SlickV8 Posted April 15 Report Share Posted April 15 Hi all. I’ve a MK3 Spitfire (EFi & 4 spd) and I’m putting a j type single rail OD gearbox in it. The OD ‘box doesn’t have a gear lever and I have absolutely no idea which or where to get one. Assuming I can just fashion a remote OD switch easy enough, can anyone tell me if a 4 spd or if not, which gear-lever I should look for that will fit? I haven’t actually tried my current 4 spd lever yet as planning to remove the original box this weekend so this may be a moot question but thought I’d ask now before I get stuck in thanks Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 15 Report Share Posted April 15 Single rail and 3 rail levers are not interchangeable. In both cases the OD version has a hole drilled length ways from the end with an exit hole a short distance down so the wiring can get to the knob switch. In all other respects OD and non OD are the same so if you want a remote switch the latter will work and is easier/cheaper to source like this 1500 Spitfire one on ebay... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted April 15 Report Share Posted April 15 21 minutes ago, johny said: Single rail and 3 rail levers are not interchangeable. In both cases the OD version has a hole drilled length ways from the end with an exit hole a short distance down so the wiring can get to the knob switch. In all other respects OD and non OD are the same so if you want a remote switch the latter will work and is easier/cheaper to source like this 1500 Spitfire one on ebay... As Johnny says, the gear levers aren't interchangeable. However, I believe the top cover, remote linkage and lever can be swapped over from the earlier box to the later one. Someone more experienced here may be able to confirm. You also need to consider the overall length of the gearbox and overdrive assembly with J-type installed. Will the propshaft need to be shortened, and will the mount under the overdrive need to be modified?? I fitted a Dolomite 1850 box with J-type OD to my GT6. It required the very rare shorter OD adapter plate from a late Spit Mk4, a shortened main shaft for the gearbox and a homemade custom mounting plate for the overdrive. You could avoid the rare Mk4 OD adapter and shortened main shaft by chopping the propshaft, cutting the transmission tunnel and making a new rear mount under the overdrive.... It's a can of worms. Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 15 Report Share Posted April 15 Yes a single rail OD box will be 4 inches longer than a 3 rail non OD so a Spitfire 1500 non OD 37 inch prop should be the right one... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlickV8 Posted April 15 Author Report Share Posted April 15 Great info, thanks. So this style lever wouldn’t work? I def need one with a ‘ball’ at the base rather than a flat base like this picture? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlickV8 Posted April 15 Author Report Share Posted April 15 Just now, SlickV8 said: Great info, thanks. So this style lever wouldn’t work? I def need one with a ‘ball’ at the base rather than a flat base like this picture? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 15 Report Share Posted April 15 Correct unless as Nigel suggested you change over the complete gear selector assembly - after all the internals of both gearbox types are essentially the same but it might complicate matters a bit... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlickV8 Posted April 15 Author Report Share Posted April 15 Ok. I’ve got the one off eBay. thanks for your swift replies gents, appreciated Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 15 Report Share Posted April 15 Great, let us know how you get on... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlickV8 Posted April 19 Author Report Share Posted April 19 Gear lever arrived & went in no problem. Thanks Next issue seems to be the 20 spline clutch plate I bought doesn’t fit on my flywheel 🤨 assume I maybe need a 1500 mk1V flywheel? Or can I get mine machined out, it’s lightened so I’d prefer to use it… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 19 Report Share Posted April 19 Reckon you need a plate for a Dolomite 1300 which came with the single rail box. This is GCP244 and 6.5" 20 spline... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlickV8 Posted May 12 Author Report Share Posted May 12 Quick update. I bought a marina clutch plate and it fitted perfectly. while I was there I’ve dropped the diff & changed all the outer seals Had a shortened propshaft made … in 2 hrs! (Thank you North West Propshafts, amazing service!) Ive rigged up the wiring and the solenoid clicks in and out in 3rd, 4th. Reversing lights work. I’ve run it raised up on my QuickJack’s and all seems great, tight and leak free. Just need tidy up the wiring and refit the interior then drive the wheels off it 😁. thank you all very much for your input 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted May 13 Report Share Posted May 13 Just make sure the solenoid doesn't click in and out when you're in reverse and sounds like you're good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 14 Report Share Posted May 14 On 12/05/2024 at 21:36, SlickV8 said: Quick update. I bought a marina clutch plate and it fitted perfectly. while I was there I’ve dropped the diff & changed all the outer seals Did you have to replace the bearings when changing the diff side seals or did they come off pretty easy so were reusable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted May 14 Report Share Posted May 14 35 minutes ago, johny said: Did you have to replace the bearings when changing the diff side seals or did they come off pretty easy so were reusable? Any time I've gone to the bother of removing them, I've replaced the bearings, although if replacing the seals it's always on diffs that have been well used so they're probably well worn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 14 Report Share Posted May 14 20 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: Any time I've gone to the bother of removing them, I've replaced the bearings, although if replacing the seals it's always on diffs that have been well used so they're probably well worn. Yes youre probably right Colin. Its just the diff is quiet running with its original bearings and the replacements might be those Korean things😲 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 14 Report Share Posted May 14 changing the output shaft brgs is you need a very thin drag, or a good vice and big hammer Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted May 16 Report Share Posted May 16 On 14/05/2024 at 18:06, johny said: Yes youre probably right Colin. Its just the diff is quiet running with its original bearings and the replacements might be those Korean things😲 Identify the bearings required from the code round the outside, then buy GOOD replacements - not necessarily from a Triumph supplier but a good bearing supplier. I got Timken bearings, and other good brands online by researching the code. (The photo is of a front bearing but you get the idea.) Be very careful when removing the old bearing from the halfshaft, it's easy to distort the mounting flange with too much pressure and it'll never seal against the diff body again. Amazing the amount of oil that can seep out of such a tiny crack. Been there, still trying to rectify it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 16 Report Share Posted May 16 Thanks Colin. Yes Im still surprised there isnt gaskets for those side flanges - would be so easy... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 16 Report Share Posted May 16 something like loctite 574 is the magic stuff for those type of applications Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted May 16 Report Share Posted May 16 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: something like loctite 574 is the magic stuff for those type of applications Pete It is if you remember it. I assumed (always a mistake) that the flanges wouldn't leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 16 Report Share Posted May 16 What were Triumph thinking of - a bit of paper would have made all the difference! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 17 Report Share Posted May 17 I know my experiments on production with leak solving was too many years ago but of all the types we tried this 574 stuff knocks the beans off any alternative , i still use it these days but its getting pricey and the cartridges purloined from the tracks shutting down has long run out it never goes hard till you exclude air so old stock is never wasted in an old tube etc. and if you like orange its a plus ha peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlickV8 Posted May 22 Author Report Share Posted May 22 I just changed seals. Got to say it drives sooo nice. Drive line feels tight, no slop anywhere and the OD is just brilliant; should’ve done it years ago! I love it (again😀) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlickV8 Posted May 22 Author Report Share Posted May 22 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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