaving an oil trace on the road or the wife might be able to follow me and drag me back to cut the lawn or something

Thanks everyone , Pete was right about varifocals hence the typo about 20/40 instead of 20/50. Between the fingers the stuff that's in there is more like olive oil but the car hasn't been on the road for......ahem .... a long time. I am going to get one of the steel sealing blocks from the club and try to do it properly, a few weeks delay in the scheme of things.

Thanks guys, I must admit I hadnt seen the sealing block in the club shop. I will give them a ring. I may as well try and do it properly, I havent had much success rethreading specially if I am trying to do it lying on my back.

Hi, Im just getting my 13/60 ready for its first MOT in a long long time, I did the timing and tweaked the Carb and I was planning on giving it an oil change however. Im a bit disappointed by how much oil is already seeping from the front of the engine. I know it is fitted with the Triumph throughput system where you put it in the top and it comes out the bottom but its more than a drip. On inspection it seems to be the usual culprit, stripped threads on the Sump bolts into the sealing block. Ive done a search but Im still unclear how hard this would be to change in situ ? Are the replacement alloy sealing blocks worth the money and are they standard for all the 4 cylinder engines ? Also I read something about wooden spacers - or did I dream that bit. The oil that is in the engine is very thin, Ive bought some decent 20/40 so that may be less leaky but I will need to address this at some time just trying to gauge how much of a job. As usual all asistance gratefuly received Steve

Just completed the "conversion" after my dynamo bit the dust in spectacular fashion. I used the regulator box just to keep it looking neat. I drilled out the contacts and mounted them using small bolts, carefuly insulated from each other. I got concerned over the 34Amp Alternator output versus the 25AMp dynamo output so rightly or wrongly I fused the new connections and also ran an additional wire direct from the alternator to the Battery side of the solenoid. Seems to work OK.

Cheers Pete,finally got the body on after a fashion so bolting on the ancillaries.such fun !

Hi David, hope you dont mind me butting in to your post My 1969 13/60 came with a Delaney heater. As expected the valve eventualy started leaking and was beyond help. Ive gone mad and spent the kids pocket money on a replacement but I see it comes with a colied tube (capillary) which my old one didnt have. Can anyone tell me what it does / where it goes ?

Thanks guys, just to prove Im no mechanic. The reason I couldn't get the upper mount on was because the steering joint near the rack was seized on. Once I stripped that down and cleaned it up it gave me the extra 1/2" needed to get the bolts into the dash end .Panic over. Although now you've got me worried about wiper spacing - this restoration hobby is murder.

good point Darren, I will try that , the diagram doesn't really show which way round. thanks

Not that Im panicking yet but Ive just started refitting the dash to my 13/60 and Im having trouble getting the steering column upper mounting bolts to line up with the holes in the bottom of the dash. Everything else seems to line up ie: the screw mounts at the top of the dash and the 4 side bolts of the metal dash frame. It occurred to me that I bought the bulk head some years ago and was told it was 13/60 but never thought to check if there are any differences with other varieties of the same era ? Is this just a case of perseverance ?

Im sure this has been discussed before but has anyone got some good tips or suggestions regarding fitting a Fuse Box into a 1360 ? So far I have fitted a new fuse box in the upper part of the footwell. I have run wires from the "ignition on" part of the starter switch to the live side of the Fuse box and then from the fused side to various items I guessed would benefit from being protected, ie: wiper motor , heater . I read about not having both lamps on the same fuse so you have always got some lighting for safety but is it OK to fuse brake lights ? I intend keeping my dynamo partly because changing to alternator would mean sourcing a new Tacho and I will be using ordinary bulbs to start with. I may upgrade to Halogen at a later date using relays. Any info or pictures would be gratefully received as the dash is out so its a good time to be doing it all.Thanks in advance