Fitting wire wheel adapters

[A TR7 16V]

I've got the wheels and hub adapters to fit wire wheels to the Herald (13/60), but I have a bit of a problem.

That is that there isn't enough space between the 11/16th AF taper face 3/8ths UNF wheel nuts and the adapters to  get even my thin wall socket in (I wouldn't be able to get a thin wall socket on 17mm AF nuts either - I've tried). That means I can't torque the nut up correctly and will have to do it by feel with an open ended spanner. I guess I can torque something up right and then get the feel of that with the spanner, but I'd rather do it more nearly right.

I've been wondering about this issue a bit, and wonder if there's going to be space to fit a 3/8ths UNF thin nut, which will be 9/16ths AF, as a lock nut. That I can get a socket and thus the torque wrench on. My thinking is that, if it will take a lock nut, I can nip up the taper face nut tight enough there's no play with a spanner, then hold the main nut and torque the lock nut up to that after. But then, what factor would I need to apply to the torque setting on the lock nut?

This might also have the advantage that fitting the front adapters won't need the wife sat on the brake to hold the hubs still when I put them on and take them off. That because I'll be turning two nuts against one another, not one against the hub/brake.

Graham

[Pete Lewis]

you have just got involved with the untold joys of wire wheels and adaptors 

sorry no easy fix  its an open ended or you get the adaptors machined to give  socket clearance  if theres enough meat to open out 

whilst they can look nice they dont go round corners like a solid wheel and can be a whole sunday morning to clean them  

so  yes  theres no easy answer    well...sell them on   is the easiest but thats not what you want 

have fun   

Pete

 

[A TR7 16V]

41 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

you have just got involved with the untold joys of wire wheels and adaptors 

Pete

 

Oh not "just". These are the second set of wires, and the best that India produce this time - nearly stainless steel in parts. But what is this verb "to clean"? I know it not.

The first set seamed ok for prodding. But it turned out it was the rust holding the spokes tight. So after only a few turns, they got wonderfully flexible on corners and on setting off.

They were put on with an open ender. And I worried about that. But I don't think it was any part of their problems. It's taking the car on the Motorway for the thick end of a thousand miles round trip to Cornwall and back that I worry about - not that it looks like this year's trip is on either.

But the Herald don't get chucked round bends much - got the Doly Sprint, and hopefully soon, the TR7 Sprint, for that. I did take it by the backways over Wyre from St Annes to Lancaster last year - on the 5.5" Spitfire wheels - and it did well. Hardly touched the overdrive. But I don't get the confidence in the corners that the Doly gives and I remember of the several TR7 Sprints I've had (two of them proper ones).

It does seem a bit better since I went from type 12 to type 14 callipers on the front. But it still needs planning and foresight as important components of braking. I have a remote servo for it, but I haven't really felt the need to solve the issues in fitting that.

Graham

[Pete Lewis]

i wonder if you could grind a section out of a socket to get access and have enough hex left to turn a little at a time ???

it is a wonderful design ...Hmmm !!

have you tried some mintex 1144 before you indulge with a servo idea , I upped the 12s on my Vit6 to type 16s  as stopping wasnt in its mojo

and never anything with green in it..........  complete cardboard 

Pete

[Paul H]

10 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

i wonder if you could grind a section out of a socket to get access and have enough hex left to turn a little at a time ???

it is a wonderful design ...Hmmm !!

have you tried some mintex 1144 before you indulge with a servo idea , I upped the 12s on my Vit6 to type 16s  as stopping wasnt in its mojo

and never anything with green in it..........  complete cardboard 

Pete

Just moved onto Mintex 1144 on my Vitesse . What a difference they make . The old pads were cheapies and now consigned to the bin . The Mintex are comparatively expensive but worth every penny 

Paul 

[A TR7 16V]

I probably slagged the Herald's brakes off more than they deserved. I am well used to older car bakes, like the Doly, which split shifts as daily drive with the Herald, where it's necessary to press a bit to get a result. And I can still get the Sprint to lock the front wheels on a clean dry surface, even though I'm currently running a smaller (1850 or 1500) servo. It takes some effort, and usually some expletive, but I'm used to that. I don't think the herald get there quite, but I equally don't think it needs to.

The real down side is I do tend to get the ABS to work when I drive the wife's car.

I suppose there's also a heath and safety issue, in that if either car gets nicked by some 12 year old, they could hurt themselves cos they can't work the brakes. 

As to the socket, I'm investigating if I can use a box spanner, thinned only slightly and the right sized socket on the other end. Also. I have an 11/16ths crows foot, but I need to re-calibrate the torque wrench for that. 

But I'm coming to like the idea of a thin lock nut, not least cos I can tighten and slacken them without involving the brakes or some lock bar between hub and ground.

Graham