GT6M

thats the main shaft ring, that ods 3 rd gear in spot Most likely been owa expanded if re used or a dodgy after market ,n

Wimm, try the 80/140 stuff, get it 2.5 litre cans will be fine for the GB an Diff esp the Penrite pro gear oil, fully synt, dus,nt go off at high temps like the comma and others do most of em, commas is a real PITB it go,s black, an ends up like thin pish efter 200 or so miles M

for rot cars, i got a decent set of avo adjustables if yer intrested also got a set of spaxs too, adjustables note, both will require lowest settings, this is about standard setting on a non adjust type

mek yer own, will cost aboot 5-10£ in bits IF ye can weld ss that is,

the Lysegic distilate acid diffs still suffer the same problemo as normal diffs doo they still use the same CW/P the blackline ones are aif price of the normal suppliers

New shims are available, CW sells em, BUTT mostly for TR/Sals type they 2-4 times as thick as the GT/Spitty types butt, worn oot TR shims, are a good fit but, need a good few, as they not all same size whenst worn like the yans on oor cars, always 1 will wear oor faster than the other, some times there npwt thea, esp if its a fibre type niva iva use thee,s for any re builb, they be gone prity quick and the shims aint got be a slack fit, regardless of what the book says the bearing cups aint smoothe, its ridged, so shim sits on high bit efta a wee while its bedded in, an as slack as a laydee of the nights money box, they need tapped into spot and t,mek em last a bit, drill 4 wee wols in em t,get moer oil into em think rimmers an the other spots sell em failing that, get yer self some PB sheet an mek yer own ye got the moulds on the diff yer use,n all thats needed is a bigg bolt an a nut put shim between carrier an gear, an tighten up best if its heated first, as it,ll mek it easier t,bend. med loads this way, so simples Keep saying it, but dont change yer oil yer ask,n for trouble should be changed at least yance a year, ep if yer no use,n it, or it,ll end up like thee,s pics M

new t,this thread, an ne body else has mentioned it, but how ye gonna stop the dredded oil delay, wid the remote filter set up, which will be worse than OE set up, been there, tried it, took it off. ye sure it,ll have ne oil delay !!!

be ware of re building, or getting olde diffs re built can have the best possible contact patterns, drive an coast, an it,ll whine or howl can ev a contact pattern miles off on drive, but ok on coast an its fine coast generally dont get much stik, only in over run or reverse generally if the bearing pree loads, sides an pin ones, are slack then it,ll whine wid load,or on overun,or both as load will shift the contact areas, moer so if diff worn. a 1 thou shim on a criticly worn cw will move pattern alot in some instances Butt, if it whines on drive an goes quiet under load, then it needs either pin ajusted, or cw adjusted, or both. as movement has shifted contact to a quieter spot. Non of which can really be determined with any certainty untill its in car. even when try,n t,run a diff under load on yer bench, ye just cannae get the loadings that happen on the road. patterns are a guide only on olde units { some new,ns too ive found }, real life shows ye this. So just cos its noisey, dont mean folk aint tried their best Ive spent 30+ odd hours on some, a thou here, or there, , diff hights, diff side gaps all to ne good at all and cw/p look ok, but they worn oot, so best for banger race,n or a weigh in. some diffs, are v v quiet wid a 20+ play in mesh { OE 3-4 thou } but they clonk on tek up an over run Ive had brand new CW/Ps sent t,me t,re build, and just cannot get a same pattern on all teeth some are near bottom, some are near middle,some are near top, same too for the coast an CW runs true, so ne run oot, what ye doo wid them , send em back, get another, its same, spend another full week at it, still noisey, show folk the contact patterns, all owa the spot { t,get a different in pin height, then its a full diff strip doon, t,get a side thrust, a little easier, just tek the CW oot, but then ye gotta split the bearings, on a tr type, its a pain } also, what looks good wid nee load, is not same as with load an cant say for certain that a 2 shim will be ok to put it where it should be as on the other ye just did, cos in reality it wont show same contack patch due to wear on both cw/p that really cant be seen wid yer eyes. some can be done in 1/2 hour, and they look fooked some look good and are impossible t,get right so dont always blame the bloke trying his best if he,s spent a full week onit, for little money as would any body on here work 30+hours , stink,n of oil, dutty finger nails an hands for a week on a diff for 40-80£ wage, I spend it, as its a hobby M

