Mjit
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Posts posted by Mjit
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15 hours ago, AndyTV8 said:
I am almost certain that Peter James (as an individual) was a senior member of the Footman James Company many a moon ago. He then chose to leave and set up his own company which is Peter James the current TSSC insurance panel member
...... Andy
Yep, Peter James set up Footman James, then sold it out ~10 years ago to one of the big insurance companies.
He then set up Peter James then set up the Peter James insurance company basically doing exactly the same thing Footman James used to do.
Think I read on here that he'd sold Peter James a year or two back too? -
On 27/04/2020 at 11:22, Pete Lewis said:
never forget the bedding requirement its simple
2) Following Bedding Procedure for M1144 / M1155 / M1166 initial brake test start with 3 – 4 light applications from 30mph down to 0mph.
After these, follow the steps below according to Material.
M1144: 6 / 7 medium pressure applications 70mph down to 30mphThis is a great theory but I'd question its practicality, unless you happen to own a private road/race track.
1. 3-4 light applications from 30mph down to 0mph. OK, might be able to manage this one, though would have to be careful about what time of day so my road is quiet-enough to do it without someone driving in to me.
2. 6-7 medium pressure applications 70mph down to 30mph. Humm. Well I live in London so no roads near me where 70mph is safe, so looks like I need to drive on old pads to near a motorway, then change the pads at the side of the road. Even then I can't help feeling trying this on the M25 would end up being "6-7 medium pressure applications 70mph down to 30mph, or until an lorry plows in to the back of you at 56mph".
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Not convinced by routing the heater pipe though the clutch pipe expansion loops...
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The Moss parts catalogue might help - https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/media/pdf/SPI2019.pdf
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OK, so Covid19 lockdown is making work for my idle hands, leaving me with a Spitfire dash to revaneer and a pair of dash eyeball vents from my parts 2000...
Do the dash eyball vents just blow cold air on the GT6? From what I can make out from online pics. the basic GT6 heater box is the same as the Spitfire, with the inlet in the middle, inside the fan, which blows air to each side, over the heater matrix, then either to the dash demister vents or footwells based on the position of the big side flaps. The difference seems to be that the GT6 also has a couple of outlets from the middle section of the heater box. These are after the fan but before the heater matrix, so will always blow cold air to the dash and footwell eyeball vents. Is that correct?
As I see it I have 2 options. Copy the GT6 setup, adding a couple of extra outlets to the heater box, or just "Y" the demister outlet, giving me the option of hot air to my dash eyeball vents (and countering the cold right hand when driving in the winter).
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So finally got all the parts delivered and everything back together so just one thing left to do - see if it works...
Fuel system primped using the hand primer on the fuel pump and in to the drivers seat I get with, considering the cars just been sat since October and I lent my battery charger to a friend a few weeks back, very low expectations. Turn the key and after about 3s she starts up! It moves forward in 1st and backwards in reverse but waiting for food supplies to drop before I have an excuse to drive further.
Clutch is still annoying me though. As bought the bite point was right on the floor. Well no gearbox issues now and a new slave cylinder but the natural position is still with the slave cylinder piston at the very end of its travel, so needing 3x plain nuts between the bell housing and the slave cylinder so it actually has somewhere to move when you press the pedal. Can't see any difference in the engine mounting and this is now the same gearbox/operating rod that worked fine on the old car.
Meh! It works
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You CAN remove the head without removing the manifolds but I'd question WHY you'd want to do it that way. Personally I'd just commit to removing the manifolds as you make access to everything a lot easier, the big lump of metal you need to lift off a lot lighter, access to 'persuade' the head to separate from the block better, and the big lump of metal you need to lift off a lot better balanced and easier to handle. I'd also imagine the machine shop will need to stip them off to do any machining work and will the machine shop take loads of photos to ensure they can put it back together correctly, or just give it back to you as a pile of bits and leave you trying to guess...?
