Guest Posted September 23, 2019 Report Share Posted September 23, 2019 Hello, Just in the process of some door maintenance - driver and pax. Usual jobs, getting rid of rattling glass and general tightening up of the connections - these alone make a huge difference. I would be interested to know if anyone with a Herald or Vitesse has used anything between the door body and the interior panel. Looking at the diagrams and parts catalogue, it looks as though nothing was used; unlike some classics that often use a plastic sheet or similar as a layer of added weather protection. Additionally if anyone has other door advice / tips, I will be grateful to hear of them. Thanks in advance. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 23, 2019 Report Share Posted September 23, 2019 there should be a shower curtain ( poly sht) trapped in the lower channel goes up down with the glass to keep rain off the door card https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-herald-13/60-door-assembly item 34 , ie any poly sht. there is available water proof paper self adhesive sheet to line the door carcass aperture not searched where from but used in many dealers if door repairs wreck the OE closing membrane etc. better than gaffer tape and such like Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 23, 2019 Report Share Posted September 23, 2019 Many thanks Pete. Just ordered new rubber door waist strips from CC and they said the weatherproof stuff /curtains is no longer made. In addition the Herald and Vitesse did not have a full door covering of any sort, although that will be easy enough to construct and fit once I have found the right material. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 23, 2019 Report Share Posted September 23, 2019 1 hour ago, classiclife said: I would be interested to know if anyone with a Herald or Vitesse has used anything between the door body and the interior panel. I'm intending to. I replaced the door curtains on both my Heralds with heavy sheets of nylon-type plastic set into the glass support when I replaced the rubber on those (inner tube rubber is excellent stuff for that) but for the door aperture itself I'll be using a heavy sheet of the same stuff sealed all the way round with flexible mastic; the aim being to allow as little moisture as possible to enter the car or damage the door cards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 23, 2019 Report Share Posted September 23, 2019 Hello Colin, I'm currently considering DPM plastic sheeting, to cover the whole door, which I think will do the job - just need to experiment with fitting and suitability. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 23, 2019 Report Share Posted September 23, 2019 the shower curtain sheet is just a sheet pf poly . needs to be simple and flexible as it has to crumple up as the glass drops bit off a bin black bag would do its only a splash shield to deflect water from the glass aperture getting onto the door card Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 Job done on pax door. I did not go with the attached shower curtain as I'm doubtful as to how effective it would be. The door is treated internally with drain holes in the bottom. Moving on from that, I decided to go for a moisture barrier between the door and the internal panel. For this I used a piece of DPM and cut to shape using the door card as a template and also marked where the window winder + door latch is located and made a hole for each but not too big. On cutting I gave an extra margin to the DPM to allow for any irregularities with the door shape. With that done, I then used clear bathroom waterproof sealant around the door using the trim securing holes as a dot-to-dot route - not only does this ensure that there is a proper moisture seal but also makes it very easy for the DPM to remain in situ before affixing the door card. Now that the DPM is held in situ I poked a small hole in the material so that each of the panel securing clips would fit easily without distorting the DPM. The door card had been poorly fitted previously and has caused a couple of securing clip marks at the bottom - hopefully these will disappear in time. It's worth getting extra securing clips for the door panel, I got mine from Woolies. With all the clips in situ, approx. 16, the panel then clipped to the door with ease. Final job was to refit the window winder, door lever and the upper trim. I did have a senior moment as I tried to fit the handles with the springs the wrong side of the panel and then asking myself why it was not fitting properly 🙈 Final job is to then trim any excess DPM showing. The tightening of the window mechanism bolts and also securing the quarter light has made Avast improvement along with lubricating everything. Fitting a moisture barrier is prudent and straight forward. I did fit new rubber door waist seals, a bugger to refit but have to say was not overly impressed with the quality of the 2x strips I got from CC. In contacting they assured me they are the best about and better than the originals.....................mmmmm. All I would say, is if your waist seals are currently in good order leave them be !! Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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