If box rebuilt wid grease instead of SLD stuff then grease stops oil get,n t,bearings had a few wid shafts worn, an grease residue inside oft laygear this lot could be worth a punt,!! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Gearbox-Joblot/283771923218?hash=item42121feb12:g:53wAAOSwkcleOYJE

I had actually considered this a long time ago, but , it be fitted t,the diff end, as I ed, still ev a remote Landrover unit, which fits in the drive line but it would require the modding of the rear chassis bit a wee bit for clearances across ways an a modded hump int rear deck bit after the seats but its deffo doo a ble this way reason I was think,n of it wer, it was perfectly possible t,pull 30mph x 1000 rpms wid a 2.5 up front as could pintle aboot at 1000 rpms in OD top, an still accel away as fast as a standard GT would in 4th but for a 4 cyl, or a 2 litre, esp a tuned ,n where torques curves alot higher, its a no go I think, yer into 2.5+ engines only

thee,s kits a pent on stuff,or a stick on reason asking is if a stick on, wid 1.5 mm strips, like the older type heated window kits then whenst ye got a doz or so lines ont window it,ll be pulling 25 - 30 amps, which is a darn sight moer than OE, or what the switch or the wires will tek, been there found oot, need bigger wires and a relay t,tek load oft switch

no no if this is any use, but I ed VS problemos for a while Yer olde,n can be adjusted, thats wot the other thingy is on top, an adjuster ev a read thru here, took frae another post else where some good valid bits, mine never runs or ran hot till aboot 5 months ago Also, noticed me oil temps ed increasd a wee bit too, reading 1/2 way at normal speeds, generally on aboot a 1/4 an a good blast it wer reading 3/4, not the 1/2 it usually is. By hot, im on aboot the temp gauge, it wer reading higher an higher as times went on, till it was reading 3/4 where it shud,v read middle at normal speeds, regardless of oot side tempps put me infra red sensor ont biits oft system, all showing its aboot normal water temps coming oot the block into rad for the stat I got in, an 88deg so decided t,look at the ECUs read oot for the temps it wer showing a swing frae 78-92 degs, note, ye wont see this sort,v swing on yer gauges, as they damped by the VS unit { even shut,n heater off for a wee while, then open it up agen will show a drop of aboot 10 degs right away for a few secs ,as the ECU readoot can be so fast.} So gauge faulty or senders seemed strange byath senders would go at same time. so fitted gauge wires onto oil temp an oil temp onto water temp an same results, so no sender an no the gauges only other thingy was the VS, bunged a probe on oot puts an it wer 11-11,5 constant volts so bunged on a spare VS, an things went back t,normal temps,or moer correctly, normal positionee,s on gauges decided t,tinkerate wid the VS an opend it up could,nt figure wot the flat ended bit of metal was ont ootside of unit untill I got it opened this bit of flat metal is actually a screw adjuster, an it operates onto the moving coil wire in side so if coil wires loos,n or gaining resistance owa the years of use, then the VS will no work same as it should de So, dont always say me engines run,n hot {unless its actually boil,n owa that is } untill yee,v actually checked on other things that its run,n hot, All thee,s yers, and never ed t,check the VS and did,nt even no that some ev a adjust bit, as in the pic Ohh, an me cars got a electric fan, infront oft rad rads fully enclosed top,bot,sides, so owt that comes thru grill opening, goes thru rad. Unlike most cars that ev v v little shrouding any where so most oft air hit,n rad, goes aroond the sides, an no thru rad. thats why most overheat at speeds, esp if yee,v got alot of bent rad cool,n fins, or lots of deed wee beasties clogg,n up the fins that stop air flow thru rad. https://www.minimania.com/images/SmithsVoltage-03.gif https://www.minimania.com/Smiths_Voltage_Stabilizers

70,s blurb for In car entertainment

I no ye found it, butt, !! i tek it that its the correct fuse, 17 cont, 35 blow. some fuses just say 17, an folk tek it that they 17 cont, but they not they mebe 8-10 blow been caught oot wid this a few times,!!! M

another helper is a tapered chisel, a long,n this goes thru the VLs holes an can be at quite an angle whenst first put in but cos its tapered, it can be pulled aboot, so holes int VL line up wid spring another tweek I use is t,put a point ont bolt going in this way it,ll feed in easier if slightly off