UJ Inserts

[Wagger]

Hi again guys.

I took the RH driveshaft off lightening the load by using my new hub puller. Locked the diff flange with a strategically placed flat ring spanner and tightened the puller using my old fashioned spring arm torque wrench. Wound it to 60lb ft, struck the centre bolt with a club hammer, then tightened to 70lb ft and off it popped. That all worked fine, as did removing the needle roller inserts in my vice.

However, I measured the o/d of the inserts and discovered that the new ones were 0.002in smaller in diameter. OK they slid in nicely but the circlip groove in the diff fange was 0.5 mm buried so that the circlip would not engage. I checked for a roller going astray several times, but that had not happened.

In the end I discovered that the old circlips were thinner, so I refitted using those. It was still very marginal to the point that I do not trust it. I had to tighten the vice severely to force it all into postion. Nasty cracking sound occured. 

I know that there are different manufacturers of these repair kits, so, can any of you recommend the best set? I will then do it all again. No chance of getting the car to a show this weekend now.

Then we come to the Trunnion bushes. I remember these of old, almost impossible to fit and which piece should work as the 'Bearing'. My belief was the the metal bush should rotate within the nylon bushes. Once again I do not trust this to work properly either, it is too tight. Comments please on this too.

[Pete Lewis]

club shop sell a range of UJ to suit use and pockets  

yes the bush crush tube should be gripped by tighening the through bolt so the bush rotates around the  fixed tube   yes they can be tight by hand but on car it 

moves ok as loads and weights are far more than  vice twiddling 

canley classics sell a range of circlip thicknesses to aid end float etc 

Pete

 

[Wagger]

Thanks Pete.

I have 'Tested' the assembly on the bench by trying to force the uj's through 'tother side with circlips in using small half inch drive sockets. They held ok.

When fitted, I usually start the car on axle stands and run it at low speed. That is how I diagnosed the uj. I use a second person in the car & I watch. If I move my hand, they instantly declutch and switch off. Can't afford a rolling road.

I then fit everything and try the car doing moderate take offs fwd and reverse.

Going to re-assemble now.

[Pete Lewis]

it wont be the first time a clip pings out 200yds down the road and it makes a wonderful destructive  racket   

worth a check all circlip ears are spaced the same so you know they are fully seated , it only takes one you feel certain about to pop 

and the smile turns to  tears  

Pete

[Wagger]

In addition to what I did earlier, I made sure that the criclips were in using a punch and compared by attempting to insert another one. They were fully engaged. I also put the diff flange in my large vice and tried to turn the shaft with my 18 in stilsons. 

I drove it up and down the drive, taking off quite briskly. So far so good. Will do the left side next week because I am truly Knackered now! Re assemble was much easier when I was 25. I am 74 next week. Three times the age with one third of the stamina.

My laptop needs attention now, so that's dining table job. Nice change from the garage floor.

 

[Sparky_Spit]

Regarding the rear trunnion "top hat" bush kits; the standard ones supplied by most retailers are dimensionally incorrect and will not fit properly unless they are trimmed down slightly. Easy to do in a lathe if you have one, but even then the dust shields are poorly formed and the whole thing is a bit of a dog's breakfast.  After a tip-off on here, I used Superflex kits and they fit perfectly. More expensive but worth it.

[Wagger]

OK, I did the LH side drive shaft yesterday. The hub puller required over 150lb ft to pop it off, even after the club hammer treatment. I had to dress the end of the drive shaft because it 'Belled out' and the nut would not come off. No permanent damage done. I also discovered two weak wheelnuts (Dodgy threads) as the torque was not increasing beyond about 50lb ft. A gorilla must have tightened the nuts last time.

Takng the hubs off means that the brake backplates can be removed without disconnecting any of the brakes. I tied it to the trailing arm. It almost halves the weight compared to removing the whole assembly, making handling the shaft much easier when fitting the new uj inserts.

Well done to the guys who make the hub puller for the club. It really does work. However, it is best to prevent rotation by placing a stilson on the shaft so that the floor prevents it rotating. Leave the shaft firmly bolted at the diff. Even with the other wheel on the ground and the car in 1st gear, the engine was rotating at 50lb ft on the puller nut. On the RH side I jammed the diff flange with a spanner. This would have broken something on this side, I am sure.

Hope this helps others with arms wilting with age.