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Steve P

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Posts posted by Steve P

  1. I did the CV conversion on my MK 1 Vitesse after shedding a rear wheel with the brake drum etc still attached,as Clive says its basically converting to Rotoflex and then fitting the CV shafts instead of the roto doughnut shafts.

     

    You have to weld the chassis brackets on for the bottom wishbone mounts and drill the rear out rigger as the adjustable tie bars sit further inboard.

     

    Also the handbrake cable mounts are on the body for Roto cars and on the chassis for non rot,the handbrake adjustment needs careful setup as the brakes can bind as the suspension moves up and down if not done right.

     

    I did it because i didn`t want the shafts snapping again but this was a Vitesse with a 2.5 tuned engine in it.

     

    My Herald still has the standard setup albeit with 5.5J steelies.

     

    If your only concern is hop and skip then i would address that with spring/shock/setup first.

    Cheers

    Steve

  2. Tried to order a red rotor and new cap today,online got to the last stage of payment and then gave an error and please try later message.

     

    Tried to call the office at 3 ish,both options tried for shop and general enquiries,just an annoying tone for ages,no sorry your waiting ,no divert to another person.

     

    I like to support the club shop but in the end i have given up and got it from the Distributor doctor.

    Steve

  3. I have a Vitesse with a 2.5 PI engine and HS6 carbs.

    With some head work,a decent manifold and being properly built it produced 172BHP at 5800Rpm on the rollers,its a really strong engine.It has a TR5 cam and a CR of 10:1.Its also not bad on fuel.

     

    I fitted a saloon box and J type o/d along with a 3.27 diff with Jones/Bowler CV shafts.

     

    To source a cam try Newmans in Bromley,they will do any grind for you.

     

    Currently using a standard Vitesse distributor with no advance(it pinks too much)I plan to fit a 123 Tune soon.

    Runs exclusively on Shell V Power fuel btw.

    Steve

     

    Clive beat me to it there,also the lumpy idle thing isnt true for mine,it will sit smoothly at 800rpm and pull from low revs no problem.

  4. What was the black blob you found?was it gasket sealer or oil residue/gunk?

    from what you say it does sound like blockages somewhere,i wonder if whoever put it together used sealer everywhere and created more blobs where they shouldn`t be?

     

    What oil are you using? the pressure in my rebuilt engine is 30psi hot idle and 60-70 psi at 2.5k revs hot,thats using Valvoline VR-1 20/w50.

     

    Also i used to have a Pheonix 6-3-1 with heat shields to protect the carbs,i now managed to find an original MIke Randall manifold,thats mild steel and not wrapped,even  hot persistent idling doesnt cause fuel vapourisation.

     

    If it was mine i would take the gallery plugs out and whizz the pump with a drill down below the dizzy drive to check the flow everywhere.either that or bite the bullet and take it out and strip it.

    Good Luck

    Steve

  5. Dont know if a 9 inch fan is sufficient,i have a Spal 11 inch sucker mounted on the rear of the rad on my 2.5 Vitesse.The rad is aluminium though.

     

    It does suffer from under bonnet heat when sitting though so i fitted a manual switch in the cabin as well so i can turn it on before the thermo switch kicks in.

    You can see it in my avatar pic.

    Steve

  6. I had an Accuspark kit on a Delco 4 dizzy which i think is what you should have on that engine.The rotor arm didn`t sit high enough on the spindle and hit the electronic ignition module every time it went round until it died.

     

    I had to replace it and modify it.

    Is yours a mechanical engine knock or plasticky?

    Steve

  7. I converted my MK 1 Vitesse non roto to the Jones/Bowler version ater snapping a shaft near the hub end.I didn`t have the facilities to build up a kit so asked Nick to give me it complete ready to bolt on.

     

    All i had to do was weld on the chassis brackets for the lower wishbones and relocate the tie bars further in the outrigger

    .

    I feel much more confident in the rear end durability now(even with a 2.5 engine and 3.27 diff).

    Nicks very helpful.

    Steve

  8. Dont know who your cam supplier was or if it was the same people that did the head work,i`m surprised they wouldn`t have worked out the optimal compression to work with the cam..on my Vitesse i had it worked to give 10:1 with a TR5 cam.

     

    You need to work out the chamber volume required to give the ratio you want, and then get it skimmed to give you the correct chamber volume.My Herald has a TLD 244r cam with a CR of 10.2:1.That was 33CC`s per chamber iirc.

     

    By the way my Vitesse runs on with anything other than 99 octane in it.It showed 172bhp on the rolling road though,with a standard Vitesse dizzy with no advance.Thats the next thing to sort.

    Steve

  9. I had a similar issue on the recent round Britain run in my 13/60.

     

    It was losing power and running on three when the engine was on the most load,i knew the fuel system was drawing in air from somewhere because i could see bubbles in the filter,ended up changing all the rubber pipes.

     

    Of course it was the last one that fixed the problem(the short one under the car along the chassis where two metal ones join).

     

    Steve

  10. Diff ratio won`t give you anymore torque or grunt,the shorter the diff, i.e Triumphs shortest 4:11-1 will make the engine rev higher to reach the equivalent speed of a setup with say a 3:89 or 3:63.

     

    It may accelerate faster but it will run out of revs quicker with a short diff.

     

    I am intrigued to know what ratios you have,i was playing with the Mintylamb calculator,see:

    .http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/gearspeed/

     

    Even with a Standard overdrive box and a 4:11 diff 80mph is only 3900 revs.I wonder if something is slipping?

     

    Unless you have 10 inch wheels i`m baffled.

    Steve

  11. I always take my diffs/boxes etc. to Mike papworth,he will do any other work you want as well if you would rather have it done all in one shop.

     

    If the carbs are off its no biggy to have the head off to check the valves-convert to run on unleaded (if it hasn`t already)mines run on 99 Octane without additives for years and is fine.

     

    He`ll even pick it up if you cant get it there.

     

    No i`m not on commission,just satisfied that he`s honest about whats wrong and a good bloke aswell.

    Cheers

    Steve

  12. My two penny worth,

     

    Think about what you want from the engine,a standard smooth running well set up 2 litre is a great unit.60 mph at 5k revs certainly sounds like too short a diff.

     

    Lack of horses could be anything from worn carbs,split diaphragms(carbs)timing etc.

     

    Nothing wrong with Strombergs if they are set up properly,SU`s wont give you any more power without other mods.

     

    Stage 2.....what does that mean????

     

    If the engine has good oil pressure and compression i see it as pointless rebuilding it and certainly not adding go faster goodies at great expense for very little gain.

     

    If it was me i would take it to a club meet and let someone who owns one look over it,i would be getting the carbs rebuilt,gearbox and diff sorted before i committed £££ to mythical tuning options.

     

    Unless thats what you want of course,your car-your choice,just trying to save you some cash.This isn`t a sleight at Jigsaw or any other supplier,i would just check out what you have is sorted first.

     

    Steve

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