navyguy Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 Just bought an 81 spit 1500 and am looking to overhaul the brakes front and back. Am asking how easy is it to do and how hard is it to bleed with the PDWA in the circuit? Any advice would be helpful. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 with most pdwa you should in my experience bleed both circuits together ,that keeps the pressures equal and the valve wont shuttle if the spool valve pops over you can manually reposition it with the switch removed if youre servicing the brake system then consider new seals in here as well as the other main cylinders. just changing pads is as easy as it looks, clean all areas and a smear of copper slip on back of pads and a touch on the edges that slid in the carrier the squeal shims are fitted with arrow in direction of rotation, if no arrow then the relieved section should face direction of rotation make sure the hub end float is set to 0.002" - 0.008" which is a light nut nip and back off 1 to 2 flats . there are two split pin holes to allow fine adjustment Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navyguy Posted October 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 Cheers pete. In fact I'm going to remove the whole of the braking system which includes all the wheel bearings if I'm correct? It all works at the moment but the fronts a bit woolly so I'm erring on the side of caution and for peace of mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 If worn much at all I would replace the disks too for what they cost. And if (big if) try finding asbestos shoes and pads, they are way better than the "white box" pads. Or fit mintex 1144 though 3-4x the price of the cardboard pads (but are similar in performance to asbestos pads) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navyguy Posted October 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 Cheers clive, if I uprate the pads is it worth uprating discs to drilled? Or is the performance not worth the cost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 No advantage in drilled...... Really, std discs, decent pads and the difference is remarkable compared to worn discs, cheap pads and unloved brakes in general. I trust you will strip the rear brakes, clean up the backplates, grease sliders, new cylinders and so on? read up on setting th erear brakes up too. Spitfire brakes are actually very good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navyguy Posted October 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 Yea, everything is going to be new. Will I have to change the bearings as well?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 Check them carefully for wear, any scuffing or pitting will mean new ones. Avoid "unbranded" ones, there is again some real tat around. I think the main suppliers have timkin or similar (SKF, RHP etc) and well worth the small extra outlay if needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 18, 2014 Report Share Posted October 18, 2014 come on your club shop sells wheel bearing of quality. if you cant find them just use the shop search box .. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navyguy Posted October 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2014 I'll be popping up to the club next week so I'll quiz the staff and get what I need for the brakes and hubs. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Crewes Posted October 19, 2014 Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 Re bleeding. You do not have to bleed both circuits together. Even if you did, you would not be able to bleed the same amount of fluid out of each circuit to keep the PDWA shuttle in the centre. Have a look in the workshop manual, there is a procedure for doing it (which wheel first, etc.) which will recentralise the PDWA shuttle at the end. The procedure works, I've done it and it's not difficult! Regards Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navyguy Posted October 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 Cheers mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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