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Gaskets plus goo or not


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Hi All, when my Vitesse gearbox comes back from Mike Papworth after it's rebuild I will need to bolt the clutch housing to it. Not forgetting the copper washer on the lower bolt what do members think about gaskets for this?

I do have the correct paper one but for a belt and braces fix, I wonder if I should also coat the mating surfaces with blue Hylomar, an old favourite. It would seem that some people also use a silicone sealant instead of paper gaskets, what are the words of wisdom from experienced members?  Thanks. Pat

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Back in the 80s we did many trials of gasket hard joint face oil leaks we dumped all paper gaskets and used loctite 574 a hard setting when air is excluded instant gasket which worked far and above any other

product in its day, I still use it today at home


it solved many oil seapage or problem leaks on trucks


still available and much more choice with more types now




if the gearbox is off check the thichness of the withdrawl bearing if its only 15mm thick you need

to add a washer or two under the sperical post, or the angle of the arm is ,'late' and you loose

travel and the pins are then set below the centre line


the orig bearings were 19mm thick

if there are wear grooves in the throwout carrier remove the anti rotation pin set it somewhere else




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Thanks Pete and GT6M, looks like it will be the locktite goo or high temp. Silicon.  Thanks Pete I will also check the diameter of the withdraw bearing and do as you say if it is worn. Someone had put the clutch operating rod in the wrong way round consequently the domed recess in the operating arm was cracked. Tried out my new mig welder on the back of it and it's fixed now. I wonder how long the car had been driven like that to crack the housing. I wonder how many more are driving around like that!

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Thats not unusual theres a gremilin that always reverses the obvious Ha


yes there a good few wrong way round


its not the diameter its the depth , thickness of the new bearing thats been on a diet.


the front cover and sperical post are a easy tap fit in the ally hsg,


the pin in the carrier stops the rotation making wear grooves in the front cover

some have a dimple in the peg slot saves the cover but the pegs wear the carrier groove, slot

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Locktite 2922 works well even with hot oil or hot coolant. Available at Halfords I believe.


As an aside, having bought two new Triumphs in the past there were both oil tight. It was only after some work had been carried out that leaks appeared. I have often wondered if the factory used sealer.



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Thanks for the info ref the spherical post Pete. Just measured mine and it was 14.5mm, so looks like I need to put 4mm worth of washers under it. Just to check Pete, before I get the persuader out, it is a press in fitting into the alloy Clutch housing and can be tapped out? Thanks. Pat

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If the hsg is off the gearbox the post hole goes right thro, so you can tap it out from the back face


4mm is too much you can loose support of the post two washers is about max.


it puts the see saw of the lever more central a thin brg makes the lever attitude late

and extends the slave a extra bit


bit of packing brings things near to central


if the lever is late then the pegs in the throw out sit below the cover/shaft centre line and this pitches the



spent years working on warranty due to clutch geometry and recon covers .

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If the new post is the same length as the old one it wont correct the missing mm


do check ive seen new ones with awfull finish to the ball end


making a longer push rod wont help either its the thin bearing makes the withdrawl lever

like a see saw down at one end , it needs to be more balanced moving the pivot outwards a little

helps to correct the angle of dangle !

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