gt6chris

What a mess! Some bits may have been painted but not all. Mixture of instruments, some with orange needles some white, air vent hanging out of the dash. I think people hear that prices of GT6's are on the rise and think that any old rubbish is worth a fortune.

Great news John, Never doubted it would pass. It will good to get some miles on it now. Chris

You need to check the PCD. (The distance centre to centre between two opposite stud holes) Triumph is 3 3/4" (95.25mm), a lot of Fords are 108mm and almost everything non ford/peugeot uses 4/100 PCD (4 being the number of studs). Once you have the PCD just advertise them with that. People can then decide for themselves and you have only provided the facts. Chris

Spit, GT6, Herald, Vitesse, Dolomite, TR7 all have 3 3/4" (95.25mm) P.C.D. Various widths and some variation in offset. What is the problem with you wheels? do they fit on the studs? Chris

Most trim available for our cars is produced by Newton Commercials. I think Rimmers offering is made by them as I believe is the trim supplied by the Club Shop. You can buy direct from Newtons but it is often a fair bit cheaper to buy their trim from a reseller. Some of the nicest cars I have seen have been re-trimmed by an independent trimmer not using ready made trim sets. They are very simple so any competent trimmer should have no problem with them. There are a few other companies that supply trim such as Aldridge Trimming. I have only used Newtons products which are well made and a good match for original trim. Chris

Hi John, the car is looking great. I love the strengthening detail on the bonnet around the catches and scuttle edge. Also the wiring. I am just making a new centre section for my GT6 dash and will do as you have and modify the loom with multiplug connections. Have you managed to sort the engine after its unfortunate head failure? Really looking forward to the big start up. regards Chris

Just to resurrect an old thread. I have the Tex wipers on my gt6 and as others have found they are pretty poor at clearing the screen. Having read about the Bosch blades I though I would pick up a pair in Halfords. However they seem to come with a fixed adapter which seems to fit the hook type arms only. Because of this I reluctantly brought the Halfords own version. I have now removed the rubber blade insert from the Halfords wiper and installed it in my Tex wiper and the result is great. Wipers that actually clear the screen. It still misses the curved edge of the screen but clears the vast majority of it swept area really well. I had also got new arms when I restored the car but the hold down springs on these were far weaker than the originals so I cleaned up the originals and used them. Chris

I think any of the CV conversions are a worthwhile modification. There are pro's and cons to all of them. I run Jigsaws set up which I believe uses Audi CV joints. As with the Canley conversion it retains the original bearings so requires shimming (not really much of an issue once you have done it once or twice)Nick Jones' modified upright is definitely the more elegant engineering solution. Canley use a 1500FWD CV joint at one end an a propshaft joint at the other(happy to be corrected). Neither the Volvo CV that Nicks conversion uses or the 1500 cv that Canley use are overly common these days but once sourced should last a long time. My intention is at some time to machine a couple of spare uprights to take a sealed roller bearing as per Nicks conversion and fit that along with my current CV setup. The jigsaw CV conversion fitted without any mods to the car and appears well engineered. I have certainly not noticed any harshness through the transmission and of course most cars have something similar these days (CV connected driveshaft's). I suspect that its more that if you are used to the unusual slightly spongy sensation of the original rotoflex the CV transmission may feel different. Chris

Interesting point. The Rotoflex upright remains fairly vertical throughout its travel whereas the swing spring pivots in an arc around the UJ at the diff end of the driveshaft. My theory would be that the mounting of the Rotoflex Radius arm means that it has less influence on the for/aft movement of the upright. This will keep the geometry more constant which is what Triumph were trying to do with the Rotoflex set up.

Hi John, Really enjoying watching your car come together. I used the same fuse box as you when I rebuilt my GT6 and mounted it in the passenger foot well. They are a clever design and I particularly like the bridge terminals allowing up to 5 fuses to be fed from a single wire. http://www.autosparks.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=1273 Chris

Hi Keith, The radius arms on my GT6 are straight. IE the bolts are 90 degrees to the arm. I thought it was the Vitesse arms that had the angled ends as yours have. So I think you have the right parts. As for he bearing spacers and shims the spacers were available in a few different thicknesses so in theory there may have been a spacer but no shims. A spacer will always be needed and the end float needs to be set so that the whole outer driveshaft assembly can be fully tightened without preloading the bearings. There is no pre load on the rotoflex bearing set up in fact there is a very small amount of end float. I have Jigsaw CV driveshafts on my car which still use the original bearings which required shimming. Nick Jones made (Makes?) a conversion that uses modern sealed bearings in a modified upright which does away with the need for setting end float. I would like to do this sometime on mine - retain the Jigsaw drive shaft but modify the upright to take the modern bearing. I think you can get spacers and shims from: Richard Briscoe (RB Mobile Classics) he had spacers made up in all the sizes for Rotoflex hubs. Richard's contact details:- rbmobileclassics@gmail.com 07766 354449 Regards Chris

Hi Keith, Yes I just got a couple of heavy duty stainless steel washers to fill the gap. They were actually a standard metric size with a thickness of 3mm which makes sense with your dimensions. This has worked fine on my car. I think the M12 on this site are what I used: http://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/A2_Washer_od3nom_M.html Regards Chris Edit - just checked now at home and those are definitely what I fitted to my car.

Rotoflex with cast bosses: Rotoflex requiring spacer washers: Regards Chris

This is what the parts on my car look like - and require extra spacer washers

Hi Keith, There are 2 different styles of rotoflex uprights. One has cast bosses where the lower trunnion bolt passes through and the other needs spacing washers between the link and the wishbone. My car has the less usual style which requires the spacing washers. These are not shown in any of the manuals but certainly exist and I have examples of both styles. Chris

As well as the main door seal there is an additional seal that fits down the side of the windscreen and helps seal the quarter light. There should also be a seal along the sill. The channel for the sill seal is quite often omitted if the sills have been replaced. http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID008139 If water gets in when the car is washed it seems more likely that the water is getting past the window seal and running down the inside of the door as mishmosh suggests. See also: http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1314974754/ Chris

I use a similar set up on my GT6 but with a D type overdrive. It has the Dolomite 20 (?) spline input shaft and matching main shaft which has the larger tip. this is built up with a GT6 gear set. My original box was made up of a variety of dubious parts and a damaged lay gear cluster so I gave it all to Mike Papworth to sort out. Out of all the boxes I have worked on over the years the biggest killer was the main shaft tip wearing out. Chris

Hi Kevin, I stand corrected. Let's just say that the internals of all the small triumph gearboxes are similar, some having synchro on 3 gears, some on all 4. :-)

That's correct Eddie. All the 4 cylinder 3 rail boxes were 3 synchro. 4 synchro being introduced with the single rail. I was thinking of the early 6 cylinder boxes. The Vitesse 1600 was a 3 synchro box whereas I believe all 2 litre boxes are the 4 synchro variety.

May be a typo but Derek's article has got its single and 3 rail boxes confused. He is clearly rebuilding a 3 rail box but the article suggests that it is a single rail box. The single rail has a single selector rail whereas the 3 rail has (you guessed it) 3 selector rails. As Derek says the internals of all the small Triumph boxes are quite similar (not necessarily the same) other than the early boxes with no syncro on first gear. Chris