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Try this https://www.3m.co.uk/3M/en_GB/p/d/v000087610/ David

I'd be looking to the US of A for a LHD model. More than 50% TR6's went that way after birth. If you can get one from the West Coast it will not have seen salt and probably little rain. The only prob is it will have twin carbs rather than PI but converting the engine to PI is relatively straightforward if that is what you want. David

I think I got mine from Holland. Try this link http://www.triumphspitfire.nl/rearspringpads.html David

The GT6 radiator has two inlet pipes to assist with purging air, I think. That's also one reason why the heaters never work well (although lack of cabin heat is not often an issue in the GT6). Another factor to consider is the water pump, particularly at slow engine speeds. The radiator can only dissipate heat from the water that is flowing through it. David

If you want the job doing properly contact Ian Gittings (email sponmon64@gmail.com). He advertises on e-bay (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-GT6-VITESSE-6-CYLINDER-INLET-MANIFOLD-REFURBISHMENT-INC-BANJO-BOLT-ETC/264756318586?hash=item3da4b4d17a:g:DrMAAOSwrk5e3OT5). Also through the US Triumph Experience forum. He is based in the Midlands. Ian bores out the corroded water pipe and replaces with a stainless steel pipe + new stainless connectors on each end. No connection, just a satisfied customer. David

Thanks everyone for the helpful comments. I'll try these tricks and report back. David

Wise Men Can you advise me on how to 'adjust' self-adjusting rear brakes on my late mkIII GT6? Adjusting the handbrake to be specific. The brake pedal seems to work fine but the handbrake is virtually useless. I've tried taking up slack in the cable on each side with negligible benefit. The handbrake lever travel seems excessive but the resulting braking force is woeful. I've tried searching for this but not found anything yet. Thanks David

Dear Adrian A few more photographs and a tracing of the left hand bracket. The bracket is bent out of a single piece of steel. The crease, as you realise, follows the tip of the trim panel. T'other Adrian is correct that the seat back is canted back of vertical. The crease lies roughly horizontal but the flat front face is 30 or so degrees behind vertical. Consequently the crease is not at 90 degrees to the front face. I'm enclosing a copy of the factory instructions and also some notes that Carl Heinlein, then GT6 registrar, kindly sent me in 1994 when I fitted a NOS seat kit I purchased from the long extinct John Hills. I don't want to dampen your enthusiasm but you will be disappointed when you get the seat fitted......... David GT6 rear seat fitting instructions.pdf GT6 rear seat fitting instructions 2.pdf

Adrian I'm enclosing some pictures. The long axis is 3.5" and the two short axes are 1" at max width. I reckon they're made from 14 gauge steel. There is also a rest for the seat when folded forwards. This is covered in vinvyl to match the trim (or dust in my case) and follows the contour of the front of the wheelarch. The rear seat in the GT6 is completely useless but I guess you already know that? David

Chapman & Cliff did a great job on a TR6 dash for me a few years ago David

Agree with Doug. The foam side panels of my seats had crumbled over the years. I replaced the foam from the back and the squab and things are much better. http://www.parklaneclassics.co.uk/Triumph_GT6_Mk3_home_page.htm Not a difficult job David

Amphletize Try googling TR6 soft top replacement. The technique is pretty much the same. Moss used to offer a fitting service. Make sure you fit the vinyl to the frame when it is warm (ideally hot) otherwise it will be full of wrinkles. David

Graham The majority of overdrive problems are electrical. The other thing to check is the oil level in the gearbox. If both of these are ok then there is a more serious prob. The US Buckeye Triumph website has some great advice on more serious overdrive work. If you decide against this then I can recommend Overdrive Repair Services just outside Sheffield. Again they have a good website. David

Have you tried this stuff? This transformed a very opaque yellow rear window in my soft top. David Renovo Plastic Window Polish http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RX1532?gclid=CJqAlL_T-9ACFVYo0wodfvwMdA

Bulldog paper clips, lots of them. Do it in stages + heat/steam. David

You might be interested in this thread http://www.triumphexp.com/phorum/read.php?8,1376021 David

I'm pretty sure these are just bits of vinyl in the same colour as the rest of the car. Mine were glued to the bodywork in a rather ham fisted way. I remooved them when I did the bodywork and left them off because this area is painted body colour anyway. David

Worth also noting that the rotor arm will be pointing to no 1 plug lead when TDC on firing stroke. It's not too difficult to get the distributor 180 degrees out which means the engine wont start. David