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Removing propshaft UJ - Herald 13/60


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I am replacing the rear propshaft  UJ on my Herald 13/60 but I cannot get the old one out.

The circlips came out after a fight but the caps on the UJ are stuck solid in the yoke. I have been tapping away for over an hour with no movement at all! I left it soaking in penetrant overnight but still no joy.


Does anyone know any tips or tricks that might help?


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Don't tap, HIT it ! It may need to be hard, but it should come fairly easily if you use the method here:




I'm a fan of the original John Kipping method but Bill has great experience and this method will work fine.  I use a <edit> LARGE <edit/> wooden mallet, specifically kept for the purpose.  Getting the circlips out is normally the hard part.  



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you probably need a good strong Vice,  


insert a suitable sized socket into to yoke recess and a another big enought to allow the cup to enter on the opposite side


have 6 shreaded wheat and attack the vice with a vengeance and ,,,,,,,once they start to move press till enough of the cup protrudes to enable remove from vice , up end it to grip the protruding cup and give it a good grip, then waggle hammer the yoke off the cup


reverse the pressing to return the pressed cup back and out to protrude and then grip that and waggle it out.


when refitting it is most important the circlips are fully seated in a clean groove,  even when you know they can pop out we had exactly that last month


 you cannot be too careful    its  annoying and devastating if driven after the departure. 




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I've tracked down the JK method from a message board way back in 2003.  Been using it ever since. 



" UJ Removal – The JK patented method


The patented JK UJ removal method is the best thing since sliced bread:


Remove all circlips - if right handed hold the halfshaft in your left hand around the mid point, and hit the outside of the separate flange (copper hammer is best) so the downward pointing UJ cup is knocked out;


Turn the shaft through 180 degrees and again hit the outside edge of the flange to knock the other cup out (or at least they come out far enough to grab them in a vice).


After removing said flange this leaves two exposed sticky out bits of the UJ, these can be rested across vice jaws and the copper hammer can then be aimed at the yoke on the halfshaft so the upward pointing cup pops upwards, turn through 180 and a couple of taps with the hammer and the last cup pops up and the UJ is out.


With a bit of practice virtually any UJ can be removed in under a minute (once all the clips are out).  If a clip breaks or is very tight it is far easier to get at it by pushing the cup in very slightly once the opposing cup has been taken out.


John Kipping                       24/6/03


Old rusty UJs certainly need some whacking to get them out - if in doubt use a bigger hammer.


John Kipping                       26/6/03 "



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 dave,   good luck   have to say with  many old shafts a hammer is just not sufficient     


and on refitting a gentle push with aid of a vice ensures the cups are in square and not going to pitch as that can lead to a wrecked day, and broken cups and damaged yokes


have fun   it will all be easy or  a  thats not in the book struggle



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Thanks for all the advice. I have had mixed success.


I took Casper's advice and HIT it with a wooden mallet - using a socket to drive out one cup and then was able to remove the flange yoke to put it in the vice and try to remove the other cups using the method suggested by Pete. This is where it all went a bit wrong...

I had not had my 6 Shredded Wheat and could not exert enough force to push the cup out so I put a long steel tube over the vice handle for extra leverage - and broke the vice! :o



However this had exposed enough of the cup for me to grip it in another vice, and after much brute force and waggling it came out.

This is turning into the most expensive clutch change ever...


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I had the same problem removing the UJ, and also broke my vice. I finally took a dremel to the UJ and cut the problem flange off. With the UJ out of the way I was then able to remove the final piece with a sledge hammer, ever so gently. This resulted in no damage to the flange, and the new UJ went in OK.



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