seeny67 Posted February 18, 2017 Report Share Posted February 18, 2017 Hi, Guys & Gals. A quick question, if I may. I have a 1971 TR6 with factory fitted 'A Type' overdrive. Suddenly, the o/d has stopped working. The switch seems OK - and is relatively new. The previous (possibly original) one failed a couple of years back. It became "floppy" to the touch. I replaced it, and all was well again. Diagnosis so far. Putting the ignition on, with the car in fourth, and flicking the switch in/out, there is a distinct "click" - but I'm pretty sure this is coming from the relay (nearside under the bonnet, near the bulkhead). Testing this relay, I get as near as makes no difference to 12v from port C2 (central, with yellow/purple wire) when the o/d is switched on - and zero when it's off. I suspect a failed (or disconnected) solenoid . Before I make too big a job of it, how do I access the solenoid, please? From inside the car? Grateful for any advice. Graham. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 18, 2017 Report Share Posted February 18, 2017 the energising solenoid is mounted low down on the N/s of the unit ,, on the O/S is a protruding shaft witha setting lever attached, there is a 3/16" hole in the lever which when engaged should align with a hole in the oute case. you may just see this from under if not its tunnel off. first check does it move when the switch is operated if it moves but wont align remove the cover in front of the solenoid and adjust the lever throw pushrod. ( there are some dimensional settings for the pushrod and solenoid piston end float and its end stop settings ) if it doesnt move expect a electrical problem in the feed or a duff solenoid as with Dtypes there is a switch in the end of the A type solenoid which cuts a pull in coil current of15 amps down to a holding current of 1 amp some of these switches can be access cleaned etc some are fully sealed and you cant do much with them. thats a start Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seeny67 Posted February 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2017 Many Thanks, Pete - very much appreciated. Looks like that's my Sunday sorted, then! Cheers, Graham. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWT338J Posted February 19, 2017 Report Share Posted February 19, 2017 Graham The majority of overdrive problems are electrical. The other thing to check is the oil level in the gearbox. If both of these are ok then there is a more serious prob. The US Buckeye Triumph website has some great advice on more serious overdrive work. If you decide against this then I can recommend Overdrive Repair Services just outside Sheffield. Again they have a good website. David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 19, 2017 Report Share Posted February 19, 2017 yes the OD oil level is all integrated with the gearbox so only one level filler ...the one for the gearbox the overdrive is engaged by oil pumped at pressure so any low oil level in the gearbox will adversely affect the overdrive operation once the level is below the pump pick up . and the inhibitor switch can get full of green corrosion ,thye can with care be stripped cleaned and re crimped together most are a lucas SA141 type which is a simple bell push design . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seeny67 Posted February 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 Many Thanks, Pete and David. Sorry for the delay in responding, I'm afraid I got sidetracked with other issues. Thanks for all the advice. The fault is definitely with the o/d solenoid, and after "doing battle" with some overly tight bolts, I'm delighted to let you know that I've got the tunnel off, accessed and removed the solenoid, and am now awaiting delivery of a replacement (due tomorrow, Tuesday). Only snag is I'm having "hell's delight" in trying to get the oil filler plug out (and yes, my fault - haven't done that regularly enough over the years!). Hopefully I'll get there in the end, though - should be a darned sight easier to check / refill [as necessary) with oil from the top now the tunnel's out, than from below. Cheers, Graham. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 27, 2017 Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 depends what square is on it but one trick is fit a socket back to front so sq is on the plug , use one the ratchet will fit in the AF Bi hex and a breaker bar with 3 shreaded wheat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted February 27, 2017 Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 And replace it once its out with a magnetic sump drain plug. Two reasons easier to shift the next time and the added benefit of the collection of any suspended metallic items Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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