Robin
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Posts posted by Robin
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Great - thanks Richard and Clive.
Clive - what do you mean by 'cut' the top coat prior to polish?
Robin
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Hi Bivvyman,
As Richard says, an alternator is advisable if you're going to fit aftermarket electrical gadgets, and particularly seat heaters. Fitting an alternator is a relatively straightforward mod and has, I am sure, been covered in this forum, and if not, definitely in a back issue of the Courier.
As for the use of the seat heaters, I have found them to be of huge benefit for top-down motoring. They warm up almost instantly - far quicker than the car's own heater. I use them quite a lot, particularly early mornings (as I'm currently using the Vitesse for work) and late evenings. I would even go so far as to say that they make the car more usable; I have done a few trips in the Vitesse that I otherwise wouldn't have, had it not been for the heated seats. Each to their own - I have heard some people say they can't stand them. But on a cold winter's morning...
The ones I fitted were Waeco. I bought them on Ebay. Mine have a simple on/off switch but now I see you can get versions with a number of different temperature settings. Personally I would avoid ones with more than two settings, as I know I'd be forever fiddling with them. I used Mazda RX7 switches (also eBay) as the ones that came in the kit weren't that nice.
Let us know how you get on.
Tom
Hi Tom - So, I assume I don't need to find dedicated mgf seat elements? How easy are the Waeco ones to fit?
Thanks
Robin
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I asked a question about paint removal in a previous thread and this led to some answers about spraying so I just wanted to bring this together in a new thread - hope that's OK. Thanks to everyone who gave advice and so my understanding is as follows with regards to spraying a replacement door for my Mk2 Vitesse (I'm planning on using cellulose aerosols)
1. Sand existing paint back to bare metal using poly strip sanding discs attached to either a drill or angle grinder.
2. Fill any imperfections and sand
3. Spay a few coats of etch primer. Does this need sanding between coats?
4. Spray a couple of coats of High Build Primer and flatten back. Do I use 600 wet and dry for this?
5. Spay thin coats of cellulose top coat to gradually build up the layers - about 5 coats in total. Do I flatten between coats using 600 wet and dry?
6. Apply final top coat and leave to dry. How long for and does anything else need to happen to the final coat or is that it?
Have I understood this correctly or am I missing something?
Many thanks again
Robin
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Really pleased with the seats - think they really suit the Vitesse.
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Robin , there's a old moral ...ask first someone somewhere has always managed to get a Tee shirt the hard way
we've all been there as we accumulate experience's
classics and twiddling can be a costly hobby when the plan goes bottoms up Ha !
happy days Pete
Hi Pete
Yep - think I should have learnt by now. Problem was that I was travelling back down from Scotland and had spoken to Mick Dolphin in Leicester so it was convenient to pick it up on my way through. Didn't even occur to me that the sender unit might be different - but I do now!
Robin
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Hi Robin
I am a long way north of you here in Liverpool, and the company I used was D&T Radiators, Regent Road, L3, in Liverpool's docklands, who were discovered by Stuart Rimmer, one of our regulars at Triumph Liverpool meetings. A little, old fashioned workshop who give good service and know what they are about.
To return to your problem, Pete (as so often) is dead right. You cannot mix and match senders and gauges, and this is exactly why I ended up removing a perfectly good Vitesse tank, which I had sand blasted, cleaned out and sealed, before painting it in nice shiny black and fitting a new instruction transfer! When I found out the hard way that its locking ring type sender would not operate my lovely original Jaeger speedo, I had to consign it to the loft, and go to Spitfire Graveyard over in Sheffield to get the correct six hole tank and sender, and have it repaired as described earlier. In short, costly lesson learned at the University of Sod...
The six hole tanks are not that easy to find, so if you have a sound one, it has a value to somebody. If I lived nearer I would suggest a swap.
Good luck in sorting it, you will get there!
Regards
Steve C
Hi Steve
Yep - learning the hard way is getting to be expensive. If I could arrange collection would you be willing to sell your loft bound tank?
Cheers
Robin
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Robin you could have trouble here, the 6 hole fixing float is generally for the non stabilised gauges and
has a very different calibtation to the stabilised gauge senders
if you have a meter check the resistance from Full half and empty, compare the orig with the replacement
or connect the replacement sender into the harness and see what it does with the gauge reading ,
the old and newer designs cannot be intermixed.
pete
Thanks Pete - glad I asked the question. Looks like I've made a bad buy!
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the bayonet ring just taps round to allow removal, look at the flat sealing ring , if its sound re use if its grooved get a new one
there's a good chance the old one will be better fuel proof rubber than some of the crap rubber ones available these days
ive seen replacement dissolve in a months use they go all soggy and deformed ....not fuel proofed
Pete
Hi Pete - the sender unit on the replacement tank is held in by six screws so maybe this is an early vitessse tank?
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For my part, I have used both the Frost products route and the radiator specialist route.
