Kevin.payne.15

Found one in the proper owners manual thanks

Thanks all. I think what I need are some PIN numbers vs wire colours. Ill take the wiper off and try reversing then. Kevin

All thanks. Shaun. Yes I’ve previously down loaded this version but there are some errors such as the wiper contact numbers are wrong I think. Or at least they don’t match my car .....which most prob means my car is wrong ! What I don’t get is how does the switch actually work. I think that when off the then one contact means that the green goes to the directional flasher and then that allows the indicators to work when on then the green is disconected and the hazard flasher unit comes into play. But how does the hazard flasher get connected ? Casper. Thanks for this - not sure I quite get this one either! All help appreciated. Thanks kevin

All does anyone happen to have a continuity diagram for the hazard switch from a GT6. Live rewired the car and two out of 3 circuits are fine. The main ingnition green and white wires aren’t correct and I’ve made a mistake somewhere. Choices are hazard switch or main ignition one. When I connect the battery then the hazard flasher clicks but the bulbs don’t. I can’t stop it even if I turn the switch off ! When I click the ignition to live the I get the ignition light on. So before I rip all out and start again I’m going to check continuities but don’t understand the working of that particular switch im sure someone out there will! Thanks in advance kevin

Thanks All Ok so Breather found and looks cleanish - before I remove and find myself in a mess - how do you check correct operation ?? Is it simply blow with an airline and see if it gets through?? Kevin

Ok thanks. Where is the breather please. I’ve looked but haven’t found. Also. I’ve looked on the rimmer site for the d type overdrive which is on the spitfire site not GT6 one and yes they have seals listed but no image to show where fitted. Suggestions pls. Kevin

All. Has anyone else experienced a leaking oil seal from the overdrive to the speedo cable? Ive just had my dials restored by speedy cables who advised me that the speedo was contaminated with gear oil and they suspected a leaking oil seal at the gearbox (d type overdrive for me ) i looked this weekend and unfortunately it looks like they might be correct. I’ve removed the angle drive but the main unit is stuck. I think I need to also remove exhaust pipe to access the locking bolt at the end of the overdrive - is this correct? when I looked at the Canley web site I think the oil seals are not serviceable unless I have the wrong parts. There is one o ring but that doesn’t appear to be near the rotating shaft. Also the main unit ( the bit that actually goes into the overdrive) has a couple of flats that suggest it should be screwed in but isn’t tight and actually rocks back and forth a few degrees. Overall not encouraging. Has anyone else explored.? Do I bother? Can you get seals? How do I remove with gearbox still in car but cover removed. I’m sure someone out there has beaten me to this problem thanks in advance kevin

Dave et al. I’ve dug out my very ancient spit 4 book and there it is in the colours I have. Obviously different to a GT6 book. Only problem is it doesn’t show where it connects in. Just says a and b ... but a and b don’t exist on the actual diagram. Normal level of helpfulness then i think I can make up to suit but thanks for the help kevin

Thanks. I’ll create a loom as such. Kevin

Guys I’m not so concerned by the fuel pump wire as I realise this is a recent addition and was connected here because it was convenient What i am concerned as to what the unit was meant to be doing in the first place. Once I know this then hopefully I can make new wring to suit so does anyone else have this relay and what’s it for - it’s the one nearest the battery that’s the concern thanks kevin

Pete.thanks I’m presuming I have the d type if I have this relay fitted. Any chance of a wiring diagram in your archives that I could have a copy of? What I don’t understand is why the loom didn’t come with the necessary wires - strange and concerning There wasn’t even the option on the autosparks site Thanks kevin

Overdrive is fitted but Haynes suggests feed is from twin greens. But Haynes has been wrong in the past! kevin

Sorry yes GT6 mk 3 the one relay by the servo is for horns but the other one is unknown. Problem is that this one also feeds the fuel pump and goodness only knows what else. Does anyone else have a second relay here? thanks kevin

Guys thanks for all the previous help on wiring loom replacement. I’ve made some progress and have replace the ends and am now working on the middle and have come up with a component that I don’t have wires in the loom to connect so I’m beginning to panic that I’ve got the wrong loom! On the bulkhead next to the battery I have 3 components, the round is the hazard flasher , the one nearest the drivers side is the horn relay, my problem is the one in the middle -see attached image. It has 6 wires attaching to it. The top connector has 3 wires , one to the electric fuel pump, one to the inside of the car ( not sure on this one as I haven’t taken the dash out yet) and the last one is a white. The middle horizontal has a thick brown which I presume is the power circuit, the lower ones are white purple and lastly white green thanks in advance kevin

I’ll remove thanks. i Found a one para reference in acspitfire manual that simply says rewrite in the same way as installed! Really helpful! kevin

