coxy123
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Everything posted by coxy123
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I have been unable to locate the sender wire at gauge end. If I ran a new wire , does it have to be a certain thickness/type of wire.
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Hi, Just a quick up-date. I took the points out and the low-tension wire had come unsoldered/seperated from the points. Resoldered it and put it all back together and the car fired up first time. I thought it would be something stupid. I'm still wanting to fit the electronic ignition but i'll save that for another day. Thanks for you're help, until the next problem, Steve
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Almost forgot. Thanks as always
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Sparkrite kit5 I'll check the insulation on points spring
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I've just tried to fit electronic ignition to my 1500 spitfire. I couldn't get it to fire at all so I swapped it all back to points and it still wont fire. Turns over but no spark. Please help I'm going mad
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Thanks
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I took gearbox out last night, just giving everything good clean before I put it back together. I've welded a washer on the top of the pin
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Had to take gearbox out. Looking at it, I would never have got everything lined up from the outside
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Should I put any sort of lube on the input shaft and release bearing before I put gearbox back on
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I've had a poke with a screwdriver. There's no pin but the hole looks about 8mm. So to recap, do I need to remove the tunnel or not. As was said earlier, it's lining the arm up that's difficult
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the fluid level is good. It makes sense that the pin has come out of the actuating arm, just cant my head round how it can be replaced without removing the gearbox
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thanks nick, wilI I have to split the the bell housing from the engine to access this pin
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Hi, i went out in my 1500 non overdrive spitfire last night. it drove great,did about 40 miles, until i was on my way home and I couldn't get it into gear, the clutch pedal wont go down far enough. Any thoughts please
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Checked the cars registration on dvla checker website before buying it. All came back clean. Spoke to dvla, they gave me the impression it wasn't a big deal and to send form off . Time will tell. I'll keep you posted
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thanks for replying. Its a 1977 model.cant see anything there and i dont think they gave a chassis no. either
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hi i havebought a tr7. no v5 sheet and the car doesn't have a vin plate.How d i go about registering it
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Thanks you've been a big help. Will get a new coil asap. Tried a direct feed from battery to coil just does the same thing.
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it seems to be 8 v
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oh yeah sorry my mistake. 12v + to earth, 12v - to earth, 0v across the terminals
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Ignition was on. So as my ballast wire seems to not be working/present, 12v ignition coil is the best option?
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3.5 ohms across coil 0v +ve to -ve 12v +ve to earth 0v -ve to earth Ignition circuit exact same as 1977 US in Haynes. So it has a ballasted wire in loom. Everything seems to be pointing at wrong coil.
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appologies. not good with electrics.it was reading 12v
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3.5 ohms
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thought i had. It has got a white and pink ballast wire. So I assumed a 1.5 ohm unballasted coil was correct
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Thanks for all you're input.it still won't fire. We think it must be a faulty coil. We've found it is wired as a US car ,with 4 fuses. It has a white/pink ballast wire. So thoughts are to get a new coil, from the comments i have received, I think a 1.5 ohm unballasted coil is the correct one. If someone can confirm this or tell me different that would be good. Thanks Steve