I've recently removed/overhauled/refitted (almost) my gearbox and dropped the manfolds for that (snapped an exhaust downpipe stud) and it's reasonably straight forward. Mine's an HS4 car so:
- Split exhaust at manifold/downpipe connection - 3x 3/8" nuts.
- Remove air filters - 3x 5/16" bolts.
- Remove carbs from inlet manifold - 8x 5/16" nuts, 2x 3/8" bolts, throttle and choke cables. Keep a good hold on the carbs as you remove and all the linkages will stay together.
- Remove inlet manifold - 3x 5/16" nuts, (a few) 3/8" nuts (but not the end ones that just hold the exhaust manifold at this point). Lift the inlet manifold free.
- Remove exhaust manifold - either 2x or 4x 3/8" nuts (the end ones and the middle ones if they aren't shared with the inlet manifold - I forget right now). Lift away the exhaist manifold.
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If you fancy some trial-and-error tuning check out https://tecb.eu/onewebmedia/Tuning_SU_Carbs.pdf
Tells you all about SU carbs/the different 'steps' in a SU needle profile and a testing procedure (P11). Basically tuning for idle then testing across the RPM/load range both with and without some choke.
A rolling road (with a good operator who understands SU carbs) will would be better, but also more expensive and possibly less fun if you enjoy tinkering on your own.
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Based on the latest club mag., yep MGF
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So looks like 'hardboard' heat shields are standard, suggesting it's probably asbestos...
Oh, and a note the the PO, those plain bolts with no locking wire... Yea, NOT suitable for use in the steering rubber coupling. One has rattled almost completely out! 😳
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Sounds to me like the lock barrel is on its last legs, but its 50 years old.
As Clive said it could just be dry and a little WD40 lubrication could keep it going - but remember sods law states it will finally die when you're out and jump in the car to drive HOME from a trip, not when you start it earlier in the day. As there isn't much driving to be done at the moment I'd recommend going ahead and replacing.
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Getting a second pair of hands not an option at the moment with social distancing!
Anyway, at least the locking wire arrived today so I can tick the last item of the gearbox overhaul list and get some refitting done on the long weekend.
No sign of the Witor order yet though (mainly exhaust gaskets, etc) which will stop completion, but manged to get the manifolds off during my lunch break so have a whole new set of jobs to do. The inlet manifold water outlet pipe has rusted through on the driver but doesn't leak...because the inlet pipe is completely bunged up with crap! Oh and the carb heat shields...are made of thin hardboard...
One step forward, at least two steps back.
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Yea, made up a length of wood with a cut-out for the jack pad on one side and a hole for the drain plug/two piles of packers screwed on at different positions to set things at the correct angle, then a couple of rachet straps to hold it in position.
Only problem is it's too tall to roll in/out under the car with the box on. Option one is 'reversal of removal', or strapping it to the wood, sliding it under the car, then trying to roll it up and on to the jack. Option two is to try juggling lifting the engine on its supporting bottle jack/the car on my proper jack to get the axle stands up a peg.
Think it will have to be option two, maybe with a wood block made up to stop the engine pressing on the bulkhead brake pipes added to the mix. Option one has me dropping a gearbox on my arm under the car written all over it
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For me:
3 looks too big and bulky for a petite car like a GT6.
4 is a bit angular for a curvery Mk1/2 GT6, though might work on a more angular Mk3.
1 looks good, having more of a flow to it, like the car body. Think it might need something in the middle section though to stop it looking like a wide mouthed Bass.
6 also looks good and, provided the lines flow like the rest of the body rather then being too sharp. Looks like you have a central 'pillar' in this one too, so no fish look.
5 slack-jawed window licker in the middle, but the corner lines flow really nicely. Or is it just the sketch making it look like a really big, really deep 'mouth'?
2 nice...on a Mk3. -
Given how much of a ball-ache, largely working blind with 18ft of socket extension bar getting some of the gearbox bellhousing bolt OUT was I'm really not looking forward to getting them back in! I'm really dreading trying to get those very top nuts to take the threads...