Presumed it had to be. What does one do with the green purple single wire? Currently on the old unit has the two reds going into one spade with the black on the other is it not easier to refit a unit? kevin

Guys thanks lot for helping me sort the wiring. I’ve started stripping out today with the method that a brake one connection and replace it with the new one. Was doing quite well until I came across this component located on the off side near the fuel inlet looks like mr bodge has been here before me ! Component markings are Lucas England. Top II RA on the little round boss. As you can see the wiring is a complete mess with everything going into connectors bypassing the unit so can only presume it’s not working. Is it a night dimmer ? does anyone know : A what is it if not a night dimmer B how do I test if it’s working C where do I get a replacement if it’s not? D how do I wire up the new wiring loom at this point has 2 reds wired together, 2 green purp wired together, 2 blacks wired together, 2 green whites separate, 2 green reds separate and lastly a green purple = 11 wires in total going into 9 connectors with 9 spades on the unit thanks kevin

ok so this is what happens when I go to work for a day, some how a question regarding modifying the wiring mutates onto preferences for pain killers ! Given that I’m 4 days into dry jan I’m not allowed the booze either given the copious responses then what I think is happening is that actually the car has been running on the 6 v supply, it’s just that the 123 wasn’t told so coped with it! I think that what we need to do is get the resistive wire loom (because it’s closest to the installed) then rip it apart and replace the pink/white resistance wire with standard cable and get the coil to run at 12 volts I might even remove the white/ yellow end by the coil just to tidy it up think this should work if I understand I really wished I had paid attention to the electronics module at college Tried autosparks but they can’t supply for 6 -7 weeks whereas rimmer have I stock but at a significant price hike looks like I’ll have to raid the piggy bank a little deeper thanks for your support kevin

attached is the critical element of the diagram. As per the earlier thread, the pink and white is going to have to be disconnected thanks kevin

Guys. New snag unfortunately! 123 have confirmed that I definitely don’t want the resistance wire which is great. The other mod on the car is that the starter motor has been changed out and the solenoid is now on the side of the motor (club shop purchase) which means I have a tangle of brown cables all connecting into the battery live cable half way down. The one that isn’t connected is the white yellow (I think it’s white yellow but see above it’s pretty hard to see) but it terminates at the same position as the browns so I’m pretty certain. This means the car has been running solely on the resistance wire connection Does anyone know how the white/yellow from the solenoid normally becomes live when the ignition is turned on? If I replicate my current set up in the new loom ( with the resistance wire removed) then I won’t get power to the coil at all! sorry to be a pest but thanks in advance for your help if necessary I do have a wiring diagram that I can share for this bit that matches my car! kevin

colin thanks. I think it matches closer than anything I’ve got. I think one issue is that my white wires are so old and discoloured that they actually look yellow. So when I see a pale yellow wire I’m presuming it’s white where as in this case it’s actually yellow. Thanks. Kevin

Guys. On an allied theme, does anyone have a decent pictorial wiring diagram that includes the overdrive for a me 3 the one that I downloaded doesn’t have overdrive on it. I’ve looked in the Haynes manual but the colours I have are completely different - what a surprise I hear when I look in my old spitfire manual I have the same colours as a mk 4 ......but it doesn’t show how it links into the loom. thanks kevin

Guys. Yes it’s a pair from 123 ignition - both distributor and coil. So I think I’ll stick with the resistive wire version but just not wire it up thanks and HNY kevin

Guys. Thanks for the advice. I think the sensible compromise is to get the resistive wire loom version but just not fit it and leave as a just in case. There is little chance of going backwards from the 123 as this means a whole new distributer but it would be worthwhile protecting this option I suspect. Kevin

I’m confused Dave. Below is my email chain with the guys at 123 - their response at the top . Suggestions ? Hi Kevin You do not need a résistance A 123 can be used with a low résistance coil above 1 ohm A 1.5 ohm coil give a stronger spark A 3.0 ohm coil is for contact breakers Henry Hebels Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone. -------- Oorspronkelijk bericht -------- Van: Kevin Payne <k.cpayne@blueyonder.co.uk> Datum: 30-12-17 17:41 (GMT+01:00) Aan: 123ignition-conversions <h.hebels@planet.nl> Onderwerp: Re: 123triumph Dear Henry As you will see from the email chain you have converted my GT6 Distributer last year and its been Ok Ive now decided to replace the wiring loom for and the guys that make the loom have asked me to confirm if i need a ballast wire or resistance wire solution. Upon investigation it would appear that i don’t have either ! Ive asked the Triumph forum and they suggest that if i have a 3 ohm sports coil then i don’t need a resistor or a wire but if i have a 1.5 ohm coil then i do. Does this make sense to you ?? Ive measured my coil and its 1.5 ohm i believe If this is the case would you recommend swapping to a 3 ohm coil and if so would you have one available please ? Regards Kevin Payne