Waynebaby Posted February 18, 2018 Report Share Posted February 18, 2018 Hi All, I'm psyching myself up to refit the gearbox to my GT6 tomorrow and I think I'm ready: Dowels for the back of the block - check Sticking plasters - check Hernia support - check Supply of extra strong tea bags - check The only doubt I have is about what to do with the prop-shaft. Presently it is off the car and I was intending to fit this after the gearbox is in (I figure it'll give me more clearance at the back of the box) Can anybody think of a reason why this sequence will cause me problems? I'd hate to heave the box back on, only to find it needs to come off again to fit the prop-shaft. I can't think why this might be the case, but wiser minds than mine may know differently. Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 18, 2018 Report Share Posted February 18, 2018 Yes you can feed the prop in from the rear end . Tip to aid alignment , get a it of timber about 25mm thick , use this in the gap between back plate and clutch hsg. Just for a visual gap gauge to judge its || not |\ or \| as eyeing it up is often deceiving, get it square and on she pops I take it a few inches of tunnel have been removed to gain access to the prop coupling?? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waynebaby Posted February 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2018 Hi Pete, Thanks for confirming what I thought. re the tunnel: The metal of the tunnel is the standard o/d set up. So I’ll need to lift the engine high to clear this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 18, 2018 Report Share Posted February 18, 2018 Hello Wayne. Tomorrow, you and I both - my advantage is a couple of the local area meeting chaps are popping over to assist; how happy am I !! One word of caution, other than take care, is do not under any circumstances let the transmission rest on the input shaft - if you do you will have a MAJOR problem by doing so. Good luck. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haggis Posted February 18, 2018 Report Share Posted February 18, 2018 Hi Wayne, just a little reminder about the washer behind the clutch Clevis pin, I didn’t do it and have to continually keep my foot lightly on the clutch pedal, wish someone had reminded me. It’s to do with the new thrust bearings being slightly smaller than original. Good luck with the fit tomorrow. Hag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 18, 2018 Report Share Posted February 18, 2018 Its under the spherical post ,!!! if the throwout is 19mm thick its correct if its at 15mm thick you need to pack the post away from the gearbox to correctly align the lever Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waynebaby Posted February 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2018 Cheers Hag, I’ve checked my release bearing dimensions and I shouldn’t need the washer modification. Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 18, 2018 Report Share Posted February 18, 2018 Dont forget to fit a washer between the angle drive and the speedo pinion housing or the angle drive will fail early 7/16" will fit metal or fibre , stops pre load on the angle drive input drive Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waynebaby Posted February 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2018 Hi All, Well the 'box is back in and so I thought I'd share a few learning points: Firstly, it isn't too hard doing it on your own. In fact there's so little room in the GT6 that I think another body in there might make things more difficult. The hardest bit is getting the bell housing under the heater box/air hoses. Once you get the 'box ~horizontal it will get easier (honest) Put the 'box into first gear and then remove the extension cover and the top cover of the 'box. This'll give you more room under the dash for the initial "gearbox at 30 degree action" whilst you try to fit the bell housing under the heater box (put it into first gear or you can't lift the cover off) Follow Uncle Pete's advice and use two threaded rods in the outermost holes in the block to hang the gearbox off (I found 4" lengths were ideal) This allows you to furtle with the 'box without fretting about what the weight of the 'box might be doing to your nice new clutch. Remove the hand-brake lever. This gives more room at the start of the process and allows you to sit on the tunnel and use your feet against the bell housing in the later stages. Most importantly, enjoy the "shtumph" when the input shaft finally slides into place. With any luck you won't have to hear it again for a while. Wayne 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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