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I only tend to change the diff. oil when buying a 'new' car. It could be fresh. It could be the oil it left the factory with. It could be GL5. It could be 50% oil/50% sawdust. The fact it only took a cup of oil to top it up could be because it's only lost a cup in 40 years...or in the 40 miles between a pre-collection top-up and getting the car home.
I now KNOW it's fresh EP90/GL4 oil and is starting its life with me at the top of the filler plug.
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I've got one of these - https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cgg500-500cc-oil-suction-gun/
Certainly used it to suck the old oil out of a big saloon diff but have a feeling the tube might be a bit big and stiff for the smaller diffs. Should be bodgable though with some smaller diameter, flexible plastic tubing and some duct tape.
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Well that was, umm, 'fun'.
Ended up having to get the Dremel out and, really carefully, grind through the side of the seal's metal cup till it was paper thin and I could start working a penknife blade behind it. Eventually it started turning inside the nose piece and from there popped out just dandy with the seal puller.
Now just waiting for some locking wire to come through the post to complete the gearbox...but have an exhaust manifold swap to look forward to in the mean time. Dropping the exhaust to remove the gearbox on the parts car all three manifold/down pipe nuts came off just fine. Doing the same on the good one...two nuts and one snapped stud 😞
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Had TSSC ones on my Spitfire for a good number of years too. I find you need to flip the catch, then give it a little tug each side, but mainly to free the bonnet cone. After that easy to lift single-handed from either side.
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AAAAaaahhhh!!!!!
OK, anyone got any tips on removing the oil seal from the big saloon (Stag/TR6) gearbox nose extension?
I'm swapping gearboxes from my parts car to my driver with a rebuild on the way through and just stuck with the nose extension oil seal. The one in the spare gearbox shows no signs of moving anywhere. There's a bit of rust inside the clutch release bearing tube so maybe that's got to the seal and rusted in place, so I tried the one in the being-replaced gearbox... No rust inside the tube on that one but, like the first all I can do is mangle the flat-side lip. The circular section sat in the bore shows no signs of movement what so ever.
Is there a trick to removing these?
Oh and yes, of course the clutch release fork pin snapped on this one too.
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@yourkshire_spam - the secret, just Top Gear is to record it. You can then just fast-forward through the 'Tim sneaks in to part supplier who didn't know he was coming and pulls a fast one (despite the place being full of camera and production crew)', 'Lets play a practical joke on X', and 'Here's a fun was to give the car back' (or for Top Gear the 'Car in a reasonably priced car') segments and just watch the good bits.
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Can't say I'd ever describe my stainless bumpers are being thin.
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I've got a set of Harrington bumpers on my Mk IV and very happy with them.
Look:
Park next to a Spitfire with freshly rechromed bumpers and yes, you can see the difference (the chrome gives a much more mirror finish). Park next to one with slightly older chrome bumpers though and the SS ones look as good if not better.If you own your car to polish it, go chrome. If you own your car to drive it, so stainless.
Fit:
I needed quite a few washers to fill the gap between car and bumper mounting and to slightly elongate one of the body holes at the rear to get the holes to align BUT I wouldn;t like to say how much that's down to the bumper being wrong and how much is down to my car not being quite the same shape it was when it left the factory 47 years ago!Oh, and they use a really odd thread for the captive nuts in the bumper that didn't seem to match the supplied bag of bolts. Sorted with a trip to eBay.
I'm only in SE London so, once we're aloud to socialise again, you're welcome to see them.
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21 hours ago, Graham C said:
...and interesting a random nose bleed
Actually nose bleeds are turning out to be a not uncommon symptom, just much less common than/developing later than the most common feaver/dry cough ones so not widely listed (as That would just mean the window lickers of the world would go "I've got a feaver and cough but no nose bleed so it can't be Covid-19 and I'm OK to (go out and spread the virus)."
GT6 Diff oil
in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
Posted
Humm, if you're swapping the drive shafts how far have you gone stripping things down?
I'd guess there's not much extra you need to unbolt between where you are and dropping the whole diff out the car. Changing the diff. oil's then just a case of turning it upside down and letting it pour out the spring stud holes.