Robin

February 23, 2017

Hello Robin.

Please see attched. If you need any other photo angles or dimensions let me know.

For some reason Windows 10 reverts the photos taken vertically back to horizontal plane, hence a couple on their side - sorry !!

All the best.

Richard.

Thanks Richard - will let you know how I get on

February 22, 2017

Hello Robin.

As agreed, photo of the catches and latches in situ; hope it assists.

Regards.

Richard.

Thanks Richard - does the top of the catch sit parallel to the door ridge above it? From the photo it looks like the catch is slightly tilted upwards. Also does the catch fit snugly into the holder on the B post or is there some movement?

February 20, 2017

You can fit this with tank installed it can be a bit tight to get the flip through the hole a llose tank may help depends if filler tube is central in thebhole in the wing

but some poke and prod will get it located use some soft soap to aid the fitting

pete

Thanks Pete

February 20, 2017

Robin.

Will a photo assist ?? I have a Vitesse CV.

Regards.

Richard.

That would be really useful - thanks Richard

February 20, 2017

The carcass is the same,i did the same to my Vitesse which got saloon doors in the eighties when you were still allowed to climb piles of cars in scrapyards(2 perfect doors for £20!),I might be able to get some measurements for you this week from my Herald CV.

Steve

That would be great - thanks Steve

February 20, 2017

Had a feeling there are some tooling dimples in the carcass for the position

or is that one of them dreams

pete

Had a look at the doors but couldn't see any obvious markings - will take another look

February 20, 2017

Hello

I've got saloon doors fitted to my convertible and I'd like to fit anti-burst catches. The B posts already have the holes drilled but I can't work out the position for the doors. Does anyone have the dimensions or a template?

Thanks

Robin

February 20, 2017

Apologies if this is a dumb question but I need to replace the fuel filler seal - can I do this with the tank in place or does it have to come out in order to fit the seal around the filler neck?

Also is there a correct way of positioning the seal?

Thanks

Robin

January 27, 2017

Thanks Darren & Ben

Think I'll try removing the rivets first and see how I get on

January 27, 2017

I need to pull out a small dent in the rear bumper - can I remove the rear valance with the bumper attached without taking off the bumper overriders? Getting to the nuts by the fuel tank seems pretty impossible without removing the tank.

Also, in order to remove the bumper from the valance it looks as though you need to cut off the rivets. How do you then re-rivet it back on? I don't have a rivet gun so what type do I need to buy?

Thanks

January 23, 2017

They were available some years back; from the colour of the protective coating on this pair I have I'd suggest Chic Doig can probably make and supply them.

Thanks Colin - I take it you don't want to sell the ones you have - especially the drivers side?

January 23, 2017

Thanks Darren - thought as much

January 22, 2017

Part of the boot channel (between the rubber seal and the rear wing) on my Vitesse will need some attention at some point - I can't seem find this as a replacement part anywhere so I'm assuming I'd have to get a piece made up?

Thanks

Robin

January 20, 2017

1500 if a bit orange peely, then 2000 grade. Then a bit of polish (G3 or similar) then wax.....

Using old fashioned bar of soap on the wet+dry soften the effect a little if required.

Thanks Clive

January 20, 2017

Getting it perfect out of the gun is very tricky, flatting and polishing will remove orange peel and any dirt that's landed in the paint, it makes for a better end result.

Thanks Darren

So I flatten back with a fine grit paper and then polish?

January 20, 2017

I posted a question last year about spraying panels using cellulose paint and got some really good advice - thanks!

I'm hoping to spray a door panel once the warmer weather arrives but one question I have is about flattening the top coat. Why do you need to do this and what happens if you just leave the final coat un-flattened? I'm sure there's a good reason so it would be really helpful to know.

Thanks again

Robin

September 5, 2016

Robin.

Thin wall wire carries a high amperage so for example 1.0mm2 cross section is capable of up to 16.5amps.

However in your case 0.5mm2 is fine as it can handle up to 11amps - more than sufficient for your rear lamps.

I have searched and included a link from ALM via Ebay for your assistance:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0-5mm-12V-24V-Automotive-Marine-Auto-Cable-11Amp-Thinwall-All-Colours-Lengths-/321323682498?var=510232441704&hash=item4ad0624ac2:m:mPXgugvE_7fCfAE5jhpE1nA

Personally I prefer the old style bullet and black rubber insulators. The bullets can be soldered once the wire is inserted, if required, and these items keep the era of the car correct.

Again here is a useful link showing the items as an example only, there are plenty of sellers on Ebay - just ensure you get the brass bullets:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-7mm-Lucas-style-Brass-Bullet-Male-Connectors-Sockets-Female-Pk-of-35-/301390875277?hash=item462c4bca8d:g:~nQAAOSwuMFUY21l

I tend to buy packs of bullets, single & double connectors via Ebay, not had a problem yet. That has done it !!!!!!!

Hope the above assists ??

Regards.

Richard.

Hi Richard - thanks for the info. Out of interest do you know what the indicator lamps draw in terms of amps?

September 5, 2016

Thanks both - what amp rating should I look for and are bullet connectors ok or would spades be better?

September 4, 2016

Hi All

I need to replace the green/red stripe left hand rear indicator cable in the wiring loom - does anyone know a supplier where I can buy a couple of meters?

Thanks

Robin

August 28, 2016

I'm planning to remove the window / door mechanism from my passenger door and fit it to a new door. I've looked at the manual and it looks as though it might be quite tricky. Has anyone done it and if so was it straightforward? Thanks, Robin

August 16, 2016

Fitted some new 7/16 bolts which seems to have done the trick - closer inspection of the old bolts revealed stripped thread at the head end.

August 2, 2016

Pete - meant new 5/8 (7/16) bolts

August 2, 2016

Hi Pete

Think the 5/16 unf must be the originals

Will try new 3/8 bolts and see if that works - if not may think about the nut idea but I'm a bit nervous about cutting large enough holes in the A post without weakening it. I'm planning to fit a new door at some point so need the hinges to be adjustable.

More fun!

Robin

August 2, 2016

Sorry - one more question

is there a way of relating the spanner size to the bolt i.e. If a 1/2 spanner fits the bolt head how does that relate to the bolt diameter?

Robin

August 2, 2016

Hi All

Thanks for the advice so far

I've had a closer look a the bolts holding the brackets to the A post on the passenger door and here's what I've found..

Top Hinge: The top bolt takes a 5/8 spanner and looks to have a 10mm shank diameter and doesn't tighten (maybe a stripped thread?). The middle bolt is the same and doesn't tighten. The bottom bolt takes a 9/16 spanner - don't know the shank diameter but this tightens so is OK.

Bottom Hinge: Top bolt takes 1/2 spanner and tightens - so OK. Middle bolt takes is also 1/2 but doesn't tighten and when I try and undo it it just turns without coming out. The bottoms bolt takes a 9/16 spanner and is tight so I haven't tried to take this one out.

So my thinking is to replace the 5/8 bolts with new ones just to see if the new thread tightens but of it doesn't can these be tapped any larger?

With regards to the 1/2 bolt that just turns - do I have to drill this out or is there a better way?

Robin

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