Brian Sculpher Posted February 2, 2023 Report Share Posted February 2, 2023 I recently replaced my clutch complete BORG & BECK. I also replaced the bearing and carrier ensuring the locking pin was installed. All appeared OK until start up as there was a continual flutter/clatter until the clutch was depressed. Gearbox removed again all appeared to be correctly fitted although follow start up the noise persisted. The clutch slave cylinder ( replaced some months earlier) was bleed as a precaution. The clutch slave cylinder activation fork was replaced for the adjustable type. After some further adjustments (rod adjusted longer than the standard type) the clutch operation and release was now much improved from the sharp snap release. The car drives fine and the clutch and gearbox works as it should —- apart from the constant metal type flutter which reduces when the car is in direct drive mode. CAN ANYONE ASSIST ME - getting to the route cause of my problem Best Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 2, 2023 Report Share Posted February 2, 2023 having a budgie in the clutch is not uncommon it is lack of pressure on the throw out which being new and a little stiff skids on the diaphragm fingers a light touch on the C pedal stops the skid a light spring added to to throwout lever( even a bit of bungy cord( to add a light pressure keeps it all spining together should silence it generaly improves with use if its in bits check the engine back plate is not bent as gearbox misalignment will not help Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Sculpher Posted February 2, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2023 Hello Pete, Just so I fully understand your comments. The activation rod fork and spring were also replaced within the gearbox when installing the new clutch. So my understanding is if I was to apply a little more pressure on the fork rod leaving the slave cylinder that might stop the budgie flutter. Would I be able to test that theory as when the adjustable rod is at full travel are you saying apply a little more thrust. I’m confident the gearbox was realigned correctly as my chum is well known in TR circles Graham Waggers although he is also baffled by the noise. Is it likely with use it will go away as I don’t want to incur unnecessary damage by continual use - what say you? Best Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foshi Posted February 2, 2023 Report Share Posted February 2, 2023 not the same car, but had the same on my toyota hiace new clutch kit slave cylinder all blue print so good quality touch the clutch pedal noise gone lasted around 2000 miles then went ,since covered 10000 with out problems paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 2, 2023 Report Share Posted February 2, 2023 it does normally disapear with use as the bearing and its seals free up so it spins easier i dont undersatn why you need any extension to the push rod loss of travel is usually down to the fork dowel bolt sheared and the outside lever is then sitting in the wrong position but you have changed all that ?? here is some good reading Clutch — Buckeye Triumphs Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Sculpher Posted February 2, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2023 Thank you Pete and all other contributions - most helpful Many thanks guys Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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