Kevin.payne.15

Thanks all. I measured the coil and it’s 1.5 ohm. I contacted the 123 ignition people last night and they confirmed that 1.5 is absolutely fine so I’ll try and get a loom without the extra wire and or just remove it. Thanks kevin

So in summary I think what your saying is to check with the 123 guys just to make sure it’s a 12 v sports coil I have and then, assuming it is, order the loom without the ballast wire or if not possible then go for the resistance wire option but then disable it on installation is this correct? And yes happy new year to all. Kevin

Thanks Pete. I think someone prior to me has already done this. Whilst I have two wires going to the positive feed of the coil, the second one goes directly to the distributer ( I suspect to power it) and I don’t have a pinky one ill ask autosparks if they can delete this cable. What did the ballast wire/resistor do anyway? kevin

Hi all. After much discussion and seeing the earlier threads I’m going to replace the loom whilst the dash is out. I’ve looked on the auto sparks site but they have two for a gt 6 and mine is the swapover year. How do I tell if I need a ballast resistor or resistance wire loom. I have converted the ignition to a 123 distributer if that makes any difference. Thanks kevin

Pete. Why the forecast? Poor quality replacements I understand but it’s only an o ring. Surely it can’t be that hard to make a decent o ring? Kevin

Thanks guys. Seal now out. Intact but very hard. What oil are people using in the dashpot? I’ve generally used conventional engine oil but is this too viscous? kevin

Panic over. I pushed a little harder and it dropped out! So I presume I push the adjusting screw in the opposite direction and remove it from the top? Is this correct? thanks kevin

Ok I’m stuck ! I’ve re inserted the grub screw in the side and can see that it’s engaging in the slot machined in the metering needle assembly. If you “undo” from the top then the needle assembly moves out about 1 mm and the shoulder protrudes about 0.5 mm from the base of the dashpot. And that’s about as far as it wants to go. Turning the needle adjusting screw is easy but then “jumps” as though it’s run out of threads and the “jump” is where it’s going over the first thread on the metering needle assembly looking at the picture then the slot in the metering needle assembly has a fixed length and so unless the grub screw is removed then it won’t be allowed out - is this correct ? Should the needle be an easy remove or is it always very tight? I’ve tried screwing the adjusting screw in two threads and then pushing down (to try and encourage the needle out) but that didn’t do anything either so I’m stuck help please ! Kevin

Well that’s a worry then. Chapter 3 section 22 note 7 of the GT6 book says undo grub screw and even shows it in a picture. Im pretty miffed at Burlen because usually they give great advice but I spoke to them yesterday and they never mentioned anything other than an o ring at 53p each. So that’s all I’ve ordered. Yes agree that I started on not being able to start the car but with these things it starts somewhere but migrates to other issues as I put in my engine rebuild article last month its the story of my car!

Doug et al. Yes I have top adjusting ones. I’ve taken out the piston and removed the grub screw on the side. The needle is obviously lose but doesn’t want to drop out. It feels like it’s sprung loaded. I don’t want tug too much because I don’t know how it’s held in. I’ve read the Haynes Manuel for all the good that did. It just says remove the grub screw Any clues as to how to remove please. If it comes out without twisting the internal adjuster will the needle go back in the same space ? thnaks kevin

Ok thanks. Food for thought how does one get the needle out please is it the screw on the side or the internal screw from the top ? Also, whilst I know I have fuel getting to the carb, I was expecting when I lifted the dashpot to get some flooding of petrol ....but don’t could that mean I’ve got the fuel pressure regulator set too low? It’s set on 2 which I think means 2 psi kevin

I haven’t had a chance to start the engine for a couple of months and now won’t start at all. I’ve checked to make sure the fuel pump is working by taking the fuel line off of the rear carb and petrol comes out - not fast but steady flow ive put a strobe on the front spark plug line and turning the engine over, the strobe flashes so I think I’m getting a spark ive taken a look at the carbs and the rear dash pot is very easy to lift where as the front one is very stiff. I’ve investigated and taking the tops off, the rear dashpot was empty where as the front was full of oil. I don’t think this is the cause of not starting but it’s something else to fix ive lifted the dashpot when turning the engine over but haven’t seen petrol leaking out - thought that I might have the fuel regulator too low(it’s set at 2 psi) but it’s always been the same so help please, what else should I check and also suggestions for the oil leak in the dashpot please regards kevin