On the former, a handful of bolts and their cleaning compound worked well, but remember to remove the fuel tank sender to avoid damaging it, or gumming it up when you apply the tank sealant stage. I had no subsequent problems with the sealant degrading with the high ethanol fuels we seem to have had foisted upon us. I still have that (Vitesse) tank in the loft, complete with new fuel gauge sender unit and instruction label.
Of the two approaches however, the radiator specialist was by far the best. They steam-cleaned the tank, cut off and welded up the heavily-pitted drain tube, pressure-tested and painted the tank for £35 - a bargain. That one is still in the car.
Regards
Steve C
Hi Steve
Where are the rad specialists you used?
Thanks
Robin
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Quick update - managed to get a second hand tank which looks in pretty good condition. There's a small trace of white spirit in the bottom so I guess someone has tried cleaning it? Think I need to remove the sender unit to get a better look inside - are there any problems in taking this out?
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Hi Robin,
That's great to hear. Any photos?
Tom
Hi Tom
Will post some pic soon
Robin
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Hi Again
Can anyone suggest the best way of cleaning a used tank? Is it just a question of sloshing some petrol around it to clear any debris or is there a better method?
Thanks
Robin
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Hi Richard
Sounds good - will get some 5mm bars made up and give it a go
Once again thanks for explaining
Robin
Robin.
The shape of the Vitesse / Herald floor pan allows (by luck) for this bar to move freely without snagging. However, on the Alpine I had to use 30x10 flat bar and raise it by another 5mm so that the MGF rigidity bar cleared the floor design.
If I remember correctly the rigidity bar is proud by 12mm; hence the requirement for a 15mm rise.
Of course for the Vitesse conversion you only need 30x5 flat bar; as per the design document.
Hope that assists ??
Regards.
Richard.
Hi Richard - finally got round to fitting the mgf seats - followed your advice and they fitted perfectly. Really pleased with them. Thanks, Robin
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Thanks to everyone for all the advice
Robin
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One more question ...
Just passed the MOT yesterday but the tester said the the rear offside brake was slightly low on pressure - possibly a sticking brake cylinder.
As I've got to drain the brake fluid - is it worth replacing the rear brake cylinders at the same time? If so is it a straightforward job?
Thanks again
Robin
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Robin.
The sequence Doug has given is correct for 90% of other vehicles which includes the Vitesse.
My mentioning the bleeding of the 2x front calipers first is to purely give you the advantage of getting rid of air that is between the m/c and the front calipers nothing more than that. As you are removing the m/c that is where the air will enter first.
When you have bleed them and locked off THEN start the correct sequence as in the WSM and as Doug describes.
My apologies if I did not word it accurately first time around.
If you do not want to bleed the calipers first, then commence the normal bleeding sequence.
As Doug says, a litre should be sufficient.
Hope that helps and explains better ?? !!
Regards.
Richard.
Great - thanks
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Agree with Aidan. I use this system but still have someone pressing the pedal while I work the nipples and keep an eye on the m/c fluid level which does drop quicker than you would expect !! The benefit of an extra pair of hands is that the assistant can hold the pedal down while you lock off the nipple.
As you are removing the m/c, when you come to bleed the system start with the front brakes first. Once you have cleared the air in the front section refer to the normal bleeding sequence for your car.
The rationale behind this is that if you start at the rears you will be pulling the air through the length of the system, ideally you want to discard air closest to the m/c as soon as possible. It speeds up the bleeding sequence considerably.
Of course if you need to remove a rear cylinder then the above advice is no longer applicable !!
Regards.
Richard.
Hi Richard, so in terms of the bleeding sequence I'm assuming it's the following;
Offside front, nearside front, nearside rear, offside rear?
Also, how much fluid do you think I'll need?
Robin
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Great - thanks everyone
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Thanks Richard & Aiden
Can you recommend a one person brake bleeding kit?
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Looks like I've got a very small drip coming out of the master cylinder which I'm assuming means checking/replacing a seal. Is it possible to do this without having to drain/ replace all the fluid and then bleeding the system? Thanks, Robin
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Hi Pete
Thanks for the tip
When you say dribbling out of the filler do you mean out past the locking petrol cap and down the filler neck? I've just noticed that the rubber grommet than seals the neck to the wing is loose so I guess if fuel is coming out past the filler cap it might trickle down into the boot. I've also noticed that the paint on the fuel tank around the filler neck is damp so will investigate further.
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Great - thanks Darren
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Thanks Steve & Darren
I'm pretty sure the problem is up towards the filler pipe ( facing the inner wing) - would the Frost tank sealant kit work there?
A new tank from Rimmers is £270!!
Robin
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I've noticed recently a strong smell of petrol when I fill up and have just found a pool of fuel underneath the tank. I can't see a leak but I think it must be coming from near to the filler pipe as it only happens on a full tank. I obviously need to take the tank out for a proper check but is it possible to seal a leak or does it mean a new tank? If so, where's the best place to get one? Thanks, Robin
Correct way to spray a door or panel
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
Thanks Clive. Out of interest what happens if you don't cut back the final top coat but just apply polish?