AidanT Posted August 9, 2015 Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 Hi All I'm about to convert over to an alternator I am quite happy with the wiring that needs to be done but wondered if anyone has used the old control box as a suitable connection box so in other words taking out the old internals and rewiring the terminals from inside the box. I am hoping this would then keep everything tidy and insulated. - Has anyone tried this? and if you have - Could you post a picture of the inside of the box? I will be adding another cable to take care of the addional amperage from the alternator Thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted August 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 On looking again how do you get in to it ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 9, 2015 Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 Hello Aidan. I did a few articles for my local classic car club concerning this very question. I have attached 3x docs which may be of assistance. The original requirement was from a chap who owned a MG Midget, so 1x of the docs I compiled is biased towards that car. Not withstanding that the theory and practicality is identical. Regards. Richard. HOW TO MODIFY THE RB340.doc DYNAMO to ALT - Wiring diagram.doc DYNAMO TO ALTERNATOR CONV.doc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted August 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 Thanks Richard - That doesn't look too complex at all. Just three questions The front of the box does not seem to be held to the back plate with something that can be undone - Is it best to "Drill" these out or do they come undone from the back? In regard to the internal "Bobbins", whats the best way to remove them? Just cut them out or do the three nuts shown on picture 5 hold them in and they just need undoing to remove the bobbins? Also is it best to keep the plate earthed on terminal E? Thx Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 9, 2015 Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 Its also imprtant to upgrade the charge wire section to cope with much more than the dynamo why keep the box just add a decent wire alt. to the starter solenoid terminal join the 2 coloured wire 17 amp lucars on the box together and dump the earth then discard the old 30amp wires to the alt. gives a good short and reliable cable run pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve C Posted August 9, 2015 Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 On mine I stripped out the internals from the redundant control box, and used a length of the thick copper wire in the coils to link three of the terminals together as a junction box for live feeds. The empty coil casing now houses the overdrive relay. Regards Steve C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 Front of the box should remove easily; I did this on my MK1 many years ago. The empty box is handy for spare keys or bulbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted August 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 Hi again OK Box off Internals removed - Decided to work on the original Box rather than purchase new so no going back now!! Anyway, Richard if you are on-line at some point or any one else really - Just a little confused although this may come under the statement of "In principle" but I just want to triple check The pictures on and two are what I have at the moment The first you can see the front if the box - the second the back where I have labeled the terminals with the lettering My confusion is if you look at the picture from Richards instruction The wiring joint to me looks to be going from B to F ???? Hence my confusion I thought it was F to WL and B to D ? Is it me? Am I going bananas ??? Thx Pete - apart from the good ideas above for keeping it - My main reason is so all the cable terminals can be left as is Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted August 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 Hi again Another quick Q for those GT6 guys who have done the Alternator conversion - IS this the correct top bracket? seems to foul my thermostat housing pls the alternator seems to be really close to the block! Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 Keep the bananas in reality you co join all 3 of 30 amp blade wires together and join two 17amp bladed wires together then delete the black earth peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pageste Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 Just completed the "conversion" after my dynamo bit the dust in spectacular fashion. I used the regulator box just to keep it looking neat. I drilled out the contacts and mounted them using small bolts, carefuly insulated from each other. I got concerned over the 34Amp Alternator output versus the 25AMp dynamo output so rightly or wrongly I fused the new connections and also ran an additional wire direct from the alternator to the Battery side of the solenoid. Seems to work OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 Hello Aidan. Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. You are not going banana's !! I have just checked the photo against another and you are correct - the solder link in the photo IS WRONG. The link MUST go from "B" to "D" and a separate connection from "F" to "WL". Apologies. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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