Thanks. Where did you find a Fahler cap please? Thanks Kevin

I hoped that I had left behind my water problems since my last submission (Vesuvius has erupted) and the gt6 had been running nicely For the first few runs I had checked coolant levels and didn't notice much change However I hadn't filled with antifreeze so tonight I thought I would drain and replace ......only to find that the overflow bottle was absolutely filled up and the rad down on water The only thing I can think of is that the rubber hose betweeen the filler neck and bottle has a leak hence water can drain out but doesn't get sucked up when the rad cools seems logical to me but it doesn't appear to have a leak Has anyone else suffered from this ailment? Thanks in advance Kevin

This is mine from Moss. Looks like it will fit but will confirm at the weekend Kevin

Guys. The problem might be solved. I went to Moss in Bristol as I happened to be passing and got their helpful person who looked through ( I think a tr book) and found a plastic two wire job. Doesn't appear in the other catalogues Bought one for a few quid and will report at the weekend if it does the job. Kevin

This is the wiring diagram that kinda works for me. It shows a positive from th fuse to the light and then onto the alternator Attached is the photo of what I've been sent but need a two wire version http://www.mygt6.com/site/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/GT6MkIIIwiring.jpg

Whilst fiddling the other day I thought I would investigate why the charging light never comes on Only slightly surprised to find that I didn't actually have a bulb in the bulb holder. It's a replacement holder demanding a non standard bulb that I've failed to source - it doesn't have a metal cap end at all just bare wires poking to either side of a flat. A colleague in the club kindly sent me a replacement holder but his one only has one cable and mine appears to need two ( so the wiring diagram suggests). I've tried soldering on a wire but it drops off - I think because I can't get the holder hot enough So does anyone know a source of smiths based charging light bulb holders or a very small cap less bulb please Thanks kevin

Regards. To be honest I didn't ask at that stage. They hot pressure tested and recommended trying the head in its current state and I was only too pleased to go along with this Subsequent to this I've secured a route to x ray the head if necessary to see how far the crack goes in if it does develop and will worry then Wish me luck! Kevin

Richard I think this is an incorrect interpretation of the situation. I took the head to them to cur a pair of valves in and it was them that took it upon themselves to check the remainder and in doing so found a crack in an inlet valve seat They pressure tested hot and advised that it was tight but couldn't comment on if is was new or old and if it would grow over time. The I'd take a look at inserting a valve seatbut because of space constraints couldn't. I was pleased with their service and would recommend them. Kevin

I'll investigate tomorrow night and see if we have a swimming pool on top of a piston. Ok so DY believed there was a slight crack in the inlet valveseat of no 1 bore but they tested and believed acceptable but warned that they can quickly spread hence my worst fears Kevin

Thanks for the advice. Will investigate. DY and going to recheck the leak for me and I'll check the block flatness as well as the head Will also check that I have sufficient thread on the studs because it could be that with the head skim in now not torquing the head down but am bottomoming out on the thread I also tried the spitfire grave yard for a replacement head but no joy. Does anyone else know of a source of heads? Thanks Kevin

Didn't check the rad - will check with son to see if he recollects but I think it must have because we had mist coming out of the neck of the road from the hot water

Thanks for the contributions. I had the head skilled a few months ago which was part of the journey that we've been on. So I believe it's flat. Very happy with DY service since they cut the valves in beautifully and also identified the crack which they pressure tested hot and found to be good So what happened exactly is that we kept topping up with water and saw continual pulses of th eleven going up and down. When we stopped then we had a large eruption of water so much so that we had to mop the floor. This isn't a dribble ! Head gasket has a tab on the back and says top so it's in the right place and orientation Question is if I take the head off again how do I tell if the gasket is leaking or not? I presume that if I re apply without gasket then I can check flatness at the periphery if nothing else I didn't use gasket sealing compounds - are they recommended? Kevin

Thanks all. I fear we have either a gasket or head problem. When running we thought we had lots of bubbles and then when we stopped the engine ( we hadn't fitted the rad cap by this stage ) we had a whole load of water suddenly erupt from the rad. We had the valves recently recut by DY engines who spotted a feared crack but pressure tested it hot and it was fine so not sure where to go now Pretty sure we have the right gasket. The block has recessed rings and the gasket has solid inserts to match. Suggestions? Take head off and check its flat? Reseal a gasket again ( I didn't use any sealant on it) pressure test head again? Give up and start drinking ? Regards Kevin