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coxy123

TSSC Member
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Everything posted by coxy123

  1. I'm assuming it's a 3 ohms balasted coil. What do you suggest
  2. Run a wire from battery to coil
  3. There is no spark in the distributor when we turn the engine over
  4. Hi Pete. I'm steve with the red spitfire from twiddle day. We checked points look ok as best I can see. Gap was good
  5. The fuel is ok. It's on the plugs. Just no spark . I think the problem could be the voltage to the coil. We put a meter across it and it read 3
  6. Thanks for your reply. The rotor arm in the dizzy is a strange disc affair. Do I have to take that off to check for a spark. Apologies for being dumb.
  7. Hi, just got a tr7. Non runner. I can get it to turn over but can't get a spark. Any help would be appreciated
  8. hi, a big thank you to pete and ray. my car ran much better on the way home. all in all it was a very interesting and helpful day. i would recommend attending in the future to any members. cheers Steve, red 1500 spitfire
  9. I am in the process of refurbing my 1500 spitfire. my question is 'how difficult is it to put a new door skin on'
  10. The bulkhead gap is about 10mm and even all along. Door gaps can be altered on doors. Car had a fibreglass bonnet on it, so things may have been jiggled to accommodate that
  11. Hi, fitting a steel bonnet onto the spit. I've noticed the wheel arch on the car doesn't line up with the bonnet arch. I've tried packing the joint at the overrider pivot, with very limited success. Any wisdom on this matter would be helpful
  12. cheers for all your replies. I have no under felt under the carpet either. Going to fit a new carpet set so i'll be able to do all the above suggestions at that point. Should make it a bit quieter inside as well.
  13. Not sure if this is the correct section for this, but my car seems to be running well, temp gauge gets to about 1/4 mark. The problem is how hot it gets inside the car. There seem to be several heat reflective products on the market or is there a more sinister cause. Thanks
  14. Thanks for your help. It was the sender unit that needed replacing. All good. Now onto the next problem.
  15. Hi, I have a 1500 Spitfire. The temperature gauge has stopped working. All of the wires look intact and connected. Any suggestions please
  16. The repair kits didnt work. So new master and slave cylinders are on order as Richard said in the beginning
  17. I've got both the master cylinder and slave cylinder off. The rubber seals were shot in both. Repair kit is on order from rimmers. Thanks for your help . Hopefully it'll be straight forward now
  18. the tunnel is off anyway, so I could bleed the clutch.
  19. I havent changed either the master or the slave but they look in good order. I have used the car more than usual resently and I noticed the clutch biting point seemed very low. I checked the master cylinder and the fluid was low.
  20. hi I have a 1978 1500 spitfire. I have been trying to bleed the clutch. It has had about 1 litre of dot4 fluid through it and im still getting bubbles in the bleed tube. it wont go into gear unless i pump the clutch peddle. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks
  21. On my 1978 Spitfire there is only 2 fuses, the 3rd has a broken holder and at some point in its past it has been replaced with a loop wire and an in-line fuse. All the electrics work correctly, My question is, is it worth it and how hard is it to replace the fuse box.
  22. When the car appeared for sale in the 'courier', I had several phone calls about it and the first person who looked at it bought it. I would recommend advertising anything in the courier before you try anywhere else.Thanks for all the feedback
  23. floor and sills are shot i'm afraid to say. I did intend to restore her but it's beyond me. The chassis/suspension and steering look good as are most of the outer panels and doors. I'm in Rugby, Warwickshire
  24. I've advertised it on club website. Been on for a month, absolutely no response. Been offered £60 by local srapyard. Think thats the way to go now
  25. I think I have finally tracked down the problem. The terminals on the wiper motor were loose. I am assuming they kept touching causing a short and blowing the fuse. I have replaced all the terminal connections on the wiper motor and (touch wood) , it hasn't blown since. The moral of this story, don't assume it's something you have done and carry a bag of 35 amp fuses. Thanks for all your input, I've learnt loads going through the different theories. Steve
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